Pinkflamingos6 ROTJ Build

ShortFuse

Active Hunter
For the 501st you don’t even need to have an EE-3. It is optional. If you choose to include it in your submission, these are the only requirements.

ROTJ EE-3
  • Made from a Webley MK VI Flare gun (or replica) or made to resemble the prop.
  • An ASI/Hunter or similar, vintage 4x20 scope mounted to the top of the breach and barrel.
  • Barrel modified for ROTJ with T tracks installed to match film era visual references.
  • The entire blaster, including the stock, is dark grey color and heavily weathered.
  • Detail pieces installed on the sides of gun and stock to closely match film era visual references.
OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • EE3 base is an all resin replica, including the stock, of an actual Webley flare gun.
  • Scope mounts are the correct vintage part with short feet or cast replicas as seen in film era visual references.
 
Before I put a clear coat on I wanted to get some opinions, looking good? Or more weathering?
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So I got my soft parts in from Arkady and I absolutely love them! Quality is spectacular! The fit is a little snug but I still need to work off some of the holiday pounds lol
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Now moving on to the flak vest and armor plates... what do you think of this spacing/placement?
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I'm planning on using velcro to attach the plates but wanted to get some opinions before I start sewing. Thanks!
 

ShortFuse

Active Hunter
So I got my soft parts in from Arkady and I absolutely love them! Quality is spectacular! The fit is a little snug but I still need to work off some of the holiday pounds lol
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Now moving on to the flak vest and armor plates... what do you think of this spacing/placement? View attachment 219667
I'm planning on using velcro to attach the plates but wanted to get some opinions before I start sewing. Thanks!
Only about 1/2” of the flak vest should show below the abdominal armor.
 

Irongladiator

Active Hunter
TDH PREMIUM MEMBER
Only about 1/2” of the flak vest should show below the abdominal armor.
Was gonna say the same thing. And maybe the tops of the chest and the bottom of the collar armor could be a little closer together. But other than that looks great. Velcro though huh? I've heard mixed things on that - in the end I opt'd with the bolts and grommets method. But to each his own.

I also need to shed a little off my own mid section! Dank Ferrik them holiday pounds though, eh?
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-Iron
 
That's what I figured about the bottom. Gonna try and play with the layout some more today.

Iron, I heard velcro is second to the grommet method but I like the idea of velcro because I can always fine tweak the placement of the plates. If it doesn't work out in the long run I'm gonna try the grommets.
 
I thought about the jewelry pins but I'm gonna stick to the velcro for now since I already got the majority of the sewing done.

Pretty happy with the way it's turned out, just gotta shed some pounds in the midsection. This will help with the overall fit of the vest and the way the plates stick out around the edges now.

The way I attached the velcro gives me about a quarter to half an inch of wiggle room on the plates. Still have some more velcro to sew on to complete the outline of each plate but now I have a good idea of the fit and placement of everything.

I used tape to help outline the plates then used pins to tack the velcro in place while I sewed everything together.
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Was able to get my girth belt all set on this snowy day.

I used rustoleum colonial red latex paint mixed with some water based brown wood stain to get the color, then mixed in water until I got a milky consistency.
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I then poured the paint into a roller pan and dunked the belt into the paint to completely saturate all of the rope, working the paint in with my hands and a cheap throw away paint brush.

This is a really messy task so gloves and plenty of paper towels are a must lol. After getting all the rope completely soaked in paint I "rung" out the belt to remove any excess.

After removing the majority of the paint by hand I tried to remove as much paint from the buckles with a rag. Then I hung up the belt from both sides with a hanger to make a hammock and let the belt dry for 48 hours.

After the belt was completely dry I worked the ropes to remove any stiffness in the belt. I also used a rag and some 91% IPA to remove the remaining paint from the buckles. I then went over the buckles with a wire brush to give them a duller appearance.

After all of that I sewed on some black 1" webbing and added some holes to the webbing with a soldering iron.

I think it came out pretty well, the paint seems to have stained the belt nicely as well as stiffen it up. I followed a tutorial on here that illustrated a similar method. Going to let it dry and work the rope more before I wear it against my flightsuit but I haven't had any issues against a t shirt so far.
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The excitement got the best of me, couldn't help but play dress up on this snowy Sunday. I know I need the ammo belt, which I already ordered from delta leatherworks, and the wookie scalps. And I just substituted the Hasbro ESB helmet for my BobaMaker helmet which should be here tomorrow! Let me know what you guys think so far!
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Just doing a little update, trying what I have on gave me some insight on some things for improvement.

Firstly I printed out some of these gauntlet latches that AprilStorm has on thingiverse.com. I printed them out of PETG and glued them in with hot glue. They're great and really easy to use and are very sturdy. I think I'm going to make the pin part out of some metal rod I have to make it more secure.
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I also glued a nylon washer to the bottom of each of the six studs. This helps keep them from turning as freely and keeps the aluminum from scratching the paint.
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I also took a trick from IronGladiator in his hose attachment method. I used a picture hanger, nylon washer, nut, and machine screw to secure the hose. I grinded the screws down and rounded off the end to keep them from catching on anything. Then attached all three hoses to a key ring that connects to the buckle in the sleeve of the flightsuit. I feel like this is a great way to do it and is very secure! Kudos to you Iron! I also used his coffee stain method for the hoses and they turned out great!
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I also cut 2 holes in my flak vest to access the chest display buttons and power clip. Just cut a hole then went around the perimeter with some thread to keep the ends from fraying too much.
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I also made a stop at hobby lobby and picked up some strap adjusters for the webbing on my harness as well as some rivets for the straps near the D-rings.
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Lastly, I'm so excited that my BobaMaker helmet came in and is all intact! This thing is a beautiful piece. As nervous as I am about starting to paint it up I'm very excited!
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Excited to lay the first of many layers of paint on my BobaMaker helmet.
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I'm still not 100% sure on the colors I'm going to use, but I know I'm going to use a mix of vallejo model paints and rattle cans. Both will be sprayed thru an airbrush. I know I'm going to use hunter green for the back panels, but I'm unsure which green to use for the dome and cheeks. I'm leaning more towards Italian olive.
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I've got a good arsenal of greys to choose from so I'll have to see what I wanna do when the time comes. Stay tuned!
 

Krewkid82

Active Hunter
TDH PREMIUM MEMBER
That helmet looks sooo awesome!! All the gouges and nicks really bring it to life...good job I can't wait for the updates...I'm definitely following this one!
 
Currently terrified working on the back panels of my helmet. I'm using Vallejo 71.121 light gull gray for the base gray color and 71.277 dark gull gray for the darker areas. Gonna let this dry then mask up for the green layer.
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I decided against masking the silver damage on the back panels because I figured it would be easier to do topically.

Using Rafal's stencils as a guide is extremely helpful. Thank you!
 
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