Han Hunter

Active Hunter
::UPDATE 28 August 2003::

Well, everyone so far has got theirs (as far as I'm aware). The guy who makes tham is sorting out a web page so they can be ordered direct. I'll post a link as soon as I get one from him.

He has said he will try to keep the prices the same as they were here, but when they are done individually, he has to pay more for the parts. It's cheaper for him to do them in runs of at least 5.

If there is interest, I'm happy to keep arranging runs of these whilst we get 5 or more. Post your interest here. When we get to 5, I'll take payment and start over.



::UPDATE 7 August 2003::

All units ordered on the list below have been shipped.

Estimated 5 - 7 days shipping time.

Hope you like 'em. LMK when they get there, and don't forget to post pics/movies once they are installed.



::UPDATE 4 August 2003::

All units have been made and posted to me. I should get them Wednesday at the latest. I'll bag 'em up and ship 'em as soon as I can which will be this weekend at the latest. Shipping time from me to you is likely to be 5 - 7 days.

Should be there in plenty of time to install it for D Con Mirax ;)



::UPDATE 24 July 2003::

OK All the units have been ordered. He has ordered the parts and anticipates starting on them this weekend.

Mirax, I told him about the AAA - AA switcheroo, and he'll do this if he can get the AA battery box right away, or he'll get out the AAA version ASAP if not so you should hopefully have it in plenty of time to install it for Dragon Con.

Updates as they occur.

Cheers for now.


::UPDATE - 18 July 2003::

OK guys and girl, All payments received for those that are going ahead in this run. I'll put the order in tomorrow. He has confirmed it should be a 7 - 10 day turnaround depending on parts availability (the battery cases, mainly)and I'll ship them as soon as I can once received.

He's in the process of trying to get the AA battery cases from another source. I'll keep you updated.

Mirax, he has the AAA ones in stock and I'll let him know we want this one ASAP, rather than sat waiting for the others if there's a delay.

Chhers for now.



:: UPDATE - 10 July 2003::

OK all, as you know I received the prototype back. I had a good play with it last night for quite a while and couldn't replicate any of the earler glitches. I'm as happy as a sand boy with mine. It goes up and down, the lights work in both sequences and there are no problems that I could find in almost an hour of fiddling around, turning on and off, etc.

I'm ready to take payments, so if you'd like to paypal me at sianbeck@yahoo.co.uk that'd be great. I'll PM everyone individually regarding the cost of their particular set up. Don't forget to include your screen name as well as your real name and address in the paypal message section.

Watch your PM inbox guys. *EDIT - I PM'd everyone on the list, I think. If you didn't get one, LMK and I'll shoot you the details ASAP - END EDIT*

Once I have all payments, I'll put the order through. Initially he thought it should take about a week to 10 days to make the order in runs of 10, but I'll ask him to confirm a timescale when I put the order through as I know there's a change on the PCB since he gave that estimate.

Any questions, post, PM or mail them.


::UPDATE - 4 July 2003::

Hi all. De-bug appears to be complete. Here's a copy of the mail I received from Mike, the maker of the unit, this morning:


You will be pleased to know that I am now happy that the servo control is working reliably and it will be in the post back to you tomorrow.

For your interest the problems were mainly caused by noise from the on/off switch on switch-on. The cure has been to set a feature in the chip called 'brown out detect'. This resets the chip if the supply voltage drops below 2.1v. So if noise from the switch leads to a short interruption in supply the chip is reset and starts again.

Check it out. I think we are now ready to produce. I might even have a new supplier for AA boxes!



I copied and pasted it from his mail as it's all technobabble to me, but thought some of you might be interested/know what he's on about!

The short version: Get your chequebooks/paypal ready!

I'll test (play with) it once received and let you all know how it goes. If it works, I'll be able to receive payments and put the orders in pretty soon. We may also get the AA holders. I shall leave the AAA orders as is unless those who specified them contact me to the contrary.

I'm away this weekend, so won't be at home to receive the package (going away tonight after work), but will post my findings as soon as I can. Either sunday night or Monday.

Nearly there!


::UPDATE 2 JULY 2003 - Progress report - The de-bugging is going to plan. He's found some of the minor faults and thinks it might be down to a one off faulty chip. His breadboard (test) version works 100%, so he's going to replace and update me ASAP.

Watch this space. More when I have it - END UPDATE::

::UPDATE 27 June to confirm switch wire and connector price - for 42" of wire and the connectors to the PCB (You supply your own switch, don't forget). In kit form (you get the wire and the connectors and stick 'em together yourself) $1.50. To get the wire already set up to the connectors is $5.00. Apparently fiddly and time consuming for him to do this on all of them, hence the hike, but money well spent if you have no idea what to do with the kit, perhaps. LMK which (if any) you'd like ::

1. Bounty Haunter - <font color="#00FF00">SHIPPED Wired, AA, No LED, switch wire made
2. DreadPirateRoberts - <font color="#00FF00">SHIPPED Wired, AA, No LED, switch wire made
3. Vadersfavourite - <font color="#00FF00">SHIPPED Wired, AA, No LED, switch wire made
4. Nerf Herder - <font color="#00FF00">SHIPPED 1 x w/less, 2 x wired, All AA + No LED, switch wire made
5. Malcfett - <font color="#00FF00">SHIPPED 1 x w/less, AA, No LED
6. Mirax H - <font color="#00FF00">SHIPPED wired, AAA, No LED, switch wire made

::End Edit::

Hello all,

I have wanted an RF servo since I first got into this hobby. Buying one of the great units from Hyperdyne was a goal, but I don't have the $$'s for the product plus the international shipping, sadly. I have looked on in awe as some have made their own Servo set ups to raise and lower the RF stalk on Boba/Jango buckets. I thought about trying it myself, but knowing my limits and how stretched my spare time is already, I thought I'd try another option.

Working with a small electronics company (I give them the idea and the information, they do the R&D work) over here in the UK we have developed a set up that will control the RF by way of a servo so it goes up and down.

There's no screen accurate time for the RF to move through it's arc, so I applied the following logic. If it's too fast, people will miss it if they blink. If it's too slow, it will lose peoples interest. I eventually settled on approx 2 secs as a good time.

What they also did was get carried away with their research and did something I didn't ask them to do, but is quite cool. They made it so it also controls the LED's on top of the RF so they come on when down. It's not a tilt switch like Bobo's great piece, it's controlled by the small PCB they've programmed to do the job. This means you either have to have a hollow stalk, or dremmel a channel in your existing stalk.

The software and pins to add the LED's are on all the PCB's. To add the LED's, connectors and wires to the package, all made up and ready to go is an extra $10. To add just the parts (LED's, wire, connectors) to make them up yourselves is $2.50

LED's can either go on/off alternately (1..., 2..., 1..., 2..., 1..., 2..., 1..., 2..., .... etc), or mimic the pinging scan sound in slave one whilst it's tracking the millenium falcon in ESB (1..., 2, 2 , 1..., 2, 2, etc) (See brak's buddy's tutorials on TDH). To change sequences, you just insert or remove the small bridge (supplied) on the PCB. It's marked on there.

Here are 2 clips showing the stalk moving and the 2 LED sequences. It's only roughly mounted in my DP97 with Tape on the inside, just to give an idea. I'll be doing the full install on my MLC soon.

Sequence 1 567k

Sequence 2 613k

With the Servo inside, I can still get the bucket on.

They have come up with 2 options.

Option 1 - Wired version:

PCB wired to battery box with on/off switch
Connections via 10 way pin header:
3 to servo
3 for LEDs (2 x negative, 1 x shared positive)
2 to momentary switch in gaunt
2 for jumper to select alternative LED flashing sequence
(note I have not provided for 3rd LED for the RF "Screen" like Bobo's)

PCB size approx 1" square.

Battery box 4 x AA or AAA '4 flat' arrangement. (no cost difference but AA bigger and lasts longer)

Cost $67 plus Shipping.

Wireless version:

High security wireless link (more than 1 can be used in same area)

Transmitter - keyfob type (Like your car alarm sender) - option to have two wires for external button.

Receiver/decoder - wired to battery box with on/off switch
Connections via 8 way pin header:
3 to servo
3 for LEDs (2 + return)
2 for jumper to select alternative LED flashing sequence

Cost $140 plus shipping.

Prices include the battery box, programmed PCB, Servo and connectors between these three parts. LED's extra, as above and below.

I thought it was going to be quite expensive and I'd just get it for me as a one off, just to save on international shipping, but the prices weren't that bad so I thought I'd run this interest thread (I've spoken to them and they can mass produce without a problem).


Shipping internationally will be $6 airmail (5 - 7 days delivery time) in a padded bag. For those with multiple orders, shipping will be $3 extra per item, so if you have 2, it'll be $9, 3 = $12 etc. I'm happy to combine shipping for those of you that live close, if this helps.


Please post your interest here so I can start a list and give the guys some notice re: numbers. Any questions, please post them, PM me, or mail me at: sianbeck@yahoo.co.uk

The prototype is what you see in the clips. It has gone back for some minor de-bugging (thought to be a faulty on/off switch) and it will then be ready for production.

One minor hold up - the AA battery holders are currently unavailable until August. The guy is trying to find another supplier, but might not be able to get any more until August. AAA holders are in stock. If you want the AA, you might have to wait, but you get better battery stamina - recommended if you're going with the wireless version as there's a higher battery drain. If you want AAA, these are available sooner, but you have less battery stamina. I've asked and 9v is not an option.

When posting interest, please state:

Wired or Wireless
AA, or AAA battery holder
With LED's made up (Extra $10), with LED kit (Extra $2.50) or without LED's.


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Before I state my confirmed interest in this...let me just say a big-ass BRAVO!! to Han Hunter for doing all the leg work to bring this about.

Did I say "BRAVO"? BRAVO!

And thank you.

I have a couple of small questions...but for the time being I think I can safely say that I'm definitely down for the wired version. You just can't beat that price.

Everyone knows Jim's stuff is amazing...but much of it can be a little too pricy for some of us. This sounds like a great alternative.

Thank you, Si.

I have a solid aluminum RF stalk, with Bobo's tilt lights and Mardon's hollow top. So there's no need for me to have wires running up to control the LEDs. All I need is for that servo to move the stalk up and down. Sounds like this shouldn't be a problem with this kit.

Jim's kit requres a hollow RF stalk to mount onto the servo arm. Can your kit be used with the solid tapered aluminum stalks that many of us now have on our helmets?

How much engineering will be required to properly install this kit in our helmets? Drilling? Gear mounting? Will some basic instructions be provided for those of us who are not, shall we say..."electronically inclined"? ;)

I assume the "wired version" would run from the servo unit (inside the helmet), down the inside of the costume to the control box in hand.

Will the appropriate length of wire be included in the kit to do this?

I understand the control box is roughly the size of a car alarm sender. Small enough to wear inside the glove? Probably.

Thanks again for sharing this with the group! Can't wait to see how this comes out.

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Dude that is totally freekin awesome. I would love to have one but right now I am unemployed so my Fett hobby is on hold as far as new purchases goes.
Wow my man great work :eek:
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Good to see some positive responses!

Blastech. I've never seen a Mystery Helmet or the RA stalk, so I can't comment. Can you post pics?

If it helps, the servo used in this unit is a standard Futaba servo you might find in an RC car or plane. It is mounted on a standard DP 97 helmet and uses the standard DP RF stalk. The only drilling involved was to the side of the helmet. Where the circle at the bottom of the stalk goes, I drilled a hole approx 3/8", secured the servo (with tape, but it's only temporary. I'll hot glue or epoxy it in the MLC, whatever works best) with the spindle poking though the hole. Attached the RF stalk circle to the spindle sandwiched between 2 of the circles that can be used (supplied with the servo) I had to use a longer screw for the mock up, but it worked just fine. There's not enough room for the ear piece to sit on, so when I install it properly, I'll be looking into some small srews or good strong glue to attach the stalk to just one of the wheels on the spindle to decrease the size.

I'll try to get pics of the unmounted unit up tonight.

Bounty Haunter. Thanks man!

I have a solid aluminum RF stalk, with Bobo's tilt lights and Mardon's hollow top. So there's no need for me to have wires running up to control the LEDs. All I need is for that servo to move the stalk up and down. Sounds like this shouldn't be a problem with this kit.

Jim's kit requres a hollow RF stalk to mount onto the servo arm. Can your kit be used with the solid tapered aluminum stalks that many of us now have on our helmets?

Shouldn't be a problem at all. As I said above, I used the standard (solid) DP stalk and it worked fine. Just feed the servo spindle through the hole in the circle at the bottom of the stalk. Make sure it's well secured and it should be fine.

How much engineering will be required to properly install this kit in our helmets? Drilling? Gear mounting? Will some basic instructions be provided for those of us who are not, shall we say..."electronically inclined"?

Drilling? one hole through the right side of your bucket. That's it for mounting the servo. Gear mounting?just push to fit the circle (supplied) on in place of a servo arm and attach your stalk as you see fit (srews/glue etc)

I shall do some basic instructions and include those (based upon my mounting in the DP and the MLC if I've done it by then), but it really is quite simple. That's what I was after, simplicity. I have no electronics knowledge whatsoever and I managed fine. It's really straightforward once you see it.

As far as the electronics go, you don't need to do anything. The chip is preprogrammed to know how far to push the RF and how fast. It starts in the up position, so if you turned it off whilst down, it'll whip it back up pretty quick when you next turn the unit on.

The only involvement in the electronics comes with the connections and the LED's.

The connections are all plug and play, and all the pins are marked as to what they are and what they do. There are 3 to the servo, two to the switch, 3 to the LED's and 2 for the sequence changer. There are small connections that push on or off and the PCB is sealed in a little plastic shrinkwrapped type thing.

For the LED's the connections are by the same type of push on connection. For the sequences, there is a small jumper/bridge which connects 2 of the pins off the PCB. while the contact is made, sequence 1 will flash. Remove the contact (supplied) and sequence 2 will flash. Genius. I know this doesn't apply for you BH, but thought I'd let others know whilst I was on about it.

I assume the "wired version" would run from the servo unit (inside the helmet), down the inside of the costume to the control box in hand.

Pretty much, yes. You route it where is best for you. I had imagined inside the neckseal, inside the J/suit, down the sleeve. I had also imagined mounting the switch as one of the momentary buttons on the Left gauntlett to make the suit look like a working piece, but you could secrete a switch in your glove, or where ever you want.

Will the appropriate length of wire be included in the kit to do this?

This is included within the LED kit @ $2.50. I'm waiting to see what it will cost seperately for the wire and connectors. I would like to provide the wire and connectors. I figured 40" should be enough, what does everyone think?

I shan't be providing a switch, as everyone will have their own preferences as to where it is mounted and what size switch to use etc. You will need a momentary "push to make" switch, not a click on click off like a rocker or toggle switch. The circuit only completes while the switch is pressed briefly, and that's enought to move the RF.

I understand the control box is roughly the size of a car alarm sender. Small enough to wear inside the glove? Probably.

The control box mentioned (the one the size of a car alarm sender) is only on the wireless version. The control box is the transmitter (like a car alarm key fob deal). This can be mounted in a secret pocket in your glove, or on the side of your blaster so the RF can come down when you take aim, etc). The wired version comes without a switch for the reasons mentioned above.

Hope that answers your questions BH, and clarifies some points for others. Any further questions, shoot. I'll try to get pics of the unit out of the bucket up tonight.

drvfett - bummer, man. Hope it turns round for you soon and you're back in fett funds. These'll be available indefinitely. The company making them is a little company over here in the UK. They think I'm a complete freak and don't want to be involved at this stage, thinking it'll flop. If it proves to be popular, they will sell them direct. So when the initial interest has died down and people stumble on this thread at a much later date, they can still contact the company for them. The company has asked to remain anonymous while the water is tested, but I'll post details if they are satisfied I'm not some idiot who talks rubbish. The price will remain the same. You pay through me what you will pay direct from them.

I'd like to work in runs of 10, but can work in smaller numbers. There is no minimum or maximum order, but it makes it easier for me to do it in runs.

Finally, I'll try to get an international shipping price nailed down soon.


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Bravo buddy! :D

Very nice of you to be offering this setup to the group dude. And cudos for the praise of my lights!
I was a little worried when i saw your post as I thought it would put me out of business :)lol:)! But since they don't offer a self contained LED board....*phew*! ;)

I'd potentially be interested in the wired version, but I'll still shoot you a PM about all the details.

Cheers, and good R&D buddy!
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Amazing man. I am a little strapped for cash right now because of other purchases, so is there any way you might do another run later in the year? If not there may be a way I can buy one, I'll let you know.
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Very cool work Si!!

I'm in a similar situation as Bounty Haunter, w/ Bobo's lights on the way, but I have Mardon's hollowed stalk.

Would it be safe to assume that a wireless option w/ the above could be done?

thanks mate!

take care,

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Crisisfilms - It's easier for me if you can jump on board now, but at the end of the day, there's no mimiunum or maximum order and those who want them later will be able to get them. The only thing that would change that is the company going out of business.

Rex - I also have the MLC (No hollow stalk though). I've looked at it and can see no reason whatsoever why either version (wired or wireless) would not work. Just for the avoidance of doubt, the wired/wireless tag relates to the connection between the activation switch and the PCB, not the PCB and the LED's. if you want this puppy to drive your LED's there's got to be a wire going between them.

Give me 5 mins and I'll get pics up, as I've taken it out to end back for de-bugging.


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OK guys. here are some stills showing various aspects of the kit.


Pic 1. exploded view of how I mounted it. L to R the parts are:
1 - screw
2 - servo arm. only used to temp secure
3 - DP solid RF stalk
4 - servo "circle"
5 - Helmet side (actually an MLC stalk used for demo purposes)
6 - servo
7 - battery housing inc on/off switch
8 - pcb



Pic 2. Close of the pcb



Pic 3. pcb with size ref (in inches)



Pic 4. hole in side of DP bucket with size ref (in inches).


Hope this helps put it in perspective.

in pic 1, you'll see I used a spare servo attachment (item 2) to attach the stalk. When done properly, I'll glue/screw the stalk to the servo "circle" (item 4). This will give much more room and allow the ear piece to sit flush.


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<font color="#00FF00">OK THAT ROCKS !!!!! & I'm TOTALLLLLLY IN FOR ONE
But I had a question on what the demensions of the servo itself are?
(the photo of the servo looks kinda bulky???).I have a tight bucket and im not sure if my head will fit with that installed. ALso can the servo be changed out for a smaller one? that is Futaba compatible?? ive been looking into making my own and ive seen the " HiTec HS50 sub micro-servo" around (see pic)just curious if it will work with your control board.


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Am I correct in assuming that the battery pack doesn't fit in your helmet, but rather in the side pouches?
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I believe Han Hunter's servo is the basic Futaba 128 series which is the standard servo used in RC cars & planes. You can always attach a smaller Futaba servo (micro) if you wish & naturally they share the same "j-type" connector.
However, if you're using other servo brands - you may have to cut the servo wire & replace it with a Futaba connector to be plugged in the IC unit. Althou, check color coded wires as they may be different from Futaba's.

There's tons of servos to choose from by just going to Tower Hobbies.

I'm going for Han Hunters remote version whereas I'm hoping to place the remote on Fett's blaster :)

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DPR - MLC is pretty much right. The servo is pretty much interchangeable, just make sure it's futaba compatible and has the same connectors. Some servos work in the opposite direction etc so the signal from the pcb will try to send the RF backwards, etc.

Another consideration is the load placed on the servo. A micro or sub-micro servo might fit in a lot better, but may burn out trying to move the RF.

Bobafettish - The idea is that the battery pack does go in the bucket, but it can go wherever you want. If you buy the servo connector extensions (readily available in hobby/model shops) you can easily mount it in a pouch, or wherever.

In my temporary mount, I put it on the opposite side to the servo and it balanced the bucket out OK.

Mardon - Thanks for helping out, dude :)

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Now is there a way just to buy the programmed pcb, switch wire and battery box with no servo???? I have about 5 servos sitting around here and a good chunk of that price above is servo.

Would he/you consider selling an everything but the servo package??

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Think nothing of it, Si......happy to help :)

Actually, with the current technology nowadays, RC micro servos are tough. If you could only imagine the high stress that these servos endure during a tight wheel turn, moving a rudder in dense water and moving flight surfaces on making a loop....you'll be surprise at what high stresses these gizmos turn. Some even have metal gears inside as opose to ABS plastic.

Moving the RF up & down doesnt have much stress whatsoever, so maybe even those tiny servos used in micro RC cars (cigarette pack size cars) could be used if you're creative enough :)

The thing to consider is if the PCB board controls the limit/throw of the servo. In the bucket set-up, it only needs to travel 90 degrees (up to down & vice-versa) but a servo has the capabilities to move more than 90 degrees. So if any of your earcap parts stops the movement of the stalk a few degrees off its total turn, you might think it stopped moving but in reality it is still trying to move the RF....thus will drain your battery faster.....not to mention stripping the gears of the servo in time.

Just my 02 cents :)

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Oppi - Yeah, I have a couple of guys over on the RPB that have their own servo's and are getting just the PCB and the battery box. The servo cost is £11, so to you, this would make the package $56 + shipping, plus LED's or wires you might want.

LMK what other options you want and I'll get you on the list.


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