rubio95's FPH2 - RotJ WIP

rubio95

Active Hunter
Took a little break from the RotJ to work on a side project. Next step is to drop a gallon of clear coat on her and polish. Looking sharp, so far!

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Fett 4 Real

Sr Hunter
Community Staff
Took a little break from the RotJ to work on a side project. Next step is to drop a gallon of clear coat on her and polish. Looking sharp, so far!

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Oh how I remember the headache of painting a white helmet for a friend
 
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MLS

Hunter
Yeh....I spent about 40 bucks on reds this year....I had an equivalent for it but it evades me at the moment. I want to say its british crimson from model masters....BUT don't quote me on that. The rock island maroon is a long gone color, I bought 3 bottles of it after I was told about it myself.
I have quite a few reds on hand right now. I read this last night and decided to smear a few streaks with my finger. The way it came out, the RI maroon was closest to caboose. Really close actually. I also layed down some bristish crimson and a custom mix that I use. My mix was close, a slightly more red than brown. The BC was a much deeper red.

The mix I use is a 1:1:1 humbrol 73, caboose, and caboose red. I could probably use a 2:2:1 and lessen the caboose red. I prefer my mix. The caboose looks brown every time.
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rubio95

Active Hunter
I have quite a few reds on hand right now. I read this last night and decided to smear a few streaks with my finger. The way it came out, the RI maroon was closest to caboose. Really close actually. I also layed down some bristish crimson and a custom mix that I use. My mix was close, a slightly more red than brown. The BC was a much deeper red.

The mix I use is a 1:1:1 humbrol 73, caboose, and caboose red. I could probably use a 2:2:1 and lessen the caboose red. I prefer my mix. The caboose looks brown every time.
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This is a very interesting mix, MLS. Thank you for posting your custom concoction!

I've been doing a lot of digging around in the last few weeks, and my research all points to Caboose. Perhaps a vintage bottle would be best, as the mix might be a tad different than what we have now, but overall, Caboose is the winner. The way that the light shifts the color, deep red in some situations, and a duller red in others, is frustrating, but still seems to me to be correct.

Sandy and her paintup was/is a total chameleon lol!

I've reached the 80% mark, give or take, and I decided to take some time to do a little impromptu shoot. Feedback, good or bad, is appreciated, as always. I'm sooooo jealous of AFFO$, he seems to be able to effortlessly churn out champion paintups!

Much more to do, and I'll tell ya, the rangefinder ear is a total PITA (c'mon, Dakota, get those metal ears going), but I'm pleased overall.

Let me know how I'm doing....

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MLS

Hunter
Lookin very good. All my research and color matching points to caboose as well. I just picked up 2 more bottles of it last week. Tested against the remnants of my old bottle, there was some brown mixed in with my last caboose bottle producing a rustier look than there should have been. Your paintup looks great.
 

5326Commcando

Jr Hunter
Awesome work Man! Using Jayvees and your paintup as my guidance. The applied damage based upon the stencils has been the most difficult part with a dremel. A true work of art on your end, and something you should be proud of!
 

AFettFullofDollars

Well-Known Hunter
That is FREAKING AWESOME!!! Looks like it's straight out of the Lucasfilm Archives! Spot On with those ROTJ colors!!!
 
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Boochman

Hunter
That is a thing of beauty Rubio!

question about masking technique: did you mask and peel between each paint layer, or did you peel at the end of each section (just keep adding to the masking on the layer underneath)...?
 

rubio95

Active Hunter
Wow! Thank you for all the kind words, gents! Truth is, I'm just Forrest Gump-ing my way through this. I've been standing on the shoulders of giants (Jayvee, AFFO$, rafalfett...etc)!

That is a thing of beauty Rubio!

question about masking technique: did you mask and peel between each paint layer, or did you peel at the end of each section (just keep adding to the masking on the layer underneath)...?
Great question, Booch! But kind of complicated to answer. In general, I've left masking on until all MAJOR colors and misting is completed. But, as you can see, the helmet is no longer masked at all, but I've continued adding details.

What I've tried to do is continue adding details, masking where necessary, but adding small amounts of masking here and there for fine details. I've switched out my airbrush needle from .5 (wider spraying area) to .35 (finer, tighter coverage). In addition, I've dialed down my air compressor from 20 psi to around 12. This means that a very fine stream of paint comes out of my gun, which in turn leads to more control. That means I don't have to mask much, because so little paint is being sprayed, and at a very low pressure. What THAT does is make your airbrush much more similar to a paintbrush. Very fine and controlled.

I've had to redo several sections, but knowing your air gun and your compressor certainly makes things easier. For the remainder of the paintup, I won't need to mask or tape off and add bags.

I'm sure that's a confusing answer. To simply, once the MAIN colors are laid, masking becomes less and less necessary.

It's HARD to fight the urge to remove masking between colors. If you can at least restrict that urge to the MAIN colors, you'll be fine.
 

Boochman

Hunter
Wow! Thank you for all the kind words, gents! Truth is, I'm just Forrest Gump-ing my way through this. I've been standing on the shoulders of giants (Jayvee, AFFO$, rafalfett...etc)!



Great question, Booch! But kind of complicated to answer. In general, I've left masking on until all MAJOR colors and misting is completed. But, as you can see, the helmet is no longer masked at all, but I've continued adding details.

What I've tried to do is continue adding details, masking where necessary, but adding small amounts of masking here and there for fine details. I've switched out my airbrush needle from .5 (wider spraying area) to .35 (finer, tighter coverage). In addition, I've dialed down my air compressor from 20 psi to around 12. This means that a very fine stream of paint comes out of my gun, which in turn leads to more control. That means I don't have to mask much, because so little paint is being sprayed, and at a very low pressure. What THAT does is make your airbrush much more similar to a paintbrush. Very fine and controlled.

I've had to redo several sections, but knowing your air gun and your compressor certainly makes things easier. For the remainder of the paintup, I won't need to mask or tape off and add bags.

I'm sure that's a confusing answer. To simply, once the MAIN colors are laid, masking becomes less and less necessary.

It's HARD to fight the urge to remove masking between colors. If you can at least restrict that urge to the MAIN colors, you'll be fine.
So...haha, you answered my question, and I'm pretty sure I understand your response - you went section by section (back panels, lower cheek, upper cheek, etc.), base layer, mask, paint, additional mask, paint yadda-yadda ("you yadda-yadda'd over the best part - Seinfeld) then removed at the END of EACH section of focus - correct?

I understand hitting the itty-bitty details after the fact, as well as overall weathering - which you completely crushed! Just wanted to verify the technique, as I intend to replicate (when I start). Several guys on here peel between each layer of paint, which gives them the benefit of seeing if any areas need touch-ups as they go, but then they have to re-mask, which I imagine is very time consuming.

All in all, your dome looks sick! That's all the newbie questions, for now, hahaha!
 

rubio95

Active Hunter
Slowly filling in the little details. Got the oversprayed green and Caboose on the right lower cheek. And painted up and installed Fettpride's dental files. SUCH a sweet addition to the kit!

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