Bonding to a white vinyl DP95...what to use?

Prymer13

Well-Known Hunter
I just received a DP95 that I am preparing to modify, repair and rework. Although I really want to jump right in, my mind tells me to ask a couple questions first.

1. The interior feels tacky. Might it be from the heat it was traveling in?

2. I am going to try and make this into a Reveal Helmet, so I plan on resclupting or atleast cleaning up the interior. Can I use regular bondo?

3. Is Epoxy resin what I should use to attach any greeblies?

4. How many licks does it take to get to the center of a Tootsie Roll Tootsie Pop?

Any help on any one (or all) of these questions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Darren
 

cal196

Well-Known Hunter
I have the same helmet.

1. It could be, did you happen to paint the inside with anything? if you did some paint does not set up and will be tacky forever.

2. Yes Wal-mart bondo works good, all I did was cover the incorrect scratches and the writing on the back but it did good.

3. No do not use epoxy, it gets to hard on the soft plastic and breaks off. Use crazy glue for plastics.

4. The world will never know.
 

Prymer13

Well-Known Hunter
Thanks for the quick reply.
The interior is real glossy, so I am toying with the idea of sanding the areas that I want to add stuff to before I either glue them, or put a bondo build up on it. My main area for the bond work I think is going to be the front of the mandibles so I have a nice unifor surface to attach my visor to. Ideas? Input?

Thanks.
Darren
 

cal196

Well-Known Hunter
I just cut the old visor out, sanded the whole helmet with 500 grit sandpaper, and taped the inside with masking tape where I knew the visor would need to be glued, then I modified it. Everywhere I glued a piece to the helmet itself I scored it with crosshatching from an exacto knive, and it has shown no signs of coming apart.

Also be sure to primer the whole helmet with Laquer Enamel- specificaly Gray Dupli-Color Automotive filler primer. Then just use regular Acylic Enamel. dont use any other Laquer car paint or that fusion stuff , it will not dry.

I screwed up my first dp95 helmet so bad I had to throw it away becuase it was literaly ruined, I learned the very hard way.

Just remember to put the visor in last lol.
 

Prymer13

Well-Known Hunter
Ok, Cal..now that I have you answering my slew of questions (thanks for the helpful input by the way) here is my next:

My bucket still has the vinyl across the visor area. This spot as well as a couple of other touch-up areas need to be trimmed (the rear vents being another). Do you think a dremel is over kill, or would a simple razor/utility knife or X-acto do the job?
 

Gator Fett

Active Hunter
If I may jump in, I just got done ten minutes ago, cutting out my DP96 visor and rear vents. I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel for the visor, and a zip bit for the vents. I started on the visor with an exacto knife, but the vinyl is thick enough the it would have taken a couple of hours to whittle away with the knife. The Dremel cut through the visor like butter. Once I got the big pieces removed, I cleaned up the edges with the exacto.

The cutting wheel was real easy to control, but the zip bit wanted to wander out of the vent holes and into the back of my helmet. If you use the zip bit, turn the speed down, try to rest the helmet in your lap, and use both hands to guide the bit.

Good Luck,
Gator
 

mattstrikesback

New Hunter
use an exacto knife. just take your time. it worked wonders for my back vents. the dremel is jsut so fast, your hand must be solid rock for it to work. so an exacto knife cuts it like butter and is well maintained.

-matt
 

Prymer13

Well-Known Hunter
Thanks Gator! That's pretty much what I thought. I have a couple of the abrasive cutting wheels so I'll start slow with those and see how they do.

I have a bit of a shopping list compiled now ;)

Matt: Based on yours and Gator's input that area is going to be my slow, careful stage.

Thanks
Darren
 

cal196

Well-Known Hunter
If you have a dremel go ahead and use it but what i did was fill my sink up with hot water set it in there for 10 minutes then took it out and cut the visor and back sections out super easy with a hobbie knive.
 

BigaboyFett

Active Hunter
I got my DP95 yesterday. I cut the visor out with a box cutter 2 hours ago...almost stabbed myself in the gut. I am worn out. Plus it smells like rotten apple sauce and is tight as can be.

I have a big head...I tested the plexi visor I bought 6 months ago. I tested putting it on. Very tight and hot...no room for a fan. help. No, I do not have $200 bucks for a Mystery Helmet either.

Can you lightly sand and wash and then re-prime it, or does it have to be sanded bare white?
 

cal196

Well-Known Hunter

BigaboyFett wrote:

I got my DP95 yesterday. I cut the visor out with a box cutter 2 hours ago...almost stabbed myself in the gut. I am worn out. Plus it smells like rotten apple sauce and is tight as can be.

I have a big head...I tested the plexi visor I bought 6 months ago. I tested putting it on. Very tight and hot...no room for a fan. help. No, I do not have $200 bucks for a Mystery Helmet either.

Can you lightly sand and wash and then re-prime it, or does it have to be sanded bare white?
:lol:

you can sand and wash and reprime it should not hurt anything, plus I would reshape it to your head so it doesnt smash your nose. If your careful you can open the visor up a little and give yuorself another inch without it looking bad. I didnt have any problems the helmet is huge on me, I guess i am lucky.
 

Prymer13

Well-Known Hunter
Yeah, I was looking at a couple of spare CPU fans thatI had and both are small enough to work for me. I would think, depending on the shape of your head, you could mount the fan right on your neck where your head slopes back. (maybe I have an odd shaped head).

I was told that you could also break out a hair dryer to help with the shape modifications :D From what I have seen, some good advise is: keep it moving ;).
 
I would heat the helmet and use an exacto blade. The only problem with this is the warm vynil will cut too good. Sit it a nice wram bathtub full of warm water and cut slowly.
 

TBone

Active Hunter
The trick with cutting with a dremel is TAKE YOUR TIME. be careful of each cut, because if you slip up you can remove a lot of material very quickly.

It is what I used on my DP '96. After I finished cutting, I filed the edges down smooth.
 
also, strip the thing with Dio sol. It has a thin coat of paint so it washes off pretty quick, just make sure you have a well ventilated area. The diosol will not hurt Vinyl. Just keep it away from any styrene you have around.

I have a thing with stripping I like have a 'clean canvas' to work on.
 

Prymer13

Well-Known Hunter
Ok, I prepped the surface a bit and decide to go get some basecoat paint (Aluminum/Silver). I remember several members mentioning Testors Brand paint. When I was checking the label, it specifically mentioned that it was not to be used on VINYL....

Do you guys think if a good coverage of primer is laid on that I can still use the Testors?
 

cal196

Well-Known Hunter
I wouldnt, I used regular silver krylon and most people here are painting on fiberglass, you run the risk of the paint never curing and the helmet will just be tacky all the time, worse yet if it doesnt dry and you just paint over it you got a real mess.

I mean you can try, but if you want a sure thing that you know will dry there it is.
 

Prymer13

Well-Known Hunter
Just the info I was looking for Cal, thanks again.
I am grabbing the primer you mentioned in your second post here tomorrow. If it wouldn't be too much trouble could you e-mail or PM me with the list of colors you used?

(Doing a ROTJ bucket here)

Thanks again
Darren
 
Top