holy crap you beat me to it, althought you hit some topics i hadnt even thought of, like using the clear acylic 1" sheet.. i was just going to use a lense.. but i think your way will show better.... DRAT ON YOU! but thanks for the tutorial its going to make everything a bunch easier. oh well.. long as no one beats me to my metroid costume idea i wont be tooo dissapointed and depressed.
Hold tight Fett's. Things are heating up in real life so I haven't been around here as much as I'd like, and the drafts are still hanging. In the mean time, I would encourage everyone out there to tear into this project on their own...it's not like my word is the RF gospel. I have full confidence in you to complete this...and we're all counting on you.
Last but not least….the final diagram.
Each piece is labeled with a letter to indicate order of assembly. The final piece “G” has no solid dimensions associated with it since this piece will most likely have to be cut to fit (start over-sized, then work your way down with it) from any minute errors that accumulate. The next to last part, “F,” which is the outside wall, is also a part that may take some refinement. Expect the front wall, “C” to cant inwards and contact the clear part. Depending on how your work turns out, “C” may require an additional shim of .030” styrene on the inside to make a good fit along the whole length along the clear part. However, a big point I’d like to make is that on so many resin RF’s I see out there, the line I’ve highlighted below is a blocky vertical line (perpendicular to the horizon). From my reference material, this is not the case so you can see the associated angles in the diagram. Also, sealing and sanding this side takes great care so as not to turn it into a vertical line by accident. In parenthesis are the sheet thicknesses, but remember to go to a thinner sheet on “E” if going ROTJ style. As always, these dimensions are just a guess and I hope they’re close…if anything they should work well with a Mystery scaled helmet.
One last lesson. If you are considering building this thing and casting it…good luck…that goes against the whole design and you’ll probably have to glue the clear part in and sacrifice a lot of accuracy as well as functionality. Besides, it’s not that hard…
Thanks again for the words folks! I'm not sure what "sticky" criteria is, maybe the mods could weigh in. You can get said acrylic from a plastics supply company. I've seen many online, but if you can, I'd stay local to be sure you know what you're getting. If anyone's tried this yet, I'd love to see the pics! Post 'em baby!
DUDE THIS THREAD HAS BEEN UPDATED! WHERE HAVE I BEEN!?
Everything looks like you reached in and yanked off Fett's RF!
If you wanted to get a clearer finish on the acrylic before it was assembled, the edges of a product like that can sometimes be slightly heated with a blowtorch (butane) and it causes any abbrasions, scratches or ships from cutting to be evened-out and given a clear look. (I have done this myself with lexan used for shelving)