Ordo Te'skotah's Armor
- Thread starter Ordo Te skot
- Start date
Enyc Gor kal
New Hunter
Hey, I'm attempting to make a dagger, and...well, the rivets aren't working. How did you do it?
Enyc Gor kal
New Hunter
Whoops, wrong post I quoted there......
Hey, I'm attempting to make a dagger, and...well, the rivets aren't working. How did you do it?
Fresh from my workshop...
This one is 100% from scratch. I used scrap high-carbon steel from the handguard of the cutlass I made the "Mandalorian Short Sword" from for the blade, I worked it slowly and carefully so it wouldn't lose it's temper. The bolster is carved aluminum, copper retaining rivet, antler handle, with an amethyst set in the tip of the pommel. This is my first attempt at both a Knife from scratch, as well as detail carving in antler. This one will be my "utility knife", likely in a boot rig.
Hey, I'm attempting to make a dagger, and...well, the rivets aren't working. How did you do it?
Ordo Te skot
Hunter
I used a length of heavy guage copper wire, cut to 1/8th of an inch extra through both sides, then peened both sides and sanded flush. 8)
Ordo Te skot
Hunter
Not planning on trying to get into cons with the blades... 
NovallTalon
Well-Known Hunter
Depends on the con though, DragonCon you could as long as they are sheathed. My GF took both of her real swords in...hell she even pulled them out a couple times.
Mercke Lutso
Hunter
Okay, the pistol holster looks about as perfect as physically possible...
That's because Ordo, the guy who made them, was never born...
... he, himself was scratch built from pieces of used props from the following films:
Blade Runner
Alien
V (The 80's television series)
Knight Rider (I know for a FACT that his skin is partially made from KITT's leather from his interior...
Just to let you guys know ... ORDO IS A MACHINE
The suit and all of your accessories look great, Ordo...8)
Enyc Gor kal
New Hunter
Where'd you find wire that big? I've tried steel wire and nails but can't find the right size.
Ordo Te skot
Hunter
It was a heavy-guage ground wire from lowes... Another thin you can try is Tandy Leather, they have copper nail rivets.
Ordo Te skot
Hunter
More progress on the functional gauntlet: 8)
Enyc Gor kal
New Hunter
Ground wire...kool, will look for that next time I'm there. Thanks!
Oh, and the gaunt is so awesome! I kno I already said so on MM, but....it's so kool!
Oh, and the gaunt is so awesome! I kno I already said so on MM, but....it's so kool!
Ordo Te skot
Hunter
I started on my left knee last night as well... I've had the main pieces cut out since before I started on the gauntlet, so I figured I may as well start on them while I brainstorm on how best to make comfortable cuffs for my gauntlet design:
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
Those are sweet what did you pound them out of?
Ordo Te skot
Hunter
Discarded street sign and epoxy putty 8)
{Edit}
Started the paint scheme:
{Edit}
Started the paint scheme:
Last edited by a moderator:
MiniMandalorFett1
New Hunter
Very cool those blades are sweet
and the lazier pointer is cool.
and the lazier pointer is cool.
Last edited by a moderator:
The Clayster
Well-Known Hunter
Awesome job!!!
What is in the gauntlet that is functional? I realize it is like a palm pilot or something...
Or was it already posted in this thread, and I totally overlooked it?
Either way, you are doing a great job!
What is in the gauntlet that is functional? I realize it is like a palm pilot or something...
Or was it already posted in this thread, and I totally overlooked it?
Either way, you are doing a great job!
Ordo Te skot
Hunter
Sorry I haven't updated this thread in a while... :facepalm
On the left gauntlet, the Datapad is a Palm TX (not my favorite, but I got it cheap*and* it has wifi), and is fully funtional.
The series of lights on top is the readout for a wifi scanner, so I can check for wifi access without switching on the datapad. There's also decorative LED's, two blink and two stay on. On front, there's a single LED flashlight, and the module on the side where the flamethrower usually goes is a 10mw 532nm DPSS green laser unit. The switch on the back right side of the gauntlet is the safety switch for the laser, the red button on the side of the gauntlet is the momentary trigger for the laser itself. The black button re-sets the wifi scanner, and the black knob turns on the flashlight.
On to new stuff :cheers
Well... I got a wild hair and decided to work on a custom helmet. I have ALOT of trimming, sculpting, filling, etc to do to get my designs out of my head and into the helm itself, but here's the craptacular start.
The red is bondo filler putty to smooth out the hammer marks and imperfections. The blue and green plastic is not permanant, or rather, isn't the extent of what the walls of the helm will consist of... I plan on re-inforcing the helm with fiberglass once I can afford it. I also increased the sight area of the visor in my design:
The fiberglass doesn't seem to like the plastic "guide" pieces for the sides/back of the helm, but I *finally* got it to stick and to stay. Here it is with the sides and back glassed, sanded, and with a coat of bondo putty to smooth it out. Still have to sand it, and attatch the dome, etc/
*Note: The plastic piece in the visor area is to keep the mandibles seperated enough while I'm working on it.
Worked on attaching the dome, which was still slightly the wrong shape, to the rest of the helm. After it was stable and strong enough to handle it, I'll took an angle grinder to the edges of the dome to even up the dome contour to match the rest of the helm, and then re-glassed the outer shell:
I vigorously attacked the mis-shapen dome edges to get a more correct-looking contour, filled the rest of the gaps in the outer shell, and primed... I still had a bit of smoothing out to do, and one more application of fiberglass to put inside, but it's coming along nicely:
After *much* thought, I decided to leave off the RF module, at least until I build something useful to go into it. Instead, I decided to put a green and red blinking LED module into the side of the helm. I am working on custom ear designs, so I'll leave the option of removing the top part of the right(when it's on your head) earcap, to install an RF module at a later date if need be. On the *other* side of the brow, I installed a high-intensity LED tactical light module. ;D
I also built up the brow "lip", cut out the triangles(slightly too large, but oh well.). Also, the oversized visor area was intentional... I like being able to see. 8)
I also used part of a cooling vent out of an old computer PSU for the back air vents (instead of keyholes).
Not even close to being finished with the paint... the purple pearl I use for everything takes a bit longer to dry. I did, however, peel some of the mustard masked areas off the black... So here she is, "lightly" weathered (so far):
A bit more weathering... and I started on one of the earcaps. ;D
I accidentally fried my tactical light setup, so I had to carve it out and re-sculpt that section with a new tac light assembly. I'm still working on the interior electronics, and I still need to get a T-visor, but I have the helmet more or less done otherwise:
Here's my helmet interior so far, with an FRS/GMRS radio installed:
Originally, I wasn't going to go with a chest display. A. I can't afford the nice pre-built ones, and B. I didn't want a carbon-copied display... I wanted something custom. I completely screwed up the flat ribbon cable that connects the camera module to the moterboard of the camera I was originally going to integrate into my helm, but the rest of it still works. So I basically have a small LCD monitor that will display pictures and video... ;D
Rather than stress myself out trying to build and program a comlex custom chest light, I am going to attempt to mount the remainder of the DV camera behind the chestplate where the light board would normally go, and cut the slots to fit the animation which will be displayed on the screen. In theory, this should work. 8)
Here's the animation:
![URL]](http://[URL]http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee49/Ordo_Teskotah/OrdoDisplayFinished.gif[/URL])
Here's what it says:
Mandalorian Mercs - Honor - Glory
Nervode Akaan - Nervode Naak - Aliit nau an
(Translation: "Brothers in War - Brothers in Peace - Clan before all")
Ordo Te'Skotah (Ordo the Short)
Bounty Hunter - Slicer - Demolitions
The display is green for two reasons. One, to be different, and two, since the LCD display likely won't be as bright as LED's, green appears brighter to the human eye than red. Plus, it goes along with my color scheme.
Installed chest display:
More pics:
On the left gauntlet, the Datapad is a Palm TX (not my favorite, but I got it cheap*and* it has wifi), and is fully funtional.
The series of lights on top is the readout for a wifi scanner, so I can check for wifi access without switching on the datapad. There's also decorative LED's, two blink and two stay on. On front, there's a single LED flashlight, and the module on the side where the flamethrower usually goes is a 10mw 532nm DPSS green laser unit. The switch on the back right side of the gauntlet is the safety switch for the laser, the red button on the side of the gauntlet is the momentary trigger for the laser itself. The black button re-sets the wifi scanner, and the black knob turns on the flashlight.
On to new stuff :cheers
Well... I got a wild hair and decided to work on a custom helmet. I have ALOT of trimming, sculpting, filling, etc to do to get my designs out of my head and into the helm itself, but here's the craptacular start.
The red is bondo filler putty to smooth out the hammer marks and imperfections. The blue and green plastic is not permanant, or rather, isn't the extent of what the walls of the helm will consist of... I plan on re-inforcing the helm with fiberglass once I can afford it. I also increased the sight area of the visor in my design:
The fiberglass doesn't seem to like the plastic "guide" pieces for the sides/back of the helm, but I *finally* got it to stick and to stay. Here it is with the sides and back glassed, sanded, and with a coat of bondo putty to smooth it out. Still have to sand it, and attatch the dome, etc/
*Note: The plastic piece in the visor area is to keep the mandibles seperated enough while I'm working on it.
Worked on attaching the dome, which was still slightly the wrong shape, to the rest of the helm. After it was stable and strong enough to handle it, I'll took an angle grinder to the edges of the dome to even up the dome contour to match the rest of the helm, and then re-glassed the outer shell:
I vigorously attacked the mis-shapen dome edges to get a more correct-looking contour, filled the rest of the gaps in the outer shell, and primed... I still had a bit of smoothing out to do, and one more application of fiberglass to put inside, but it's coming along nicely:
After *much* thought, I decided to leave off the RF module, at least until I build something useful to go into it. Instead, I decided to put a green and red blinking LED module into the side of the helm. I am working on custom ear designs, so I'll leave the option of removing the top part of the right(when it's on your head) earcap, to install an RF module at a later date if need be. On the *other* side of the brow, I installed a high-intensity LED tactical light module. ;D
I also built up the brow "lip", cut out the triangles(slightly too large, but oh well.). Also, the oversized visor area was intentional... I like being able to see. 8)
I also used part of a cooling vent out of an old computer PSU for the back air vents (instead of keyholes).
Not even close to being finished with the paint... the purple pearl I use for everything takes a bit longer to dry. I did, however, peel some of the mustard masked areas off the black... So here she is, "lightly" weathered (so far):
A bit more weathering... and I started on one of the earcaps. ;D
I accidentally fried my tactical light setup, so I had to carve it out and re-sculpt that section with a new tac light assembly. I'm still working on the interior electronics, and I still need to get a T-visor, but I have the helmet more or less done otherwise:
Here's my helmet interior so far, with an FRS/GMRS radio installed:
Originally, I wasn't going to go with a chest display. A. I can't afford the nice pre-built ones, and B. I didn't want a carbon-copied display... I wanted something custom. I completely screwed up the flat ribbon cable that connects the camera module to the moterboard of the camera I was originally going to integrate into my helm, but the rest of it still works. So I basically have a small LCD monitor that will display pictures and video... ;D
Rather than stress myself out trying to build and program a comlex custom chest light, I am going to attempt to mount the remainder of the DV camera behind the chestplate where the light board would normally go, and cut the slots to fit the animation which will be displayed on the screen. In theory, this should work. 8)
Here's the animation:
Here's what it says:
Mandalorian Mercs - Honor - Glory
Nervode Akaan - Nervode Naak - Aliit nau an
(Translation: "Brothers in War - Brothers in Peace - Clan before all")
Ordo Te'Skotah (Ordo the Short)
Bounty Hunter - Slicer - Demolitions
The display is green for two reasons. One, to be different, and two, since the LCD display likely won't be as bright as LED's, green appears brighter to the human eye than red. Plus, it goes along with my color scheme.
Installed chest display:
More pics:
Ordo Te skot
Hunter
Started on the right gauntlet today... I had some left over fiberglass and alot of scrap plastic and PVC, so I used part of the awesome WOF templates as a jumping off point. I cut the pattern pieces I planned on using from the WOF templates out of my scrap plastic and PVC, epoxied them together, trimmed some problem areas, glassed the interior and exterior, trimmed some more, sanded, and started on customization... ;D
There's a 12 gig hard drive and a 3 port USB hub so far. The USB hub was a 4 port, but I removed the plug for the 4th port and hard-wired the hard drive to the hub.
There's a 12 gig hard drive and a 3 port USB hub so far. The USB hub was a 4 port, but I removed the plug for the 4th port and hard-wired the hard drive to the hub.
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