SingleSeat's Rangefinder (Scratch-built) *pics*


SingleSeat

Active Hunter
Sellers of raw plastics are all over the phone book (and the internet), of course the bigger the city you live in, the better. The only thing that could become daunting is finding a place that will sell it in such small quantities since most suppliers make their money on quantity.
 

propsculptor

Active Hunter
I was lucky enough to get a large chunk of Acrylic at a plastics place recently, they made a mistake on an order and gave it to me FREE as a bonus! :)

SOLOCHASER where are you located? What City/State?

SOLOCHASER said:
hey SSforever, i gotta say that is amazing! I would like to try following your tutorial, however where does one get a slab of cast acrylic? i think i can get everything else except that.
 

stonerook

Active Hunter
SS - excellent thread.

You motivated me to make my own now to go on the MS3 helmet I have coming.

I contacted Hyperdyne to order the "SS" version of there LED board to go into it, so it should work out pretty good I think.

The hard part was finding a good source of cast acrylic - but I found a place on the web that sells it - without a minumum purchase - and it's pretty inexpensive.

http://www.delviesplastics.com/ACRYLIC%20SHEET.htm

I ordered two sheets of 12" X 12" X 1". That should give me enough ooops material.

The drawing plans are invaluable - thanks for that!

 

stonerook

Active Hunter
SingleSeat -

here is a suggestion for the wires in the clear assembly:

For the wires - use green tinted acrylic rods, when you blacken the end piece like that, the white led will make them glow inside the viewfinder, giving it more of "glowy" effect.

The ends of the rods are past the block a bit, to act like light conduits, if that makes sense. Make sure the ends of these rods are not blacken. (think fiber optic)

Once I get mine up and running, I will post a picture.
 

SingleSeat

Active Hunter
That sounds like a great idea stone'. Acrylic really captures light well! Can't wait for your pics. I stopped the R&D short of lighting the inside until I can find out what exactly is inside the real prop. I'm going for screen-accuracy vice making an RF that looks like it might actually project targeting info. Maybe in the future...

...but thanks to Hyperdyne, the light is still inside waiting for me to find a use for it!
 
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stonerook

Active Hunter
update -

just received my two slabs of the acrylic... Only took a week from that company posted above. (good price too!)

and the SingleSeat version of the hyperdyne led package.

I will be working on this next week - will post pics.
 

pghfett

Active Hunter
I don't know if anyone touched on this, but earlier in the thread everyone was looking for a good clear coat or casting the bottom piece in clear resin (but the air bubble issue came up) to get a super clear resin piece.

My suggestion and technique I'm going to use for a clear bottom section is an old car modelers trick.

Sand up the lower section as described here, then coat/dip with FUTURE FLOOR WAX.

This coating is what I use when making NASCAR models and want a super clear windshield. You can actually sand defects out of the the windshield, wet sand it up then "dip" the windshield into the floor wax for a crystal clear window application. Its has flawless results - and no air bubbles or runs.;)

I'm sure this would work with the rangefinders clear plastic bottom as described here for a super clear, bubble free finish. :)

If I ever get to it and do one up I'll post pics.:facepalm
 

mandalore697

Active Hunter
I don't know if anyone touched on this, but earlier in the thread everyone was looking for a good clear coat or casting the bottom piece in clear resin (but the air bubble issue came up) to get a super clear resin piece.

My suggestion and technique I'm going to use for a clear bottom section is an old car modelers trick.

Sand up the lower section as described here, then coat/dip with FUTURE FLOOR WAX.

This coating is what I use when making NASCAR models and want a super clear windshield. You can actually sand defects out of the the windshield, wet sand it up then "dip" the windshield into the floor wax for a crystal clear window application. Its has flawless results - and no air bubbles or runs.;)

I'm sure this would work with the rangefinders clear plastic bottom as described here for a super clear, bubble free finish. :)

If I ever get to it and do one up I'll post pics.:facepalm

That's a great link! Thanks for the suggestion. I tried using some of the ABS polish that came with my TK kit and it worked out just as good.
 

getoninja

Active Hunter
maybe joke troll

but since then we now have easy access to 3D printers. I picked up my Range Finder with lens frame and stalk from RafelFett @ Shapeways
I thought of building mine to save money but don't have time and patience. and 3D prices are fair for basically accurate parts
 
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