Paint job / masking fluid question

I have a Bobamaker helmet on order, as part of an ESB build and it's not due to come until Feb / Mar so I'm getting started on research. I've been watching Blaidon Props YouTube series on how to paint the lid and I just want to check something re: the whole layered stencil process.

Lets use the silver damage areas on the back panels as an example.

So, in the Blaiden Props video he says to use masking fluid to mark out the areas where you want the silver to show through, then paint your layer of grey. Remove the masking fluid, then re-apply it for the silver and the grey areas of damage before moving on to the next layer.

My question is, why remove the silver fluid only to re-apply it along with the grey? Why not just leave it on until the end and likewise for every subsequent layer? Is there a reason the masking fluid has to be removed and re-applied for each layer?
 
If you paint several layers over the masking fluid you run the risk of it not coming off cleanly, making a mess and ruining your paint job. It’s best to reapply it.

Also, building a Boba Fett takes patience. Like when you ask a question on here. It may take a little time to get your questions answered.
 
Excellent, thank you for this. I assumed there must be a reason for doing it this way.

Another question (sorry!)

Is there some kind of definitive paint list? I.e which colours and specifically where they’re used? I’ve managed to scrape together a few from what Lewis mentioned in his video but it’s not exhaustive and most of the colours he mentions are pre-emoted with “I think” so I want to be sure.
 
Not really a definitive list per se. There are some common colors/paints that several people use and others like to use their own formulas which don’t always give out that information freely. If you do a search here, there are quite a few threads that have lists.
 
The first question was the first one I had after watching the same videos. I wanted to rush and get my first helmet done quickly and layered the masking fluid. It worked great on the back panels and I was like "ha! no need to do all that extra re-masking!". Then it didn't work on the dome...ON THE DOME! and that's when I converted from being in a rush to doing it with more patience. Totally worth it. The ArchiveX paint list that BudaFett shared above is what I used for my ESB helmet and I was very pleased with the results. The only paints I had to mix was for the dome and I used a 1:1 mixture of light green and grey/green. That's my current ESB on the right along with a comparison shot from ESB.

ESB Matching Photo 1.jpg
 
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