Painting question

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Migrate from As You Wish

Originally posted by mechroid:

Be particularly careful [run a test first] when spraying clear on metallics such as the sonic beam thingy or scratches + dinks on yer armour..some silvers turn a very dead grey when over sprayed.
On armour + the helmet I used acrylic based car spray for the primer + the silver then, after masking, a mixed matt enamel green...when fully dry the acrylic is damn tough!!!..but the thinner enamel is scrape-able [lightly !]with a blade to enhance scratches etc....
On similar things to fett tools i've used JUST acrylic car spray silver which is tough enough for me[at the end of the day, if something gets scratched 1;we got the IDEAL project to disguise it on + 2;one type/layer wotever of paint is easier, quicker +less expensive to respray........apart from that i'm damn lazy!:)
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Originally posted by Jaster:

i have a couple painting questions for all you painting Pro's...

1.what colors are good for the armor? I.E. what green(s) to use?

2.flat or glossy paint?

3. is clear coat good to use or not?

4. (not really a aint question but i'm gonna ask) Whats a good filler/putty like thing for armor?

5. Primer or no primer?
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Originally posted by Braks Buddy:

I can answer a few of these.

2. Flat - ALWAYS FLAT when dealing with Fett

3. You might want to clear coat the helmet but be careful! Clearcoat turns silver into a dull grey color and clearcoat fills in small scratches/weathering. The reson to clearcoat the helemet is to maintain the exact weathering pattern you painted. On the armor, most don't mind a few more scratches/scuffs as it adds to the overall look so no clear coat is needed to protect it.

5. I have been told by professionals to ALWAYS use primer.

Restless soul, enjoy your youth - Eddie Vedder​
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Originally posted by Lynn TXP 0369:

1) There is alot of different advice on the armor as far as color and peoples eyes (and cameras) see "things" differently. The best advice I can give you is to use what "you" think looks correct and go with that. The other advice is that I got from Slave1, it is try not to use a single color for a color coat, but rather a combination of the same shades and mist them on to give it a more weatherd look. It will look more convicing than one solid color. Just use your base coat and mist on top similar shades.
Also you can custom mix your colors to get the shades you want and still mist on different shades to get the color you want.

2)Flat all the way.....

3) Use a flat clear coat especially if you are using gloss paints for your color coats. This will make them all flat.

4) I use Milliput epoxy putty for my main filling and red spot filler auto putty glaze for my final filling.

5) Definatly, don't do any painting with out it, it is your binder for color coats to what you workiing on.

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Originally posted by Jaster:

1.what about lightly sanding in between coats? is it needed or does the paint stick fine without doing so?

2.What kinda paint is the best also?

3.what kind/color is the BEST to simulate the silver/metalic metal?

oh and BTW i picked up a silver leaving pen at micheals today, i dunno if it is the right color for the metal scrathes and scrapes...... will have to compare this color to that of fett once i get my BB ref CD.
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Originally posted by fettcicle:

I mix a lot of the colors I use to get the color I want, but if you do the same remember to mix plenty of that color, you always seem to run out and is difficult to get the same color to match, if you have extra you can darken it or lighten it to get that layered look. I have success with the flat water base acrylic hobby paint, it works well with masked areas, where as paints with thinners tend to dissolve the glue under the tape and it bleeds underneath. There are some air brush type sprayers in a can, it is a spray can with a bottle positioned just below the nozzle. You add the paint to the bottle and spray away, not good for detail work, but good at eliminating brush strokes. Also I use a piece of foam and just dab on the paint, that also prevents brush strokes and works well with masked areas.I also use thinned out black paint on a rag, I wrap the rag around my finger, dab on a little black, then a little water and wipe the piece down, it gets in the crevices and darkens the piece, the stronger the paint or the harder you rub makes it look darker.I have metal chest armor, so I just painted on the yellow, then used a dremmel bit that was like a gritty rubber eraser and just removed the paint of the areas that showed through silver, then I masked off the silver and some of the yellow and painted on the green, just had to add a little yellow in some places. Even rubbing paint on your finger and then onto the piece works. To get a speckled look I take a piece of foam padding and tear it really rough, then dab it into some paint and dab off the excess, then lightly touch the surface of the piece, if you don't like how it looks you can just rub it off before it dries.
I'm having a problem with spray paint. I've done most of my armor but for some reason now I'm having trouble. Why (after drying since 3 yesterday afternoon) would my codpiece's green layer feel rubbery and peel off? I put a little masking tape on it for weathering but when I peeled off a little piece, it pulled a lot of paint with it. What's wrong??
I primed it really good, did a few layers of silver, yellow, then the green. The green is Rustoleum Spruce green. It's lie it's not even stuck to the plastic.
I've weathered it, and it looks awesome, I just don't want it to accidently peel it later. Is there a clear coat that is invisible but protective? I don't want it to shine
Did you use different types of paint on it, sometimes they dont mix and peel up, you can use flat laquer paint for models, also places like home depot have a dull spray paint for paints also.
Rustoleum is your problem. That stuff takes FOREVER to dry. You're probably going to have to seal it before you can weather it.

This is from BYOBF:
''Rusty Red - area around the T-visor and strip on back (Krylon Ruddy Brown Primer)
Spruce Green - top, cheeks, ear pieces (Rustoleum Spruce Green*)
Charcoal Green - area between cheeks and T-visor area (Rustoleum Charcoal Green*)
Dull Silver - range bottom and stem, middle area of right ear piece (Rustoleum Aluminum 7718)
Black - range finder (Krylon semi-flat black)

*Some colors may require a clear coat to fully cure.''

Sorry :(

Is just the green peeling off, or all of the colors? Did you lightly sand the surface first (600 grit or higher) so that the paint has something to adhere to? And lastly, did you wash all of the mold release off of the surface? I had a similar problem with my cod piece and that very same paint. The problem was I didn't sand it first. Mine didn't peel off though, it was more like it flaked off. That particular paint does take a long time to dry, but it is the closest color match I have seen.
Well, I guess after a year of fett propping I'm still just an ameture. I sanded a ton, before priming. I guess I should sand it with higher grit after that. I think I'll just go get some satin clear coat. Will post pics when done!

EDIT:: <image></image>
I'm partial to Rust-O-Leum's "aluminum" for my base color. Unfortunately, it takes a day or two to FULLY cure (don't even bother reading the label). After it cures, I use Krylon paints in layers on top of it. Each coat of Krylon dries in about 10 minutes (the label claims less than 12).

If Krylon made something I liked as well as Rust-O-Leum's "aluminum" color, I would use them exclusively and forget waiting DAYS on my paint to dry. :facepalm
What is your armor made of? certian vinyls, polyethelenes, polypropelenes, and polyurethanes will not develop a good bond with any chemicals or paint.

edited fer schpelling
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