Taking My Best Shot: Robo's ESB Fett
- Thread starter RoboTarot
- Start date
Matty Matt
Active Hunter
Looking good. The center of the diamond should be white. I actually just cut a white piece of plastic and stuck it in mine so it wasn't so recessed.
RoboTarot
Hunter
I appreciate it! I'm really looking forward to your sidearm and holster.
I'm definitely stealing the white plastic idea for the center diamond - not that it would be the first time I've stolen an idea from you or your thread
!
RoboTarot
Hunter
I've finished all of the paint chip weathering and put a few washes over all green parts. For me it was a lot like faux finishing, but keeping it super light, building up many layers upon each other. I still need to knock down the chest emblem and grunge it up a bit.
After checking back at references, I feel like there is much more to the "washes". Am I crazy, or is anyone else seeing some (light) browns and perhaps a bit of yellow smudged on there? Maybe a little light green?
After checking back at references, I feel like there is much more to the "washes". Am I crazy, or is anyone else seeing some (light) browns and perhaps a bit of yellow smudged on there? Maybe a little light green?
RoboTarot
Hunter
I got around to sewing my neck seal and am by NO MEANS a seamstress, but can shove pins in stuff and pull fabric through a sewing machine. Here we go...
I followed the LadySewforus tutorial for my first go round. It is great that people are willing to share their process o help others! You can find her thread here:
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f20/neckseal-101-pic-intensive-23563/
The sewing on my part wasn't the best. I sewed in the batting to give the ribs a "puffy" look and tested some gray dye on my material. I was given some leftover satin fabric that was an ivory color and had a sheen that closely resembled the tackle twill material needed, however, the color was wrong. The finished product looked okay, but not great.
There were two main issues I had with the piece.
1. I wasn't sure about the accuracy of the ribs and
2. I was unhappy with how the bib/dickie laid down around my shoulders (it tended to bunch and flair in odd ways)
After looking at screenshots and seeing a batninja neck seal in person, I decided to make the ribs a bit differently. I measured and ironed the fabric to have folds between each rib. The ironing was enough to keep the crease, but I still put tiny tack stitches on the backside to make sure the ribs wouldn't open up on me. The back side of the neck seal (the side facing in against my neck) was lined with a white cotton bottomweight fabric. It's cheap-ish and I didn't want to run out of the expensive satin material. Also, I was unsure of how the satin fabric would interact with a bunch of sweating (because I hear that happens a little while in this costume...).
I sewed a square of fabric to run behind the opening at the front of the neck seal. I knew I wanted to have this version close with hook and eyes (unlike my first attempt which was velcro only), but I also wanted a velcro backup on this one. Using a chopstick helped to push out the corners and get the shape where I needed and then an iron finished off the rest.
Now it's starting to kinda look something like a neck seal. Break for lunch! Yet another good use for a chopstick
The hook and eyes seemed impossibly tiny to actually do anything with, but I started stitching anyway. These all had to be done by hand, an experience that gave way to proving just how much of a noob I was with a needle and thread and how much I really should've invested in a thimble (aka fingertip armor) or ten.
The last sewing task was to create a bib/dickie/skirt/thingyatthebottom. The curves and angles were beyond me and my maths. I wanted it to fit like a shirt would so I cannibalized one to use the shoulder and collar area as a template. I stitched the seams down the center of the shoulders and attached the entire bib to the bottom of the neck seal. I used some Rit dye for the final step to get the gray color of the screen used neck seal and flak vest. I found that only leaving it in the dye for about 10-15 minutes while constantly stirring the garments gave it a "not too dark" shade that I liked!
P.S. If anyone wants a killer deal on a "First Attempt Neck Seal Horror Show", hit me up. I have one (see above)
I followed the LadySewforus tutorial for my first go round. It is great that people are willing to share their process o help others! You can find her thread here:
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f20/neckseal-101-pic-intensive-23563/
The sewing on my part wasn't the best. I sewed in the batting to give the ribs a "puffy" look and tested some gray dye on my material. I was given some leftover satin fabric that was an ivory color and had a sheen that closely resembled the tackle twill material needed, however, the color was wrong. The finished product looked okay, but not great.
There were two main issues I had with the piece.
1. I wasn't sure about the accuracy of the ribs and
2. I was unhappy with how the bib/dickie laid down around my shoulders (it tended to bunch and flair in odd ways)
After looking at screenshots and seeing a batninja neck seal in person, I decided to make the ribs a bit differently. I measured and ironed the fabric to have folds between each rib. The ironing was enough to keep the crease, but I still put tiny tack stitches on the backside to make sure the ribs wouldn't open up on me. The back side of the neck seal (the side facing in against my neck) was lined with a white cotton bottomweight fabric. It's cheap-ish and I didn't want to run out of the expensive satin material. Also, I was unsure of how the satin fabric would interact with a bunch of sweating (because I hear that happens a little while in this costume...).
I sewed a square of fabric to run behind the opening at the front of the neck seal. I knew I wanted to have this version close with hook and eyes (unlike my first attempt which was velcro only), but I also wanted a velcro backup on this one. Using a chopstick helped to push out the corners and get the shape where I needed and then an iron finished off the rest.
Now it's starting to kinda look something like a neck seal. Break for lunch! Yet another good use for a chopstick
The hook and eyes seemed impossibly tiny to actually do anything with, but I started stitching anyway. These all had to be done by hand, an experience that gave way to proving just how much of a noob I was with a needle and thread and how much I really should've invested in a thimble (aka fingertip armor) or ten.
The last sewing task was to create a bib/dickie/skirt/thingyatthebottom. The curves and angles were beyond me and my maths. I wanted it to fit like a shirt would so I cannibalized one to use the shoulder and collar area as a template. I stitched the seams down the center of the shoulders and attached the entire bib to the bottom of the neck seal. I used some Rit dye for the final step to get the gray color of the screen used neck seal and flak vest. I found that only leaving it in the dye for about 10-15 minutes while constantly stirring the garments gave it a "not too dark" shade that I liked!
P.S. If anyone wants a killer deal on a "First Attempt Neck Seal Horror Show", hit me up. I have one (see above)
Last edited by a moderator:
Wasted Fett
Literally Asian
i need to score some of those plastic boxes!
RoboTarot
Hunter
You're in luck! My workplace had some more tape cases they were trashing so I scooped them up! If you'd like to pay me for the shipping container and cost to wherever you live, I can send you a set. I assume you will want 4 of them?
Thanks! I can definitely see why neck seals and flak vests are so expensive to buy, with all the time it took me to piece these together.
RoboTarot
Hunter
Next up: shin tools. I'll be performing a hack job on these things:
Although, I doubt I will do as fine a job in craftsmanship and in documenting the process as The5thHorseman did on his thread:
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f20/shin-tools-build-using-paterson-original-found-parts-52156/
Some good stuff there, check it out!
Although, I doubt I will do as fine a job in craftsmanship and in documenting the process as The5thHorseman did on his thread:
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f20/shin-tools-build-using-paterson-original-found-parts-52156/
Some good stuff there, check it out!
Last edited by a moderator:
Wasted Fett
Literally Asian
pm coming your way
The5thHorseman
Hunter
I'm sure you will nail the shin tools just like you are nailing the rest of your build! You're impressive man.
And your armor paintjob looks really nice. I would just tune down the dark grey splatters on the right/hand chest plate, right now they're too much visible.
And your armor paintjob looks really nice. I would just tune down the dark grey splatters on the right/hand chest plate, right now they're too much visible.
RoboTarot
Hunter
Just responded to your PM with calculated shipping to your location.
RoboTarot
Hunter
No sweat, man! Just keep telling yourself how cool this project is and that it should be fun, right? There are some frustrations along the way, but I can't wait to see kids faces in the local Children's Hospital or hike out on the International Balloon Fiesta grounds with my fellow 501st as Fett!
I will break out the steel wool and green paint tonight to knock down that Lark Dark Grey a bit on the right chest. Thank you for the critique, it helps to get an opinion outside my little bubble of old Fett reference photos and find out if others are seeing things that I am not!
Last edited by a moderator:
Matty Matt
Active Hunter
Impressive as usual. I agree about that gray. You could tone it down with some light misting. Not a big deal.
RoboTarot
Hunter
I was able to knock down the dark grey a bit on the right chest and re-weather with some dark washes. I also added the grunge area to the lower left section of the chest emblem. For the center diamond, I cut out some white vinyl I had laying around and stuck it in the center. I figured it would be easy to remove or alter if it was the wrong size, etc. So, if everything is in working order, I'm going to spray the pieces with clear matte enamel tonight and glue plastic screws to the backs of them.
Quick question: Does the orange on the right shoulder seem like a decent base color to start? I'll be weathering them this weekend and need a good starting point!
Quick question: Does the orange on the right shoulder seem like a decent base color to start? I'll be weathering them this weekend and need a good starting point!
RoboTarot
Hunter
I tackled armor attachment next. I purchased a bunch of plastic (nylon?) screws, washers, and nuts to glue on the back of the armor at the attachment points specified in the Raf template. I will run the screws through eyelets that are lined up and punched through the flak vest. Plastic screws are great because they are lightweight and glue to the ABS armor easily with CA glue. I had to sand down the curved heads of all the screws so I had more surface area to adhere to the armor.
I used a punch (from the photo above) and started marking and punching eyelets through the vest. This took a bit of time, being that there are a total of 23 screws/eyelets on all the chest, collar, and shoulders. I was completely nervous about getting the positions of everything right! Once those holes are made, they can't be undone! If need be, the screws can be Dremeled off and re-glued, but that is a bag of worms I don't wish to open...
Finally, all the holes are made and the armor screws are pushed through and attached with the washers and nuts. If I'm not mistaken, I believe this method is similar to how the original armor was attached? I think the positioning is pretty good, with a slightly larger space between the collar and chest plates, the center diamond positioned tightly between the chest plates, and abdomen a little lower. I am unsure about the amount of flak vest visible below the bottom of the ab plate. Is it too much? I can hem it if I need to.
I used a punch (from the photo above) and started marking and punching eyelets through the vest. This took a bit of time, being that there are a total of 23 screws/eyelets on all the chest, collar, and shoulders. I was completely nervous about getting the positions of everything right! Once those holes are made, they can't be undone! If need be, the screws can be Dremeled off and re-glued, but that is a bag of worms I don't wish to open...
Finally, all the holes are made and the armor screws are pushed through and attached with the washers and nuts. If I'm not mistaken, I believe this method is similar to how the original armor was attached? I think the positioning is pretty good, with a slightly larger space between the collar and chest plates, the center diamond positioned tightly between the chest plates, and abdomen a little lower. I am unsure about the amount of flak vest visible below the bottom of the ab plate. Is it too much? I can hem it if I need to.
RoboTarot
Hunter
I tried a little experiment by subtracting and sanding wet paint with a fine grit sandpaper. I used flat black and a maroon/brown color to lay down a few darkened areas and started messing with it. I'll be adding some more soft black and then the silver "chipped" areas next. I really like the grungy feel (I've never been a fan of the soft sprayed look), but am afraid the dark spots may be a too prevalent and, more so, a bit inaccurate. Thoughts?
RoboTarot
Hunter
Keeping busy! I resprayed my right shoulder a bit, I didn't like the very dark splatters.
I was recently messaged and asked to share my process for weathering armor. I'm very flattered, seeing as there are so many awesome, more qualified painters on these boards, but I'll attempt to explain what I do in the photo below:
1. Create a wash with a dark acrylic paint. You can use pure black, but I find things to look a bit more interesting if you don't. The ratio of water to paint will always be changing depending on how much stain you wish to keep on the armor. Generously brush and dab on the wash. I like to move in sections, picking a corner to start before moving on to another corner.
2. I use a paper towel to pat the area that was just washed, removing most (almost all) of the liquid I originally laid down, but leaving a tiny bit behind to mimic a stain.
3. I usually build up many of these layers throughout the object I'm weathering, washing and dabbing the area dry. Don't be too worried about building up many layers because they can be knocked back a bit by step 4.
4. A very fine steel wool (00) can be used to remove the heavy areas.
5. Applying the washes, removing bits with steel wool, and then repeating the process over and over again adds a bit of depth and tends to create a well-worn, realistic look.
I've gone through spraying the base colors and stencils, applying some darks while the paint was still wet (to make things look a little dirty), painted the "chipped" areas with silvers and grays, and then, lastly, weathered everything with a series of washes. Here is my end result. My final step for these will be a hearty coat of matte enamel spray to take out any shine and seal them up. I should be able to have these attached to the flak vest and call them done before the weekend is through!
I was recently messaged and asked to share my process for weathering armor. I'm very flattered, seeing as there are so many awesome, more qualified painters on these boards, but I'll attempt to explain what I do in the photo below:
1. Create a wash with a dark acrylic paint. You can use pure black, but I find things to look a bit more interesting if you don't. The ratio of water to paint will always be changing depending on how much stain you wish to keep on the armor. Generously brush and dab on the wash. I like to move in sections, picking a corner to start before moving on to another corner.
2. I use a paper towel to pat the area that was just washed, removing most (almost all) of the liquid I originally laid down, but leaving a tiny bit behind to mimic a stain.
3. I usually build up many of these layers throughout the object I'm weathering, washing and dabbing the area dry. Don't be too worried about building up many layers because they can be knocked back a bit by step 4.
4. A very fine steel wool (00) can be used to remove the heavy areas.
5. Applying the washes, removing bits with steel wool, and then repeating the process over and over again adds a bit of depth and tends to create a well-worn, realistic look.
I've gone through spraying the base colors and stencils, applying some darks while the paint was still wet (to make things look a little dirty), painted the "chipped" areas with silvers and grays, and then, lastly, weathered everything with a series of washes. Here is my end result. My final step for these will be a hearty coat of matte enamel spray to take out any shine and seal them up. I should be able to have these attached to the flak vest and call them done before the weekend is through!
Similar threads
