An airbrush is awesome if you have the patience to learn it. You can cover alot of area with a little paint.Can you use airbrushing and rattle cans? I've had trouble of mixing paints leading to peeling in the past. I recently inherited a airbrush (but no compressor) and so I'm wondering if I should try to borrow one for my painting or should stick with my experience in the rattles
It depends on the paint you're using and how you're layering it. If you are using acrylic paints out of the airbrush, you need to be very careful using more caustic paints (ie: rattlecans) because it can kill your acrylic coat, especially if it isn't completely dry.Can you use airbrushing and rattle cans? I've had trouble of mixing paints leading to peeling in the past. I recently inherited a airbrush (but no compressor) and so I'm wondering if I should try to borrow one for my painting or should stick with my experience in the rattles
I put down my primer coat with rattle can. The rest I have done with airbrush. If you get a .5mm airbrush needle you can cover a lot of material. Mixing enamel and acrylic paints follow a pretty basic rule. You want to thin the paint down to roughly the consistency of whole milk. Enamels are thinned down with lacquer paint thinner, and acrylics are thinned down with acrylic paint thinner (which is essentially a light soap and water).And you can put enamel airbrush on top of rattlecan? I have no experience with airbrushing so I'm trying to determine the most efficient way to mix things since I get the impression that airbrush isnt for large basecoats but more detail and weather work. Am I wrong and you can relatively quickly coat a piece using airbrush or would you recommend that I lay down my base silver/yellow/green via rattle then go in for nitty gritty with airbrush?
Pictures wont upload on Explorer or Chrome. But the explanations are great/ So amazing how so many help each other in here. Fantastic group. Simply astonishing...Since there seem to always be threads about paint colors for RotJ, I figured I'd create some search-fodder.
This is just what i like. This isn't "right". You might hate the results. The cans might explode, sending shrapnel into your eyes. I'm not to blame for any of that!! Enough folks have said they like my suit that I guess it's at least ok.
Personally, I think you should seek out the colors that YOU like best, rather than just trusting someone else to make the decision. It's your armor, so make it you YOU want it, not how I want it!
Also note that I'm not mentioning anything about the subtle weathering... mists of grey and brown, graphite powder, razor scratches, etc...
This is my armor:
And here's what I used (sort of):
Line Striping Yellow
Hunt Club Green
My armor is metal, so it was already silver. Assuming you're working with something non-metal, do the standard prime and coat silver thing.
The line striping yellow is an inverted can, so you spray upside down. But it's the best match to the color that I've been able to find in a spray can.
After the yellow, I do a layer of Spruce green on the ab plate only. This is for the light scratches where the rifle stock hits the armor.
The hunt club green is the finish color, with black misted fairly heavily in some areas, as can be seen in the photos.
For the shoulders and knees, I use these:
Line Striping Yellow
Line striping yellow, with misted layer orange. For the weathering on the knees, I use the summer squash for the layer between the silver and the yellow/orange.
And for the gauntlets, I revisit some colors from the helmet: black and claret wine (please excuse the bad composite here. the primer is implied )
Real simple... silver, masking, flat black then claret wine, with a bit more black misted on top.
On the note of the "subtle weathering" that I didn't get into above - don't forget that you always want to use a matte clear coat to seal it all and dull down any gloss. Satin, gloss... it doesn't matter what the finish of the paint is, as long as you have a good clear coat.
Testor's Dullcote is my favorite. I've never had a bad reaction with the paint underneath it, so that's a plus.
That being said, if you can't get the dullcote anything should do. Be careful - clear coats can mess up the paint underneath if you don't carefully follow instructions, including letting all of the layers underneath cure properly.
Also note that products change regularly... Some of these paints are 4+ years old. You might not be able to find exact matches anymore.