LEDs in Rangefinder??? Here is PROOF!

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Originally posted by Lynn TXP 0369:

I guess we can say that the range finder must have definatly hollow for the allowence of wires to the LED's, at least this pic makes it appear this way.

It is from the "From SW to IJ" book.
Lynn
 
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Originally posted by Lynn TXP 0369:

"Lynn, can you LEDs be pushed down into the rangefinder?"

They are a little high for me also, I can't push mine down as they are glued permently in place. I'm sure with the intial building process you may be able to make them a more flush fit however. I may canabelize(SP?) this RF and take it apart, if possible, when I get my "other" helmet in the next few weeks.
Lynn
 
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Originally posted by rkrish:

I just installed the LED lights in my rangefinder. I used 2 watch batteries to power it. I used the 2 smallest red LED lights from Radio Shack and connected them to a switch housed in the RF. I figured I would turn it on and off after I wear my suit. I hope the batteries will last that long. Overall, they look pretty close to how the movie helmet shows them to be. Unfortunatey they don't blink. RS doesn't carry blinking lights in that size, nor do I know how to build them to blink. If anyone knows how to make regular lights blink, I'd appreciate the info. Check out my pics below. Thanks.

groups.yahoo.com/group/TU...LedRF1.JPG

groups.yahoo.com/group/TU...LedRF2.JPG

groups.yahoo.com/group/TU...htsoff.JPG

groups.yahoo.com/group/TU...ghtson.jpg

Fett MD
 
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Originally posted by ShackMan:

Glancing in the new catalog, the only blinking LEDs we show are T-1 3/4 size. The small ones (what I consider small anyway) are T-1.

Matter of fact, I've never seen T-1 flashing LEDs personally. They may make them, but I've never seen them. I'd use T-1 LEDs with a 555 timer circuit. If you're really good with a soldering iron, you could use surface mount parts and not take up much space at all. Of course, you'd want to be VERY confident in your soldering skills to use SMT parts. ;)

Good luck,

ATM

Rapier wit? This is the end of the twentieth century! I'm using a laser sighted under-and-over twin barrelled wit, with a 7.62 mm floating breech pulse rifle firing caseless one-liners on top, and a 40mm explosive gag launcher underneath. For backup I've got a 14mm pump shotgun firing flechette rounds with 10 barbed comments in each, which can also shoot sabot ego-piercing rounds. Of course when all else fails, there's always the trusty flamethrower which I've strapped to my pulse rifle with duct tape in the approved style.
 
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Originally posted by TK0000:

5mm Blinking red LED 2.8 volt (3.8v/max)
Radios shack
276-308
$1.39each
The bulb is small and clear but flashes red.
The flashes are about 118 BPM according to a Qwick Time Quartz Metronome.

Hook up:
Using two for the range finder I tried several ways of hooking them up. Long wire on one and short on the other. Turning them on at different times. And other odd ball things too, but the end result was always the same. The easiest way I found was connecting them to the same wires. It may not be tech. right, but it works.

Result:
Awesome!! to me anyway. each light was almost exactly blinking like the other, but it goes like this.............Have you ever been sitting at a turn light and been hypnotized by everyone’s turn signals in front of you. For a while they blink together, then start to separate, then blink opposite if each other, then one direction, then another, then together again and so on and so on. The timing was off just a little on each light. For the price I like!

Lithium battery CR2032 3volt
Radio shack
23-162
Price: couple bucks


Lithium battery holder
Radio shack
Part number??? Left over from another project.

Push on/off switch
undecided

Everything should fit inside range finder. I will probably hot glue it together so I can take apart easier if and when I need to replace batteries or lights.



edit: battery voltage
 
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Originally posted by ShackMan:

Running a 2.8V LED off a 3V source won't last too long (relatively speaking). You're LED won't light after the battery drops below the 2.8V threshold, which is well before the battery would be considered dead (say, in another circuit). You might try using 2 of the batteries in series, and putting a current limiting resistor in series with the LEDs. This will reduce the current drain of the LEDs, as well as giving you more leeway on the source voltage (ie, you'll get more use out of the batteries). Of course, you could also parallel the batteries to double the capacity ... but I know ... I'm babbling again. ;)

Good luck,

ATM

EDIT: Edited to correct *stupid* typos. ;)

Rapier wit? This is the end of the twentieth century! I'm using a laser sighted under-and-over twin barrelled wit, with a 7.62 mm floating breech pulse rifle firing caseless one-liners on top, and a 40mm explosive gag launcher underneath. For backup I've got a 14mm pump shotgun firing flechette rounds with 10 barbed comments in each, which can also shoot sabot ego-piercing rounds. Of course when all else fails, there's always the trusty flamethrower which I've strapped to my pulse rifle with duct tape in the approved style.
 
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Originally posted by ruadh9978:

Braks,

I saw the first pictures you put up, showing the three different helmets witht he LEDs, but actually the helmet you listed as a pre-production helmet is the Empire helmet again. If you look at the paint scheme, all the pictures on the last page in the Chronicles section on Fett are the Empire helmet. (anyone doing the Empire paint scheme, this'll help out). Compare the paint scheme to the pictures they show later, when they show all the bounty hunters (though, not nearly enough pictures of the others, if you ask me).

How ever, if you look at the second page of the section on Fett, there's the picture of him standing, in the pre-prod suit, with the rangefinder down, you can kinda tell there's LEDs there, if you know what you're looking for. Also the picture next to it, where he's looking to the side, you can kinda see a couple of little bumps on the top.
 
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Originally posted by TK0000:

Hey Shackman,
could you post what resister you were talking about to save the battery life. Thanks!!
 
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Originally posted by ShackMan:

It depends on what arrangement you're talking about. Are you stilll using the flashing LED referenced above? And what source (still 3V)?

Until I hear back from you, what I'll do is check up on that particular LED. I don't use flashing LEDs myself ... I' usually build flasher circuits using standard LEDs. What I'll do is double-check to make sure the built-in flashing circuit doesn't already have a current limiter.

Now, one problem you could have using that LED (based on the specs in the catalog) is with your source voltage. The "typical" rating of the LED is 2.8V, but the maximum drop is 3.8V - which is already higher than your fresh bateries (assuming 3V source). Might try boosting up to 4.5V by add one more battery ... but again, I'll need to know for sure what you're using and check the specs.

Thanks,

ATM

Rapier wit? This is the end of the twentieth century! I'm using a laser sighted under-and-over twin barrelled wit, with a 7.62 mm floating breech pulse rifle firing caseless one-liners on top, and a 40mm explosive gag launcher underneath. For backup I've got a 14mm pump shotgun firing flechette rounds with 10 barbed comments in each, which can also shoot sabot ego-piercing rounds. Of course when all else fails, there's always the trusty flamethrower which I've strapped to my pulse rifle with duct tape in the approved style.
 
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Originally posted by TK0000:

I'm using what I listed for now.
 
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Originally posted by SITHcamaro:

I finally got the step by step pictures of the instalation of the LEDs in my DP deluxe rangefinder....keep in mind that you'll need to cut and paste the URLs...

www.dvader1031.0catch.com/m1.jpg
My reproduction of the cover piece (don't want to destroy the original!)
www.dvader1031.0catch.com/m2.jpg
The view inside of the rangefinder
www.dvader1031.0catch.com/m3.jpg
Beginning to cut down on the thick metal post inside to allow for LED clearance
www.dvader1031.0catch.com/m4.jpg
The underside of the rangefinder top (a little blurry), showing the lithium battery and the 2 blinking LEDs, not pictured is the mercury switch
www.dvader1031.0catch.com/m5.jpg
FINISHED! Lights activate when rengefinder is dropped down (thanks to BB for the suggestion on the mercury switch...not visible switches required!)
 
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Originally posted by ShackMan:

I have what I need to do the range finder lights. Just don't forget to check your e-mail about the chest light parts. I plan on ordering those soon - unless I change my mind due to financial reasons.

Brief rant ... if anyone lives near a CarMax car dealership, DO NOT buy from them. I told them if we had any more trouble with our van, I would make it my life's goal to make sure no one that knows me EVER buys from them again. They have great prices, and great customer service ... but their vehicle servicing i beyond pitiful. My fiancee was stuck on the side of the road AGAIN this morning. The van's going in for the 5th time in 3 months ... but it doesn't qualify under the lemon law. Aaaaargh! Anyway, the reason this applies to our matter is that she's now lost over $700 in wages due to time missed ... which indirectly kills my fun money as well. On top of that, she's now susceptible to losing her job, because it's a union, and she's missed one more day than allowed. Considering she makes more than me - this could KILL my propping. :(

But anyway, I'm trying to wrap up a project for a friend here at work (a circuit to let your computer turn-on and off a coffee maker). Once I get that done, or at least reach a decent stopping point, I'll breadboard the RF circuit and give BB a breakdown of the wiring.

Thanks,

ATM

Rapier wit? This is the end of the twentieth century! I'm using a laser sighted under-and-over twin barrelled wit, with a 7.62 mm floating breech pulse rifle firing caseless one-liners on top, and a 40mm explosive gag launcher underneath. For backup I've got a 14mm pump shotgun firing flechette rounds with 10 barbed comments in each, which can also shoot sabot ego-piercing rounds. Of course when all else fails, there's always the trusty flamethrower which I've strapped to my pulse rifle with duct tape in the approved style.
 
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Originally posted by TK0000:

If you get a circut for both pieces will you let me know.
 
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Originally posted by Lynn TXP 0369:

I just won a set of the mercury switchs off eBay..... $5.45 shipped
The guy has a ton of them listed on eBay now...
Lynn
 
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Originally posted by Skaught77:

I just bought a voice recorder kit from www.qkits.com/. They sell all sorts of small electronic kits, including blinking LEDs, running LEDS, and others. The company is in Canada so make sure to click on the US $ price list. I forgot about the $$ difference and when I got my kit I was "WHAT!? $12.50 shipping!?!?". They included a catalog with lots of neat stuff.

I picked up the voice recorder and a motion detector curcuit from somewhere else to rig a Gonk droid to go "GONK" when someone walks by.

Right now, though....I'm staring at this old Sony Watchman b/w tv and wonder what cool thing I could do with the screen! Install it in my Fett helmet with a camera on the backpack to see who is making fun of me from behind?!?!?! Wouldn't that freak people out to have Fett suddenly turn around on them making gestures at him from behind?

Scott




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Originally posted by TK0000:

Finished range finder lights with mercury tilt on/off. 2 pics
Parts and blink pattern decribed in previous post. Still may add a resister?


All of the electronics are attached to the front plate. Battery holder is atached with velcro.


It took about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
 
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Originally posted by Braks Buddy:

TK0000, that is awesome!!! Your LED placement is PERFECT! Everything is small and appears lightweight. It just looks awesome!! Can you put up a detailed tutorial for it? I do have a few questions... In the one pic it appears BOTH lights are on and they appear VERY bright. Why are they both on at the same time? Can you make them where they are not so bright???


 
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