Wax paper, graphite paper?

[Short4ATrooper]

I’m having a hard time with the templates, specifically transferring them on to the helmet.

What kind of transfer paper do you use? I’m in the U.K. so ‘wax paper’ is just baking paper here, I have graphite paper but it’s a nightmare. I have to press quite hard for the lines to show up, then of course I have dark pencil lines that won’t come off and graphite everywhere from leaning on the paper.

I can’t get my head around *how* everyone does this seemingly so easy?

On a similar subject, (ultimately the answer to this question is obviously subjective) but in general: how much detail should I be going for with these templates? (RafalFetts). Are they just supposed to be used to get the general layout of the damage patterns or do people try to copy every little detail?

I can paint the masking fluid on in quite high detail but as I say, getting the actual marks on to the helmet seems impossible to me using the transfer paper method.

Any help or advice is appreciated.

 

[ShortFuse]

I used to use transfer paper, but had difficulty with it due to the two sets of paper and keeping it straight. I started using a method I got from superjedi. I started printing out the color separated RafalFett templates onto tracing paper. I use a mechanical pencil on the reverse side of the paper and then once I set it in place, I trace the top side of the paper and it leaves the shape onto the helmet. The tracing paper is much easier to work with due to its thinness and since it is semi transparent, I find it easier to place it exactly where I want it. I believe superjedi has a tutorial here somewhere and can explain it better than I can.

 

[ShortFuse]

To answer your second question:

Some of the master painters here can capture every detail. Usually with the templates, you get the general shapes and then you will need to go back and get some of the finer details by hand. Like you said, it is always up to personal preference how much detail goes into it.

 

[Short4ATrooper]

Ok, that makes sense. Being new to Fett helmets, I'm not really sure of the standards. I've seen a few of the "master painter's" jobs and they are incredible. I want to do the absolute best job I can, to the best of my abilities.

I'll try the tracing paper method, thank you!

 

[Expo180]

Perhaps this vid might help...?

You can purchase the tracedown paper (the white version) that he uses from Amazon UK.

White Tracedown Paper

Cheaper option with various stylus included

 

[Jimbo]

Here's what I did.... I took Rafa's stencils.... Cut them out. I then took those cut outs and glued them to the tracing paper using stick glue. Then I cut the stencils again off of the tracing paper. So I had the stencil and the tracing paper together. I smaller piece to use and much easier to man handle. I did use every dot, blotch, scrape and so on from the stencil and as others suggested, I went back afterwards, and used free hand to fill in some areas. I put in over 100 hours on my helmet. One other suggestion, I read somewhere that a guy printed Rafa's stencils directly on the tracing paper which would cut out a step for sure. Of course when I found that tip, I had just finished all my tracing. .... Next time perhaps. Best of luck. Take your time.

 

[DennisFett1142]

Here's what I did.... I took Rafa's stencils.... Cut them out. I then took those cut outs and glued them to the tracing paper using stick glue. Then I cut the stencils again off of the tracing paper. So I had the stencil and the tracing paper together. I smaller piece to use and much easier to man handle. I did use every dot, blotch, scrape and so on from the stencil and as others suggested, I went back afterwards, and used free hand to fill in some areas. I put in over 100 hours on my helmet. One other suggestion, I read somewhere that a guy printed Rafa's stencils directly on the tracing paper which would cut out a step for sure. Of course when I found that tip, I had just finished all my tracing. .... Next time perhaps. Best of luck. Take your time.

Yep, I print the stencils on the tracing paper and it works great and really helps ensuring you're placing the stencil in the right place relevant to things already painted and physical damage. 100 hours is about right if you really want it done right.

 

[Short4ATrooper]

The method I’ve taken to is cutting the damage out from the templates with an exacto. Yes this is as time consuming as it sounds, but I can get a lot of detail that way.

Then I have some re-positionable adhesive. I barely spray the back of the stencils with this which makes them tacky enough to stick to the helmet. It’s great stuff, zero residue.

Then I just use the cut out parts to trace the damage.

I don’t think this helmet is going to be too accurate as the proportions are so far out of whack. I had to stretch and warp Raf’s templates something crazy to get them to remotely fit and even then, they’re still not quite right. That’s ok though, this one is just to practice the process before I do my BM helmet.

The problem I have with any method involving tracing is transferring it to the helmet and keeping the templates in place on the surface, particularly with areas like the left ear. That’s why I like my current method because the re-positional spray holds it in place enough without leaving any sticky residue or peeling paint or anything drastic like that.

The other issue with using transfer paper is how the hell do you get rid of the pencil marks? I guess just press lightly but then it’s not hard enough to transfer through.

When it comes to my proper helmet, I plan to take a lot more time over it to get every detail. I have no problem with agonising over minutiae - hence taking the time to cut the templates with an exacto!

I can see areas of the back panel I’ve done so far that aren’t accurate enough for my standards but as I say - it’s a practice run and it’ll do for a display piece!

 

[Short4ATrooper]

Yep, I print the stencils on the tracing paper and it works great and really helps ensuring you're placing the stencil in the right place relevant to things already painted and physical damage. 100 hours is about right if you really want it done right.

Major breakthrough for me tonight! I tried this and also fixed an issue I was having with printing.

I recently got a printer and could not get it to print at 100% scale which meant no matter how accurate I got the templates on screen, they never printed to scale. It was as if the printer was automatically scaling down by 5%.

I've been using GIMP to scale my templates and for anyone else who does the same, make sure you do the following:

view > dot for dot

Make sure the checkbox next to 'dot to dot' is unchecked.

Boom. Instant fix. So, I gave printing to tracing paper a try, transferred the template that way and it's so much better so thank you.

Any tips on getting rid of pencil marks though?

 

[DennisFett1142]

Major breakthrough for me tonight! I tried this and also fixed an issue I was having with printing.

I recently got a printer and could not get it to print at 100% scale which meant no matter how accurate I got the templates on screen, they never printed to scale. It was as if the printer was automatically scaling down by 5%.

I've been using GIMP to scale my templates and for anyone else who does the same, make sure you do the following:

view > dot for dot

Make sure the checkbox next to 'dot to dot' is unchecked.

Boom. Instant fix. So, I gave printing to tracing paper a try, transferred the template that way and it's so much better so thank you.

Any tips on getting rid of pencil marks though?

Magic eraser works but gotta be super careful not to remove or smudge paint. What I've done is trace the stencil slightly outside the lines then mask INSIDE those lines and the pencil lines are then painted over. It's tricky though and easy to get the stencil size inaccurate. Happened to me on my ESB kill stripes...

 

[Short4ATrooper]

Magic eraser works but gotta be super careful not to remove or smudge paint. What I've done is trace the stencil slightly outside the lines then mask INSIDE those lines and the pencil lines are then painted over. It's tricky though and easy to get the stencil size inaccurate. Happened to me on my ESB kill stripes...

Yea that’s what I’ve been doing. I tried magic eraser earlier but couldn’t seem to budge them so I’ve just been doing the same as you - go slightly larger and then fill the fluid just shy of my lines.