Mynock
New Hunter
LOL! Thanks, man. Hope you spend as much time staring at the actual helmet
once you have it in hand.
When I get my hands on it, the only staring that will be happening will be through the visor outward
!
Superjedi's FP Budget ESB for Mynock
- Thread starter superjedi
- Start date
When I get my hands on it, the only staring that will be happening will be through the visor outward
!
superjedi
Sr Hunter
Thanks again. I wonder if Mynock will put it on and never take it off again!
UPDATE: July 11, 2014
Smaller update today. Did the small area around/above the turn signals, and filled in the dent
with silver. Also did the physical scratches around this section.
I like to have a good amount of time when working on the dent/streak, so I left
that for tomorrow. I'm hoping to get that finished as well as the big scrape on
top of the dome. Then it'll be on to killstripes.
I wonder if Mynock will put it on and never take it off again!UPDATE: July 11, 2014
Smaller update today. Did the small area around/above the turn signals, and filled in the dent
with silver. Also did the physical scratches around this section.
I like to have a good amount of time when working on the dent/streak, so I left
that for tomorrow. I'm hoping to get that finished as well as the big scrape on
top of the dome. Then it'll be on to killstripes.
superjedi
Sr Hunter
UPDATE: July 12, 2014
Dentage! This is another fun area to do. It's probably the most recognizable
feature of the helmet, and there's lots of small detail intermingled within and around the dent.
It's hard to photograph without glare since it curves around a good portion of the dome, so
here are 2 different angles.
I got started on the big scrape, but I had to take a break. I'll finish it tomorrow and then
I'll cut the physical damage into the cheeks/mandibles and paint the outer cheeks.
Dentage!
This is another fun area to do. It's probably the most recognizablefeature of the helmet, and there's lots of small detail intermingled within and around the dent.
It's hard to photograph without glare since it curves around a good portion of the dome, so
here are 2 different angles.
I got started on the big scrape, but I had to take a break.
I'll finish it tomorrow and thenI'll cut the physical damage into the cheeks/mandibles and paint the outer cheeks.
Mynock
New Hunter
The dent is one of my favourite parts on the whole helmet. Looks terrific!
How do you find the difference between the budget kit and the other lids you have painted? Would you say having the ears molded on is more challenging to paint, or less? Any notable size difference between this helmet and others you have worked on that would affect the positioning of major detail elements etc?
How do you find the difference between the budget kit and the other lids you have painted? Would you say having the ears molded on is more challenging to paint, or less? Any notable size difference between this helmet and others you have worked on that would affect the positioning of major detail elements etc?
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superjedi
Sr Hunter
For the ear question, it's basically a bit of extra masking when I do the red color on the mandibles.
As you've noticed, the left ear is already painted. I use the same color on it as I do on the dome/cheeks.
But before doing the weathering on the dome/cheeks, I masked off the left ear so the color remains "pure."
Just before I airbrush the mandible color, I'll mask everything off and apply the beige color on the RF ear.
On the ears-on helmets, I just find it's easier to mask off the ears than it is to mask around the ears.
The budget kit (same as the premium, only with ears-on) is a great helmet. It's larger than the GMH, but
most size differences between different helmets are relatively small. Unless you're comparing something
like an MSH2 with the GMH. Then the size difference is pretty large!
When I do my stencils, I adjust them based on whatever helmet I'm working on. Since some of the damage
areas on the ESB are stand-alone areas, if there are a few millimeters difference between the helmets, I
don't generally alter my stencils. However in other areas, the size difference certainly plays a part in the
proportion and position of the damage. One example is on the right mandible. I couldn't use my GMH stencil
for the Budget/Premium helmet, because the size difference would be pretty noticeable, and the positions
of the damage areas would be off.
Another example is the dent/streak. I have separate stencils for this area for the GMH and the Budget/Premium
kits. The streak stretches over such a large curve of the dome, this requires that the overall scale of the
stencil be increased to match the larger surface of the Budget/Premium helmet. Again, it's not a huge
difference, but it would certainly be noticeable.
I have a few commissions lined up for the FPH2. I still haven't had one of these in hand, and whenever I
receive the first one, I'll do some measurements, compare them to my existing stencils, and see what needs
to be tweaked size-wise for that particular helmet.
But the smallest helmet that I've ever painted was a 1/4 scale replacement for the Sideshow Premium Format
Fett statue. Natty15d did an amazing sculpt that looks so much better than the helmet that came on the
figure! That was really fun to do, and I used my "standard" ESB color palette on it. Here it is.
No stencils for that little guy!
As you've noticed, the left ear is already painted. I use the same color on it as I do on the dome/cheeks.
But before doing the weathering on the dome/cheeks, I masked off the left ear so the color remains "pure."
Just before I airbrush the mandible color, I'll mask everything off and apply the beige color on the RF ear.
On the ears-on helmets, I just find it's easier to mask off the ears than it is to mask around the ears.
The budget kit (same as the premium, only with ears-on) is a great helmet. It's larger than the GMH, but
most size differences between different helmets are relatively small. Unless you're comparing something
like an MSH2 with the GMH. Then the size difference is pretty large!
When I do my stencils, I adjust them based on whatever helmet I'm working on. Since some of the damage
areas on the ESB are stand-alone areas, if there are a few millimeters difference between the helmets, I
don't generally alter my stencils. However in other areas, the size difference certainly plays a part in the
proportion and position of the damage. One example is on the right mandible. I couldn't use my GMH stencil
for the Budget/Premium helmet, because the size difference would be pretty noticeable, and the positions
of the damage areas would be off.
Another example is the dent/streak. I have separate stencils for this area for the GMH and the Budget/Premium
kits. The streak stretches over such a large curve of the dome, this requires that the overall scale of the
stencil be increased to match the larger surface of the Budget/Premium helmet. Again, it's not a huge
difference, but it would certainly be noticeable.
I have a few commissions lined up for the FPH2. I still haven't had one of these in hand, and whenever I
receive the first one, I'll do some measurements, compare them to my existing stencils, and see what needs
to be tweaked size-wise for that particular helmet.
But the smallest helmet that I've ever painted was a 1/4 scale replacement for the Sideshow Premium Format
Fett statue. Natty15d did an amazing sculpt that looks so much better than the helmet that came on the
figure! That was really fun to do, and I used my "standard" ESB color palette on it. Here it is.
No stencils for that little guy!
superjedi
Sr Hunter
Yeah, that little helmet was fun to do. Very challenging!
UPDATE: July 13, 2014
Whew! Got a lot done this weekend. Finished the big scrape in about 3 sessions.
Also got the upper cheeks painted, and did the detailing on the right cheek. As you can see
in the pic below, the Borden has been base coated with silver as a sort of primer. I'll go over
this with a brass color, then weather it with a couple of light washes.
The nicks on the mandibles are the physical damage that I did with an X-acto blade.
It's starting to look Fett-ish now.
UPDATE: July 13, 2014
Whew! Got a lot done this weekend. Finished the big scrape in about 3 sessions.
Also got the upper cheeks painted, and did the detailing on the right cheek. As you can see
in the pic below, the Borden has been base coated with silver as a sort of primer. I'll go over
this with a brass color, then weather it with a couple of light washes.
The nicks on the mandibles are the physical damage that I did with an X-acto blade.
It's starting to look Fett-ish now.
superjedi
Sr Hunter
UPDATE: July 15, 2014
Less time to work during the week, so smaller updates.
Got the left cheek done. This is another of my favorite areas. The gray damage on
the inner cheek is so angular looking compared to other parts of the helmet. Plus it has
that strange darker greenish-gray color along the outer edge.
This brings me to the killstripes. I do the stripes before completing the remaining gray and
silver on the left side of the dome. The position of the damage is very closely related to
the stripes, so I do them first. I like to have a good amount of time to get everything masked
up, so I'll hold off until tomorrow.
Less time to work during the week, so smaller updates.
Got the left cheek done. This is another of my favorite areas. The gray damage on
the inner cheek is so angular looking compared to other parts of the helmet. Plus it has
that strange darker greenish-gray color along the outer edge.
This brings me to the killstripes. I do the stripes before completing the remaining gray and
silver on the left side of the dome. The position of the damage is very closely related to
the stripes, so I do them first. I like to have a good amount of time to get everything masked
up, so I'll hold off until tomorrow.
superjedi
Sr Hunter
How do you get to Carnegie Hall?
Practice!
Seriously, I've been doing this for a while now, and each commission gives me a chance to
hone my color palette and techniques. I'm a very organized kind of person, and after all the
time I've been doing helmets, each one takes on a methodical "1, 2, 3" kind of progression.
If you look at the work of any artist who does more than one of the same project, you should
(hopefully) see a level of consistency. If the same person uses the same materials, the same
reference material, and the same tools and techniques, it should look consistent.
No update today. I just got home from the eye doctor and he dilated my pupils, so my vision
is very weird! :wacko Don't want to work on anything that requires focusing on small details or
accurate measurements.
Killstripes tomorrow!
Practice!
Seriously, I've been doing this for a while now, and each commission gives me a chance to
hone my color palette and techniques. I'm a very organized kind of person, and after all the
time I've been doing helmets, each one takes on a methodical "1, 2, 3" kind of progression.
If you look at the work of any artist who does more than one of the same project, you should
(hopefully) see a level of consistency. If the same person uses the same materials, the same
reference material, and the same tools and techniques, it should look consistent.
No update today. I just got home from the eye doctor and he dilated my pupils, so my vision
is very weird! :wacko Don't want to work on anything that requires focusing on small details or
accurate measurements.
Killstripes tomorrow!
superjedi
Sr Hunter
UPDATE: July 18, 2014
OK, back on track now!
Got the whole killstripe region complete. I've got a thread in the Prop Building Workshop forum
that outlines my process for doing the stripes, so I won't repeat it here. If you're interested,
you can check it out here:
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f32/boba-fett-esb-killstripe-tutorial-49888/
Here are several angles of the helmet's left side. With the curve of the dome, it's hard to
photograph all the detail in one shot. It appears more prominent or fainter depending on
the angle of the lighting.
I find that the stripes look better if I apply a couple of light coats. It leaves them just barely translucent.
Here's the last one.
There will be just a bit more detail added to this section once I've gotten the mandibles done.
I add the fade under the killstripes close to the end of the project when I'm doing the final
weathering stages.
Next up will be painting the RF ear. After that, I'll be able to lay down the base red on the mandibles!
OK, back on track now!
Got the whole killstripe region complete. I've got a thread in the Prop Building Workshop forum
that outlines my process for doing the stripes, so I won't repeat it here. If you're interested,
you can check it out here:
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f32/boba-fett-esb-killstripe-tutorial-49888/
Here are several angles of the helmet's left side. With the curve of the dome, it's hard to
photograph all the detail in one shot. It appears more prominent or fainter depending on
the angle of the lighting.
I find that the stripes look better if I apply a couple of light coats. It leaves them just barely translucent.
Here's the last one.
There will be just a bit more detail added to this section once I've gotten the mandibles done.
I add the fade under the killstripes close to the end of the project when I'm doing the final
weathering stages.
Next up will be painting the RF ear. After that, I'll be able to lay down the base red on the mandibles!
superjedi
Sr Hunter
superjedi
Sr Hunter
Thanks, spacebob.
I do have an ESB in my collection. It's an FPH that I completed at the very end of 2007.
The paint-up thread is here:
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f23/superjedis-fph-progress-thread-22530/?highlight=FPH
If you look through that thread, my overall technique (topical with some layered thrown in
on the back panels) has remained basically the same. It's seven years down the road now, and
during that time I've tweaked some of the colors/blends that I use, and just try to pay closer
attention to the intricate shapes of the damage areas.
If I sat my FPH side by side with one of the helmets I have completed within the last year or so,
I can certainly see small differences in the details. I've considered doing another ESB for myself,
but my FPH is signed by Jeremy Bulloch, so it's never leaving my collection, and there's no reason
for me to have two ESB helmets.
I do have an ESB in my collection. It's an FPH that I completed at the very end of 2007.
The paint-up thread is here:
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f23/superjedis-fph-progress-thread-22530/?highlight=FPH
If you look through that thread, my overall technique (topical with some layered thrown in
on the back panels) has remained basically the same. It's seven years down the road now, and
during that time I've tweaked some of the colors/blends that I use, and just try to pay closer
attention to the intricate shapes of the damage areas.
If I sat my FPH side by side with one of the helmets I have completed within the last year or so,
I can certainly see small differences in the details. I've considered doing another ESB for myself,
but my FPH is signed by Jeremy Bulloch, so it's never leaving my collection, and there's no reason
for me to have two ESB helmets.
TheBobaFett
Active Hunter
Well,I know who I'll be sending my ESB bucket to one day...
Just amazing work bro! Absolutely loving how the back panel looks!
Just amazing work bro! Absolutely loving how the back panel looks!
superjedi
Sr Hunter
Thanks man!
UPDATE: July 20, 2014
Red! Got the mandibles masked and painted. This is the most complex masking on the entire
helmet, and the ears-on just creates an extra masking step. I decided to do the red prior to doing
the RF ear after all.
I actually did the mandibles yesterday. After letting them dry overnight, I had some time to begin
the damage. I started with the keyslot area.
Next I'll begin working on the band above the keyslots, then on to the vertical sections behind
the ears. The front sections will come after that.
UPDATE: July 20, 2014
Red!
Got the mandibles masked and painted. This is the most complex masking on the entirehelmet, and the ears-on just creates an extra masking step. I decided to do the red prior to doing
the RF ear after all.
I actually did the mandibles yesterday. After letting them dry overnight, I had some time to begin
the damage. I started with the keyslot area.
Next I'll begin working on the band above the keyslots, then on to the vertical sections behind
the ears. The front sections will come after that.
PistolSolid
Hunter
Beutiful!
