Official Blaster Painting Tips

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Originally posted by Lynn TXP 0369:

Nathan,

Thanks for the info on your weathering.
I use washes and pastel chalks to do alot of mine. I got some artist chalk that has a varity of colors from white to black that I use to dirty things up with.
I also use spongs dipped in paint to creat alot of my battle damage as well as using a paint brush. I also have started using Shelby's paint misting color technique of using similar colors that works great.
I'll get some more pics when I can, but the weahtering is coming along good now.
Lynn
 
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I made my blaster out of a Sega gun and pvc and wood i think it looks great but what colors should the ROTJ blaster be and what is a good technique of weathering the blaster?
 
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Spary a light mist of flat gray or primer from a distance of about three feet. This will help 'age' the blaster a bit. Then use the edge of a torn sponge dipped in silver paint (I prefer Rust-Oleum Aluminum 7715) and ever-so-lightly drag it across the edges (barrel tip, edge of the grip, barrel ribs, etc.). With a little practice you end up with a nice weathered look.
 
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Man the weathering isn't going that good.....I put a base coat of silver down....then a base of a rust color....Then what Do I use for a top color?
 
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So other great ways to Weather stuff..

1) Airbrush.... great for doing over sprays.. and misting... with a even coat of paint... *I use this on my Fett prop*

2) Dry Brushing.... Dip a brush into some paint that you want to use to weather.. dab it onto a cloth.. or palette.. till there is little paint on the brush.. brush onto piece.. test first to make sure its the colour and a proper amount of paint is on the brush *Not to much* and brush till the paint is almost transparent.. This to me is a quick and majorly nice looking weathering process if done right.

3) Scrapping and scratching and highlights. I find after I have done either of the top two steps... and good scratching the item with a needle to score it up a bit.. and adding highlights.. and wear marks to the edges of a item.. make the age of the weathering come right out... even if a scratch has gone to far down in the paint.. and the actual original item colour is showing a bit.. this just ads to it.. I feel.

Also putting some little details into the item sure does help. I to sometimes get lazy and say its good enough.. but then I add say to a metal colour, a little mark or smudge of orange.. or red to it.. gives it a bit of rust look.. Plus little details like that.. sure do make the item even more attractive.. and realistic...

Hope that helps a bit...
 
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that is good but what about a rust look?
 
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Looking closely at MoM photos I see three primatry colors--a greyish silver, rust, and black.

My blaster is currently sitting in the shop with a rust primer coat, followed by a black primer coat, followed by Testor's Steel buffable metalizer.

I will buff the metalizer topcoat, then will take after the gun with fine grit (600-2500) sand paper to expose the colors beneath.

You'll see it when I'm done.
 
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With me doing a rust look.. I paint a base colour.. then I do a acrylic over the base... usually a orange paint... dab it with a brush... a spread out brush to give it that splattered look. Then before it drys.. I wet the brush.. and spread the paint a bit.. sort of like doing a dry brush.. but this time with a brush just went...lol. So with doing so.. it spreads the paint.. and also lifts it up a bit.. giving the ruffness look of rust.. I then add a few other colours of rust.. depending on what you might feel looks like rust *look at them MOM* and you'll see alot of colours used... Depending on how insane you want to get it to look like the real thing.. is the amount of time you want to spend at painting.. I feel if the paint job just ain't right.. it doesn't do the item any good... just makes it look bad...
 
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Yeah, you definitely need the rust color...
 
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Ok gang believe it or not Im almost done with my Jango. what I was wondering is how does one weather the stuff to give it that used look?


Bear
 
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usually, paint on a soft cloth or paper towel that has been sortof "wiped off" a bit, or smudged around for awhile (so not to make it too tihckof a black) then just sorta swirl and smudge that on wherever you like!
 
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I noticed the Jango suit at the Star Wars Celebration that the armor is pretty well weathered. It is particularly on the edges of all the armor.So dont be shy with the dirt! I like to use watered down paint, then use a bit of very fine steel wool to remove excess paint and get it the shade I like. Also charcoal and water works great.
 
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Update on my descrived technique: Worked sort of well, but not great. When using THREE layers of colors, this presents a problem...

Mine had:

Silver
Black
Rust

If I wanted black to show through--no problem, just sand away some silver.

BUT if I only wanted the rust to show through, well then I had to get through black FIRST, inevitable leaving some black exposed that I did not want.

Corrected it all with washes ofthe main colors.
 
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thanks everybody i will start this week!
 
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post some pics after u start!:D
 
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Blastech

Active Hunter
What colors did you guys use on your blasters? I figure a rust color, a grey primer, and black. Any suggestions?
 
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Fetthunter

Well-Known Hunter
I'll copy and paste my paint list from the thread I did on my blaster...


As far as paint goes, this is my "paint list":

DecoArt Dazzling Metallics acrylic "Black Pearl" (purchased on clearance at "Michael's". I later found it here: http://www.alpineimport.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=12324&p_catid=661&sid=4sxEDW0WM2V-1He-05102411027.00


Folk Art acrylic "Nutmeg" (available at WalMart in the craft section for $.88 a bottle).


Folk Art acrylic "Dolphon Gray" (available at WalMart in the craft section for $.88 a bottle).


Liquitex/Grumbacher acrylic "Mars Black" (available at Michael's for about $4 a bottle).



The Black Pearl is a really cool color. It's black with a metallic sheen to it - almost like a really dark gunmetal gray color. I initially tried airbrushing this color, but due to the metallic nature of the paint, it was too thick. Thinning it caused it not to stick , so I ended up brushing on 3 coats by hand as a base color.

I thinned the Nutmeg color with a few drops of water and airbrushed it on to make "rust" patches on the gun.

I thinned the Dolphin Gray with a few drops of water and airbrushed it on to make "weathered" places on the gun.

I used the Mars Black to simulate places where the finish had come off of the gun due to one reason or another. I also used it for the trigger and carbon scoring marks. It was brushed on by hand.
 
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Jedi Bob

Well-Known Hunter
Just curious what the general consensus is regarding the stock on the blaster. I have Spidey's kit and am thinking about staining it dark rather than painting it black. I love the look of the wood instead of the black finish that you see on on the MOM blaster.

What do you guys think?
 
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Dr Fett

Active Hunter
Great question - I had the same one! I just got the same kit myself (thanks Spidey) and I like the wood look myself as well. Anyone have pics of their stained-wood stocks?

BH991
 
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