Superjedi's M_S 2

Webchief,
See, that's what comes from being a "lurker" for a while. . . soak up some terrific info from people, and then WHAM! :lol:
I've been building models for a loooooooong time, since I was about 8 years old. That was 30 years ago (so all you math whizzes out there can figure out how old I am now!) and I would never have attempted anything like this if I didn't have decades of practice.
Thanks to all you long-timers who have put up some fantastic pics of your own stuff!
Eric
 
UPDATE JULY 8th
OK, the mandibles are done! I'm finished with all the "red" areas now using the same technique previously described. As well as the lower right cheek, using the darker version of the Lark gray.

Killstripes! Man, after reading some of the frustrations people have had with these, I was a bit leery about doing these, but here's how I did it.
I started by scaling up the template found on TK-409's website until it was the correct size, then began masking them off with some blue painters tape. I stuck the tape down on a glass table top to reduce the stickiness, and masked off all 14 stripes. I just used the tape to form simple rectangles the proper size (by scaling up the referene pics I'm using, I came up with stripes that are about 25 millimeters high.) Once the basic shapes of the stripes were taped off, I used the Winsor/Newton masking fluid once again, and painted on all the chipped/missing areas on the individual stripes. Once the fluid was dry, I double checked the edges of the blue tape, burnishing down the edges really well with the back of a paint brush, and began painting them.

I used Polly Scale UP Armor Yellow, applied with a dense white make-up sponge. No airbrushing, spraying, or hand brushing! I saturated a section of the sponge and dabbed a bit off onto a paper towel, then dabbed the yellow onto the masked-off stripes. I didn't even worry about getting a good coat the first time, just wanted to get a yellow base on. After about 15 minutes, I repeated the sponging, getting more yellow coverage. Waited again, etc. and repeated this about 5 times, until there wasn't any more green showing through. I've used this sponging technique on many models before, and it gives a nice subtly "uneven" effect, unlike airbrushing.

After the Armor Yellow was dry, I ground up some pastels on a piece of sandpaper. I used a generic orange, and a darker reddish orange. I took an old, stiff 1/2" brush and used that to apply the pastels. I used the lighter orange and put that over all the stripes, then used the darker shade to go over that, slowly applying more reddish orange the further back I went. All the reference I've seen seems to show the stripes gradually getting a little "redder" the closer they get to the back of the helmet. Once I was satisfied with the tone of the stripes, I carefully removed the tape, pulling most of the masking liquid off along with it. Any remaining latex I removed afterwards. Since I burnished the edges of the blue tape, there was virtually no bleed through underneath, much to my relief. There were literally only 3 tiny areas that I fixed by gently scraping the yellow away with an old X-acto blade.

And here's the new pics!
Eric

right cheek.JPG


left mand1.JPG


stripes1.JPG
 
UPDATE JULY 10th
Man, I really get to make some progress on the weekends! :)
Most of the basic painting/damage is complete.

I finished the upper cheeks, detailing with Lark Dark Gray and silver.

The dome is just about done as well. Scratches/damage done with the same gray and silver as used on the lower cheeks. Then the small individual scratches were done with a compass point. That was seriously time-consuming. I also added the yellowish stains using Citadel Yellow Ink, and the black scuffs located around the kill stripe area with Citadel Black Ink, applied with an insanely tiny brush. LOL.

The next stage will be to use some black and dark gray pastels, and go over the entire helmet, adding some of that faded dirty look. Then a final overspray of Testors Dullcote.

New pics!
Eric

IMG_0003.JPG


IMG_0004.JPG


IMG_0008.JPG
 
DUDE! your bucket is turning out fantastic! One of the finest I've ever seen by far. I need to get remotivated and finish my ESB bucket soon.
Again GREAT JOB.
 
Looking awesome. I am about half way done with mine, and some of the helmets I see rolling out are amazing, I look at mine and have to laugh.
 
cal196 said:
Looking awesome. I am about half way done with mine, and some of the helmets I see rolling out are amazing, I look at mine and have to laugh.

I have to agree with you Cal. These guys are giving me a complex. :p

Great work, Superjedi!
 
xaoslord said:
I have to agree with you Cal. These guys are giving me a complex. :p

Great work, Superjedi!

Ack! OK, OK! I'm stripping the whole thing down and painting it lavender with little yellow flowers.
Pics to come! :lol:
Eric
 
Very nice (y)

I went out and bought the Winsor and Newton brand and I'm not having the same affect you are. Are you using acrylic only, or spray paint as well. My problem is when I remove the masking fluid, some of the paint that was on top of it stays behind and mis-shapes my weathering. Am I doing something wrong ? Your lines are very crisp and very dead-on.... I'm needing a pointer or two.

 
It does look bad, but after you screw up three of four times, and finally get to a different stage and see some progress, it gets easier.
 
psberetta said:
Very nice (y)

I went out and bought the Winsor and Newton brand and I'm not having the same affect you are. Are you using acrylic only, or spray paint as well. My problem is when I remove the masking fluid, some of the paint that was on top of it stays behind and mis-shapes my weathering. Am I doing something wrong ? Your lines are very crisp and very dead-on.... I'm needing a pointer or two.

I used Testors Model Master colors for the back section of the helmet. I mixed a custom beige shade and sprayed that on. Once it was dry, I penciled the damage lines, and brushed on the W/N masking fluid. After it had dried, I sprayed the darker blue-green over it.
To remove the masking fluid, and this sounds really weird, I used a piece of tracing paper. I just rubbed it over the whole back of the helmet, and the masking fluid just rolled right off. Now, I can't say if that will work if you're using different types of paint. But it worked like a champ for me.
Eric
 
psberetta said:
Very nice (y)

My problem is when I remove the masking fluid, some of the paint that was on top of it stays behind and mis-shapes my weathering.

I had the exact same problem, spend ages getting the masking fluid detail right then all goes to pot when its removed:angry I did find though I only had this problem with the acrylic not the enamel:confused

Jon
BH1195
 
Actually I have the same problem, I was only able to locate most of the colours for my armour in enamel, but a few in acrylic. When I masked on the acrylic, it always ended up peeling beyond where I masked.
 
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