Transfer tracing paper

I would understand if you did have concerns to be honest and even though I decided to try it, I was even a little surprised that it worked as well as it did. The label says no residue but I thought “yeah right!” And was sure there’d be some kind of tacky mess left behind but nope. You only need to give the tracing paper a light misting and wait 30 secs or so before placing it on the helmet.
 
Short4ATrooper
Huh! Who’d a thunk it? So would you say it is NOT an...
1646889392949.png

...kind of a product. Cause like you, I would definitely have some reservations about it not leaving some kind of residue. Also very brave of you to try this on a bucket.

-Iron
 
Short4ATrooper
Huh! Who’d a thunk it? So would you say it is NOT an...
View attachment 221244
...kind of a product. Cause like you, I would definitely have some reservations about it not leaving some kind of residue. Also very brave of you to try this on a bucket.

-Iron
It’s definitely not an “as seen on TV!” Kind of deal, here in the U.K. 3M is a well known office supply brand and most of their stuff is pretty good.

I will add a disclaimer to say that in my experience there were no issues (just in case!)

This was the great thing about getting a cheap 3D printed bucket for my first paint job ahead of receiving my BM helmet - it meant I could try different methods to find out what works best for me without potentially ruining anything.
 
I’ve tried that paper and it leaves chalky residue which is difficult to get off. So I’m gonna go with the old fashioned method of good old tracing paper. I’m really struggling with a the green for the dome and armour I actually want it like the BS green.
To top it off I’m using spray cans. Used tamiya dark yellow. Looks very dark in pics.
 

Attachments

  • D757A03C-76B3-4D4A-8203-1EE36F17516B.jpeg
    D757A03C-76B3-4D4A-8203-1EE36F17516B.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 130
  • ABF173C6-CF1B-45B8-BBA4-C0B2DAD7D7AB.jpeg
    ABF173C6-CF1B-45B8-BBA4-C0B2DAD7D7AB.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 127
  • D762439C-012B-4F58-8233-CE4A9B294891.jpeg
    D762439C-012B-4F58-8233-CE4A9B294891.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 125
I’ve tried that paper and it leaves chalky residue which is difficult to get off. So I’m gonna go with the old fashioned method of good old tracing paper. I’m really struggling with a the green for the dome and armour I actually want it like the BS green.
To top it off I’m using spray cans. Used tamiya dark yellow. Looks very dark in pics.
That’s odd. I had no such issues
 
oh wait, I thought you were saying you’d tried the adhesive spray and it left a residue.

Any kind of transfer paper was way too fiddly for me, especially on areas like the ears. Tracing paper was the way forward for me
How do you remove the graphite from the helmet, assuming that it's covered with the masking fluid before you paint? Or do you trace a bit outside the lines and keep the masking fluid inside the graphite and just paint over it? I've had success with the latter method with the transfer paper as the paint covers it without showing evidence of the lines below. Not sure it would with graphite. Interested to try the method as I've already been printing the stencils on tracing paper, but the doubling up with tracing paper over transfer paper for getting the stencil on the helmet. Good stuff.
 
How do you remove the graphite from the helmet, assuming that it's covered with the masking fluid before you paint? Or do you trace a bit outside the lines and keep the masking fluid inside the graphite and just paint over it? I've had success with the latter method with the transfer paper as the paint covers it without showing evidence of the lines below. Not sure it would with graphite. Interested to try the method as I've already been printing the stencils on tracing paper, but the doubling up with tracing paper over transfer paper for getting the stencil on the helmet. Good stuff.
Yep, I trace just outside the lines and run the masking fluid just shy of the pencil lines. I found it really difficult to remove the pencil marks so this worked best for me as the paint does indeed cover the pencil/graphite marks.
 
Me too
How do you remove the graphite from the helmet, assuming that it's covered with the masking fluid before you paint? Or do you trace a bit outside the lines and keep the masking fluid inside the graphite and just paint over it? I've had success with the latter method with the transfer paper as the paint covers it without showing evidence of the lines below. Not sure it would with graphite. Interested to try the method as I've already been printing the stencils on tracing paper, but the doubling up with tracing paper over transfer paper for getting the stencil on the helmet. Good stuff.
I just masking fluid to the lines use a sharp pencil make fine lines
 
I did an interesting experiment today that I think might make future stencil applications much easier and faster. I bought the following off of Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B4R44S4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which is transfer paper but in 8.3x11.7 inch sheets. It's super thin but I was able to print on it using my HP printer (see pic below). It might require loading a page at a time to get the sheets to print as they're super thin and would probably pull multiple sheets through but it's got potential. From there, you'd be able to use the transfer paper directly on the helmet without any extra tracing or without an extra piece of paper with the stencil on it.

Stencil printed on transfer paper.jpg
 
DennisFett1142 that's really great! It looks like it got mis-aligned slightly, but I think if you carefully taped that paper to a plain sheet of paper it might help keep it all lined up as it goes through the printer.
 
I did an interesting experiment today that I think might make future stencil applications much easier and faster. I bought the following off of Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B4R44S4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which is transfer paper but in 8.3x11.7 inch sheets. It's super thin but I was able to print on it using my HP printer (see pic below). It might require loading a page at a time to get the sheets to print as they're super thin and would probably pull multiple sheets through but it's got potential. From there, you'd be able to use the transfer paper directly on the helmet without any extra tracing or without an extra piece of paper with the stencil on it.

View attachment 221308
Thanks guys
 
This thread is more than 2 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top