Rook's Book of Boba Daimyo build.

Rook 3

Jr Hunter
Journal of my Book of Boba Fett build.

What I've invested in so far.

ETSY
=====
Pants, shirt and vest from KohiEnterprises. It was made to measure but a couple of the measurements asked for and supplied didn't match up in the end. Their sizing chart could have been easier to understand. Build quality however was really nice. I need to get the vest shortened by about an inch or so, and the trousers need to be taken way in. I wear a 36 inch waist pants and I'm pretty sure I got a 42 (abdomen diameter, not waist size) from the measurement supplied. Shirt sleeves are the same twill as the rest of the suit, and not the ripstop material. The kama was also the twill material. Despite the sizing issues though the price was exceptionally reasonable for what I got.

Raw silk: ordered from Amazon I think to make the scarf and new kama. Still Need to figure out what fabric to get for the inner liner.
Got a refund from Amazon for the raw silk because it never arrived from overseas. Disappointing. Now I need to find another source.

BOOTS: Accurate Under Armour boots in black.

Spats/toe armor/glove armor: Crowprops, and I'm very pleased with the quality and the sizing was spot on.

GLOVES: EBay black motorcycle gloves and a pair of brown police gloves for inside. The police gloves are SUPER tight though. I may need to see if I can exchange them for one size larger. I did upsize the brown gloves. I was sold on the black gloves, but I discovered that they're not quite right. They'll probably work for now, but will need to be replaced in the future as the ribbed sections are actually too far down the fingers for accuracy.

Helmet: for now, I'll be using my black series Mando S2 Boba helmet. Plan on swapping it out in the future. Ordered a replacement darker visor from Opleprops in Germany. *Installed the new visor. It's so much nicer/darker.*

Does anyone sell replacement more accurate ears for these helmets? Would like a new rangefinder stalk and slimmer ear panel.

Armor and jetpack: got a complete set including vambraces from 3Dcauldron on Etsy. Fast printing and about 95 percent useable without major work. The chest display holes however are way too small, so I'll be cutting those larger. Just started sanding and did a test fitting to check placement on my vest.

Chest display: came from Westaby electronics on Etsy. Looks really nice and came with display tinting stickers so you don't need to add smoked plexi.

Pistol belt. Man these things are expensive! I'm on a budget of sorts, so I did what I could. The main leather parts and holster came from Darmansprops on Etsy. Pretty decent work. And had FUNCTIONAL pouches with magnetic closure! Prefect place to store hotel key or beer money. :) I still need to make the base belt to attach it to. The base belt will be made using some 6 oz suede and a fabric/rope kit from Crowprops.
Metal parts ordered from JJIndustries and should be here any day... If it ever frakking stops snowing!

Voice Changer: ordered from Helicalhypercom on Etsy. Also should be here soon.
Ordered a 20k mAh battery pack from Amazon. That should last all day at a con...

And last... Guns, guns, guns!

I bought an original flare gun, but am having a hard time deciding which way to go to do it in metal since nobody sells a conversion kit.

Ordered a 3D printed blaster kit from Traywick Designs and I couldn't be happier. This was honestly the best looking with regards to accuracy and details. The print quality is superb, has a moving trigger with all the rods and bolts you need and I can't wait to get started on that one. A+

And last... As a temporary filler until I can get a good one... I picked up the Nerf Boba Blaster rifle for like $50 off through Amazon. Somebody else posted images of one after repainting and tweaking the details and it looks really nice.

Pics coming soon.
 
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Journal of my Book of Boba Fett build.

What I've invested in so far.

ETSY
=====
Pants, shirt and vest from KohiEnterprises. It was made to measure but a couple of the measurements asked for and supplied didn't match up in the end. Their sizing chart could have been easier to understand. Build quality however was really nice. I need to get the vest shortened by about an inch or so, and the trousers need to be taken way in. I wear a 36 inch waist pants and I'm pretty sure I got a 42 (abdomen diameter, not waist size) from the measurement supplied. Shirt sleeves are the same twill as the rest of the suit, and not the ripstop material. The kama was also the twill material. Despite the sizing issues though the price was exceptionally reasonable for what I got.

Raw silk: ordered from Amazon I think to make the scarf and new kama. Still Need to figure out what fabric to get for the inner liner.

BOOTS: Accurate Under Armour boots in black.

Spats/toe armor/glove armor: Crowprops, and I'm very pleased with the quality and the sizing was spot on.

GLOVES: EBay black motorcycle gloves and a pair of police gloves for inside. The police gloves are SUPER tight though. I may need to see if I can exchange them for one size larger.

Helmet: for now, I'll be using my black series Mando S2 Boba helmet. Plan on swapping it out in the future. Ordered a replacement darker visor from Opleprops in Germany.

Does anyone sell replacement more accurate ears for these helmets? Would like a new rangefinder stalk and slimmer ear panel.

Armor and jetpack: got a complete set including vambraces from EDcauldron on Etsy. Fast printing and about 95 percent useable without major work. The chest display holes however are way too small, so I'll be cutting those larger. Just started sanding and did a test fitting to check placement on my vest.

Chest display: came from Westaby electronics on Etsy. Looks really nice and came with display tinting stickers so you don't need to add smoked plexi.

Pistol belt. Man these things are expensive! I'm on a budget of sorts, so I did what I could. The main leather parts and holster came from Darmansprops on Etsy. Pretty decent work. And had FUNCTIONAL pouches with magnetic closure! Prefect place to store hotel key or beer money. :) I still need to make the base belt to attach it to. The base belt will be made using some 6 oz suede and a fabric/rope kit from Crowprops.
Metal parts ordered from JJIndustries and should be here any day... If it ever frakking stops snowing!

Voice Changer: ordered from Helicalhypercom on Etsy. Also should be here soon.
Ordered a 20k mAh battery pack from Amazon. That should last all day at a con...

And last... Guns, guns, guns!

I bought an original flare gun, but am having a hard time deciding which way to go to do it in metal since nobody sells a conversion kit. So for the for time being, I picked up a printed kit from Traywick Designs on Etsy. The print quality is superb, has a moving trigger with all the rods and bolts you need and I can't wait to get started on that one.

And last... As a temporary filler until I can get a good one... I picked up the Nerf Boba Blaster rifle for like $50 off through Amazon. Somebody else posted images of one after repainting and tweaking the details and it looks really nice.

Pics coming soon.
Wow this is so helpful! I’m a clueless wife of a big boba fett fan trying to build a wearable Boba Fett for him by June/July as a gift. I didn’t grow up on Star Wars myself and Im just getting started and was trying to find a complete list of parts that I would need to keep in mind and include to make this legitimate. This is the best I’ve found and the shops are super helpful for things that would be too difficult to make!
 
LOL. Keep in mind there ARE other vendors out there. I was going for a "budget" build. Now, having said that, some parts like my undersuit will need mods to be "screen accurate." Room for improvement of course.

Which reminds me... I should really upload progress photos. :)

For smoothing the 3D printed parts, I did use 3D printing resin. Basically you sand the 3D printed plastic first, clean it, brush on the resin, cure it with a UV Flashlight (30-60 seconds) and then sand the heck out of it with 150 grit, then I used 240, then sometimes finer than that. Be prepared to buy stock in 3M sandpaper, but as a technique it does work pretty well.
 
Also June/July is a tight window. Some of my items took like a month or more to arrive and several weeks of sanding/resin on the 3D printed parts, just as an FYI. Plus if you want to get really fancy, you technically should (wet) sand with a fine grain sandpaper between paint coats, depending on how smooth you want certain parts.
 
Updated progress photos will be awesome to see! I was In the beginning stages of planning when I posted that and spent basically all day yesterday and into the early morning today researching on here and watching a series of YouTube boba fett build step by step tutorials. Even with 2 people working on it (my brother is helping me quite a lot) I do now think that even mid July would be a tight deadline and I’m thinking more now that I’ll have it done end of September for a convention he goes to every year and for Halloween. I’m also doing a budget build so it won’t be even as fancy as yours since I’ll be leaving out things like the chest display, range finder light electronics and voice changer for now and having to sew what I can myself, but I think whatever I end up with by working hard until end of September on this will be a great starting point and then my husband can improve on it with time as he wishes over the next year before the convention in fall of 2024!
 
LOL. Keep in mind there ARE other vendors out there. I was going for a "budget" build. Now, having said that, some parts like my undersuit will need mods to be "screen accurate." Room for improvement of course.

Which reminds me... I should really upload progress photos. :)

For smoothing the 3D printed parts, I did use 3D printing resin. Basically you sand the 3D printed plastic first, clean it, brush on the resin, cure it with a UV Flashlight (30-60 seconds) and then sand the heck out of it with 150 grit, then I used 240, then sometimes finer than that. Be prepared to buy stock in 3M sandpaper, but as a technique it does work pretty well.
Follow up question about the resin, I saw someone do that process in a video yesterday on the helmet. My brother just has a 3D printer that uses filament. Did you print with resin and then brush more resin on top, or did you print you print with ordinary plastic filament and then brush over it with 3D printer resin? Might be a stupid question but I only started learning about 3D printing processes 2 days ago so I’m just trying to clarify!
 
My armor is FDM (filament) printed. I then used the resin printing resin to "paint" the surface and then used a UV flashlight to cure the resin. And then sand. And if there's any still visible lines, paint another thin coat and cure again. And sand again. It's a process.
 
My armor is FDM (filament) printed. I then used the resin printing resin to "paint" the surface and then used a UV flashlight to cure the resin. And then sand. And if there's any still visible lines, paint another thin coat and cure again. And sand again. It's a process.
Thank you! I think I’ll be doing them same method
 
Finally, some pics of my armor build progress...

The start, after sanding and resin on most of the pieces.

Mid-point resin painting and before sanding on the backplate.

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Fully resin coated and sanded. Except the backplate. I ended up doing that AFTER I started painting. Don't know how I missed that piece, other than the fact I had it off to the side of my work area. Doh.

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For smoothing the 3D printed parts, I did use 3D printing resin. Basically you sand the 3D printed plastic first, clean it, brush on the resin, cure it with a UV Flashlight (30-60 seconds) and then sand the heck out of it with 150 grit, then I used 240, then sometimes finer than that. Be prepared to buy stock in 3M sandpaper, but as a technique it does work pretty well.
Or, depending on where you live and the weather, just leave it in sunlight briefly. In fact, just rotate the piece you've printed and resin coated and do like a BBQ or Rotisserie move with it, exposing the parts to as much sunlight as you can.
 
I even tried using my 3D resin wash/curing machine and it didn't remove the tacky feeling either. Ended up just sanding and it was fine after that.
 
The texture I used is automotive wrinkle finish. It cured... oddly in places because
of the temperature I was working at... which was around 40 degrees at the time.

I ended up getting a can of truck bed liner spray finish as well, and used that as
touch up for the areas that the wrinkle finish just didn't cure right on.

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