ItsThatGuy
Well-Known Hunter
Oh - I didn't know they stay the same height! Good to know!
I guess they used scissors to cut them!
I guess they used scissors to cut them!
Skirt Making the skirt
- Thread starter TheWookie
- Start date
MaulMaus
Active Hunter
Yep... Height is the same, Width is bigger as you go down the skirt.
I used a rotary cutter and a metal straight edge. First I drew out directly on the leather where I wanted to cut, then I cut using the rotary cutter. Whatever didn't cut the first time with that (which did happen because I used 7 oz. leather) I used an X-Acto knife to finish the cut. It went very fast that way and because I made only relatively small cuts at a time, they were straight.
I used a rotary cutter and a metal straight edge. First I drew out directly on the leather where I wanted to cut, then I cut using the rotary cutter. Whatever didn't cut the first time with that (which did happen because I used 7 oz. leather) I used an X-Acto knife to finish the cut. It went very fast that way and because I made only relatively small cuts at a time, they were straight.
chansplace
Hunter
once i had my strips of leather cut all the right height, I used a cardboard template to cut it into widths for each size rectangle. it worked out pretty well 
Langsuir666
Active Hunter
Ahhhhh rotary cutter , see i dont have the right tools LOL!! I tried with various type of blades and kept getting little wobbles where the blade was bending so i just used the strap cutter again, they look ok i think
Ahhhhh rotary cutter , see i dont have the right tools LOL!! I tried with various type of blades and kept getting little wobbles where the blade was bending so i just used the strap cutter again, they look ok i think
I have a rotary cutter, but if I read your txt right, you've finished have you? If some are pants we can straighten them later?
Langsuir666
Active Hunter
Yeah all cut out now - hopefully they are ok
Problems i got now it the cutter i bought is no good, wont cut the holes and the lace is too thin - its 1/8 not 1/4
Problems i got now it the cutter i bought is no good, wont cut the holes and the lace is too thin - its 1/8 not 1/4
MaulMaus
Active Hunter
Problems i got now it the cutter i bought is no good, wont cut the holes and the lace is too thin - its 1/8 not 1/4
It'll be okay....
I know you can get the hole puncher through mail-order here in the US. I got mine through Montana Leather I think. You might find it slightly cheaper somewhere else. If you do a brand search (I can't think of the name right now and I'm late for work :facepalm ) you should find a dealer in the UK. I think I paid $40-$50 for mine. It wasn't cheap!
On the lace... I ended up with some of my own and some I just bought... I'm mixing the two up when I finish lacing the skirt. I couldn't rationalize buying a whole new skin just to make my own lace...
ItsThatGuy
Well-Known Hunter
OK, I hate to be a thorn in everyone's side. I've read these forums over and over and I just get confused, but I have some questions, that have probably been answered...but...:
1) what are the sizes of the squares pre row? I know they stay the same hieght, but what about the width?
2) What type and thickness of leather are you using for the squares and how much do you need?
3) Do you make the laces or buy them? What color are they before they are dyed - or are the pre-dyed?
4) Do you airbrush them with leather dye or is it just fabric dye?
Again, sorry - this has probably been discussed already...
1) what are the sizes of the squares pre row? I know they stay the same hieght, but what about the width?
2) What type and thickness of leather are you using for the squares and how much do you need?
3) Do you make the laces or buy them? What color are they before they are dyed - or are the pre-dyed?
4) Do you airbrush them with leather dye or is it just fabric dye?
Again, sorry - this has probably been discussed already...
Langsuir666
Active Hunter
Ok ill have a go! hehehe!
I have the list as follows. 192 squares in total. Square height 2 1/8 - 2 1/4 dependng on your height.
Widths top 3 rows (48 squares) = 1 1/4.
Next 1 row (16 squares) = 1 3/8.
Next 3 rows (48 squares) = 1 1/2
Next 1 row (16 squares) = 1 5/8
Next 3 rows (48 squares) = 1 3/4
Next 1 row (16 squares) = 1 7/8
Lacing can be hand cut from veg tan leather, i think you can also buy lacing like Maulmaus has. Laces are 1/4 flat lacing. Suede lacing is no good to use it has to be leather. You need approx 70 feet of lacing if you cut your own approx 9 sq feet of 1oz.
Skirt Squares are made from aprrox 4oz leather - i used less than skin ill find the footage shortly. Approx 18 sq feet
Dying can either be done with a cloth/dauber, dipping or airbrush. i think most have used a airbrush
I have the list as follows. 192 squares in total. Square height 2 1/8 - 2 1/4 dependng on your height.
Widths top 3 rows (48 squares) = 1 1/4.
Next 1 row (16 squares) = 1 3/8.
Next 3 rows (48 squares) = 1 1/2
Next 1 row (16 squares) = 1 5/8
Next 3 rows (48 squares) = 1 3/4
Next 1 row (16 squares) = 1 7/8
Lacing can be hand cut from veg tan leather, i think you can also buy lacing like Maulmaus has. Laces are 1/4 flat lacing. Suede lacing is no good to use it has to be leather. You need approx 70 feet of lacing if you cut your own approx 9 sq feet of 1oz.
Skirt Squares are made from aprrox 4oz leather - i used less than skin ill find the footage shortly. Approx 18 sq feet
Dying can either be done with a cloth/dauber, dipping or airbrush. i think most have used a airbrush
MaulMaus
Active Hunter
Okay... dug out my papers.... on what I used.
5-6 oz. leather for the skirt. (I don't know how much - I had to buy a whole skin in any case).
1-2 oz for the lacing - which also got used on other projects. I didn't have enough to do all the lacing because I'm a lace making-idiot. Hence, I had to buy some lace rather than a new hide just for the lace. The best I found was 3/16" natural lace from Tandy (I think it is Kangaroo skin) comes in 25 yard rolls that can be dyed at the same time you dye the squares.
15 columns is what I think we came up with and 12 rows. Depending on your size you may need to add/subtract a column or row. Here is the link to the oblong punch. http://www.montanaleather.com/osbornepuches.htm. You want the 1/4" Oblong Punch.
I cut all my squares 2 1/4" tall.
Widths (I actually measured in metric - this is as close as I can get it in English/American measurements)
2 Rows: #1: 1 3/8"
1 Row: #2: 1 5/8"
2 Rows: #3: 1 3/4"
1 Row: #4: 1 7/8"
2 Rows: #5: 2"
2 Rows: #6: 2 1/8"
2 Row: #7: 2 1/4"
The pattern called for 3 rows #7 - but I cut it wrong... It's worked out okay for me in any case!
You must use Leather dye on the leather... There is no formula because each skin is different. (I think there is a basic one somewhere on the forum here - but it is only a start) You will need Purple, Cordova (Red) and Blue along with the extender at a minimum. From there you will need to experiment and see what works on your leather. I also ended up using black and brown in my mixture - though very very little of each.
You can either airbrush, or dunk or use the swabs - it's up to you how you want to do it. It'll be messy and stinky no matter how you do it though!
5-6 oz. leather for the skirt. (I don't know how much - I had to buy a whole skin in any case).
1-2 oz for the lacing - which also got used on other projects. I didn't have enough to do all the lacing because I'm a lace making-idiot. Hence, I had to buy some lace rather than a new hide just for the lace. The best I found was 3/16" natural lace from Tandy (I think it is Kangaroo skin) comes in 25 yard rolls that can be dyed at the same time you dye the squares.
15 columns is what I think we came up with and 12 rows. Depending on your size you may need to add/subtract a column or row. Here is the link to the oblong punch. http://www.montanaleather.com/osbornepuches.htm. You want the 1/4" Oblong Punch.
I cut all my squares 2 1/4" tall.
Widths (I actually measured in metric - this is as close as I can get it in English/American measurements)
2 Rows: #1: 1 3/8"
1 Row: #2: 1 5/8"
2 Rows: #3: 1 3/4"
1 Row: #4: 1 7/8"
2 Rows: #5: 2"
2 Rows: #6: 2 1/8"
2 Row: #7: 2 1/4"
The pattern called for 3 rows #7 - but I cut it wrong...
It's worked out okay for me in any case!You must use Leather dye on the leather... There is no formula because each skin is different. (I think there is a basic one somewhere on the forum here - but it is only a start) You will need Purple, Cordova (Red) and Blue along with the extender at a minimum. From there you will need to experiment and see what works on your leather. I also ended up using black and brown in my mixture - though very very little of each.
You can either airbrush, or dunk or use the swabs - it's up to you how you want to do it. It'll be messy and stinky no matter how you do it though!
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chansplace
Hunter
heres our finished skirt. Pretty happy with what we've achieved but there are some obvious flaws. Using a thin leather has caused the squares to 'bubble' and therefore not as flat/rigid as seen in the ref pics. it was a weigh-up between getting the right weight of leather or using a hide that was already the right colour, so we went with the latter. For the holes we simply used a round punch, but a much smaller hole and punched it twice to make an elongated hole - you cant really tell unless you look closely I also used a kangaroo skin lacing, bough a 50m roll. I'd also suggest a leather lacing needle.
I also used a kangaroo skin lacing, bough a 50m roll. I'd also suggest a leather lacing needle.
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ItsThatGuy
Well-Known Hunter
MM! Thanks so very much!!! 
:facepalm I am confused (which you will find that to be nothing new) by your dimesions, there are only 11 rows. Also where is this pattern you speak of...?
Again thanks for clarifying!
Chansplace - Looks good overall, but I see your point on using thinner leather.
:facepalm I am confused (which you will find that to be nothing new) by your dimesions, there are only 11 rows. Also where is this pattern you speak of...?
Again thanks for clarifying!
Chansplace - Looks good overall, but I see your point on using thinner leather.
MaulMaus
Active Hunter
Because I can't count! (I'm tired - it was a long day ... )
It was actually 1 row on size #6 and 3 rows on size #7. I cut the same number of #6 and #7 so I had to make the same number for each row.... :facepalm The pattern I'm referring to is one ZIA and DCB came up with a few years ago and posted here on the forums - I don't know if it's still up or not. But, it basically illustrated the skirt and the sizes they cut the squares (which is slightly different from mine).
(I'm tired - it was a long day ... )It was actually 1 row on size #6 and 3 rows on size #7. I cut the same number of #6 and #7 so I had to make the same number for each row.... :facepalm
The pattern I'm referring to is one ZIA and DCB came up with a few years ago and posted here on the forums - I don't know if it's still up or not. But, it basically illustrated the skirt and the sizes they cut the squares (which is slightly different from mine).
Langsuir666
Active Hunter
MM i have a reel of 1/8 lace from Tandy. I was thinking about going smaller than 1/4 maybe like you did to 3/16 but how did you find it lacing through 1/4 slots, it doesnt make the lace lose does it? Last thing i want is for the squares to be moving around
MaulMaus
Active Hunter
I have enough squares finished to make a partial skirt (Yeah... I was an idiot and didn't make enough dye to finish all the squares at once... :facepalm ) I took that along with me to FIDM to check the color against the real Zam. I was happy. 
No, the 3/16" wasn't too loose and in fact, I had to really work at it to get it through the second time. If you've already opened the lace, you could make like a test run, see how it works for you - I just think the 1/8 might be too thin and then be loose in the holes - especially the sides of the skirt where there is only the one strand.
) I took that along with me to FIDM to check the color against the real Zam. I was happy. No, the 3/16" wasn't too loose and in fact, I had to really work at it to get it through the second time. If you've already opened the lace, you could make like a test run, see how it works for you - I just think the 1/8 might be too thin and then be loose in the holes - especially the sides of the skirt where there is only the one strand.
Langsuir666
Active Hunter
Well i think we are going against convention punch, lace and hole wise!!! LOL
We are burning the holes in with a soldering iron and they are 3/16 holes with 1/8 lace. I couldnt get my hands on a punch this weekend and we are gonna get started - wish me luck! hehe
We are burning the holes in with a soldering iron and they are 3/16 holes with 1/8 lace. I couldnt get my hands on a punch this weekend and we are gonna get started - wish me luck! hehe
ItsThatGuy
Well-Known Hunter
Good Luck! You are going to need it using a soldering iron! 
Langsuir666
Active Hunter
Its actually going quite well, just using a screwdriver attatchment on the iron and it burns the right size slots, then just file off the really cooked bits and its looking good! hehehe
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