Joe's Jango WIP


joe

Hunter
Hey everyone!

I've been trying to figure out how to build Jango now that after going through the approval process for Boba and knowing all the fitting, minor adjustments, etc. I need to do for costumes. droidbait WIP thread really inspired me since he's so excited to build his Jango and super nice when it comes to sharing insights as he's building it through IG conversations we have had.

I originally wanted to be a Jango instead of Boba, but really struggled finding the parts since I was so inexperienced a year or two ago. However, thanks to all of the prop makers and members here I have finally been able to find the source of all of the parts I want to piece it together to make a Jango.

  • Helmet - Dentless from BobaMaker - ETA sometime in 2021.
  • Armor - MinuteFett - ETA 8-12 weeks from 11/20/2020
  • Gauntlets - MinuteFett - Received, but waiting on 2 replacement parts
  • Jetpack - Classic Jetpack - BobaMaker - late 2021, BobaMaker will paint it
  • Flak Vest - BobaMaker - Secured!
  • Flightsuit - BobaMaker - Secured!
  • Gloves - Amazon - got a couple pairs from Amazon on the way... we'll see which one fits
  • Leather goods - Cruzer - Received, but goofed up on the measurements
  • Jetpack Harness - Seeker - Secured!
  • Boots - CrowProps - Secured!
  • Westar's - Not sure who, probably DEC
  • Gauntlet Greeblies/Knee Darts - Secured from BKBT and ThinkboxMFG
 
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joe

Hunter
Got my DVH jetpack.

There were a good amount of air bubbles and cracks in the gelcoat that I've poked out with my fingers and sometimes an exacto knife to get the gelcoat out of the hole and am planning to use some USC icing (recommended by Darth Voorhees) or basic Bondo Filler.

The worst part is the upper jetpack part. Looks like there are some holes in the fiberglass so I'll need to reinforce it and sand it out. I did pick at these to make sure it wouldn't chip.

There are some parts Lou assembled for me that I'll need to add some bondo as well to fill seams and create some smoothness like on the thrusters.

Figured I'd show some photos since I never see this stuff in other's WIP threads.

DVH 3.jpg

DVH 2.jpg

DVH.jpg
 

joe

Hunter
Found a part of it just now that really bummed me out.

I thought I had found all the "soft" spots where there were air bubbles between the gelcoat and fiberglass.

Sadly, with my fingers I straight up poked a hole through and you can sort of see there is basically just like 1-2 strands of fiberglass cloth and very little resin under this part of the jetpack. I couldn't find any other bubbles, blisters, etc. But this one is concerning since I don't know if bondo could fix it since the structural integrity between these hole and a little below is weak.

I messaged Darth Voorhees and showed him this part of the jetpack just seems to have missed fiberglass cloth since it's pretty weak. He said he will make a new one a little thicker for me at my request since he's surprised this cast has so many problems.. I'll update the thread once I get some other updates.


dvh jetpack.jpg


EDIT: I asked Lou for a refund instead. Lou said no problem and I sent the pack back to him yesterday 9-9-2020. Lou has been super nice and communicative with me even before I ultimately decided to send this back for a refund instead of getting a new pack from him.

Also in these photos I have sanded with 320 grit sand paper the air bubbles, paint pockets etc, which is why the white primer is turning into a opaque tan-white gelcoat.
 
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Darth Voorhees

Well-Known Hunter
Preferred Vendor
Since I was tagged, if someone searches my name this is one of the posts that will come up, so I feel the need to post here as these posts give the impression that my packs are crap. I have sold over 100 of these and rarely or never have any issues with them. There are many folks trooping these all the time with no issues I am aware of. Occasionally these bubbles joe speaks of do happen as it’s hard to tell if there is a slight “ lift”of the fiberglass that may create a small “ bubble” between the Matt and the gelcoat. I usually repair them if I find them before I ship kits. That said it seems this one has more than I would accept. This may be because it was cast on a hot day and the fiberglass was likely curing a little faster due to the heat and it wasn’t fully seated in those tough corners when it started to cure. Again difficult to see while doing it. As for the thin fiberglass spot, again this rarely happens, I obviously missed that one.

that said, I did think there was to many issues with this particular body, so I offered a replacement body to Joe at no extra charge. Ultimately he decided he wanted to send the kit back and get a refund, so that’s where we are at. Just wanted to state that I stand behind my work and if there is an issue I will work with you to resolve it.

good luck with your build Joe!
 

bigkidbiggertoys

Well-Known Hunter
Having done lots of fiberglass work in the past, I can tell you that laying any kind of cloth in inside corners is difficult to try and get all of the air bubbles out. A quick fix would also be to whip up some 5 min epoxy and work into the hole. Still looks like a nice pack!
 

joe

Hunter
Been awhile for an update, since it's mainly just waiting.

I saw some closer photos of Bobamaker's cold cast Jango and it looks really nice, but I really like Cruzer's molds shape way more so I actually went with MinuteFett. Let's hope everything comes in good shape.

Also got my boots from Gio! Took about 3 months, but they made it. EUR 44 is definitely a US size 11. These fit really well length-wise and width-wise for the sole. They are pretty loose on my ankle though... I put 13 inches for my 8 inch above my heel measurement he asks for, when the real one is about 12 inches since I wanted some room to breathe... I think I should've put 12 inches, but the design of the boot is kind of weird, so maybe it wouldn't have made it difference.

It's not uncomfortable to walk around in though. They also look pretty good!

I'm thinking once I get the foot armor with the elastic straps secured it'll fit more secure.

jango fett boots.jpg
 
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joe

Hunter
Got my Wasted Fett helmet! Took a few months, but it's here.

TooFastRobot assembled it. He let me know the ear apparently got smashed or something in transit and repaired it with Tamiya Putty.

It has some imperfections, but nothing too bad. It's a pretty lightweight cast, and the cheeks and back are slightly polished and you can see the coldcast.

It's a little small for my head, it fits though, I have a BobaMaker helmet on order as well so I'm curious what the differences will be.

WF helmet.jpg

wf helmet 5.jpg

WF helmet 2.jpg

WF helmet 3.jpg

wf helmet divot.jpg

WF repair helmet 4.jpg
 

joe

Hunter
Been working on the helmet a little. Polished it all up with steel wool grade 0000.

Scuffed up the parts I'm going to paint with 320 grit sandpaper according to Cruzer's guide.

Repaired the separation in the cheek, hollow rangefinder corner, and divot in the back.

Rubbed rub n buff silver on top of the 2 part putty that filled the divot and I think it looks better.

Also had to get a new screw since the one it came with wasn't long enough and started to strip the rangefinder.

BEFORE PICTURES
PXL_20201201_171546952.jpg

PXL_20201201_171540935.jpg

PXL_20201201_070051778.jpg


AFTER PHOTOS
PXL_20201201_215642358.jpg

PXL_20201201_215646904.jpg

PXL_20201201_213554303.jpg


Just an interesting thing as well. I asked Wasted_Fett what I could do about bristles showing in the coldcast since I figured Silver Rub N Buff might help, and he said yeah that should be fine. However, actually using it doesn't seem to do much. I ended up just letting them stay since you can only sort of see them. Indoor light it is more obvious.

In the picture below you can see the bristles and some dust in addition to natural discoloration. There are some other spots all over the dome with more hair.

There are some "dead" spots that are pretty small on some of it. Silver rub n buff didn't really help it either since it's much "brighter" or "lighter" than coldcast and I don't really want to put it all over the helmet.

PXL_20201201_152650773.jpg
 
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joe

Hunter
KaanE No it wasn't purchased as a B grade cast.

The dead spots I mention are like tiny flecks.

The bristles make it a B grade cast or what piece?
 

joe

Hunter
Wasted Fett will be fixing the situation like he said above. He is really unhappy with how this cast looks since the hairs on/in the dome didn't show until I polished it with steel wool and they were under the first layer flat grey resin. He let me know his apprentice did this cast, and he'll be doing the new cast himself to ensure it's a good cast. I'll be sending it back and he'll be making a new cast of the Jango helmet and painting it for me as a favor. Just figured it's important to this thread since he is making it right, which I think is really awesome and greatly appreciated.

If anything is incorrect regarding what I wrote in the paragraph in this post please correct me WF.
 

BudaFett

Hi I’m Bobert!
Some updates on the helmet situation. Fiberglass fibers have been sanded out and helmet is currently being polished to a shine.

14286F12-E502-4CF9-995A-385892B8927C.jpeg
16CE86DE-9B82-43E0-B0DE-BADB2C2F360B.jpeg
 

joe

Hunter
Ended up getting a refund from Wasted Fett for the helmet.

I have a BobaMaker Jango helmet fully finished on order, and may grab a dented Jango from MinuteFett when I have more cash.

Other update is I got my MinuteFett Cruzer mold gauntlets. Resin missile and top left gauntlet shell will need to be replaced due to some unrepairable air bubbles and MF will be sending replacements, but other than that the casts aren't bad at all assuming I don't find anything weird when I start to polish/sand the coldcast.

I'm hoping to have someone else assemble these since I'd have to buy a dremel and heat gun. I'm also not sure where to get the correct piano hinges since these don't seem to have a removeable pin or else I may not know how they work lol.

PXL_20201211_034454687.jpg
 

bigkidbiggertoys

Well-Known Hunter
HI Joe,

Just look at the piano hinge and you will see small divots where a punch was driven in to lock the pin in place. Simple get a small flat head screwdriver and pry those spots up gently. You should be able to drive out the pin easily after. Remember you only need to have one removable hinge pin per gauntlet.
 
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