Jet Pack ESB Jetpack paint up"How-to" w/color list!

I mix them till it looks right to me using the ESB promo photos. But id say its approx 1 X .75 mix for the POG and RLM76. the grey i literally just add a touch to tone it down a bit. I also add a touch of floquil light blue to make it a little bluer. I just do it by eye. Very little. again just trying to match the reference promo photos. There is a close match with humbrols for the floquil light blue listed on here somewhere so ive been told, so that may be the way to go since the floquil has been discontinued and hard to get, plus for the little bit you'd be adding to the mix its not really worth what it cost lol.
 
I mix them till it looks right to me using the ESB promo photos. But id say its approx 1 X .75 mix for the POG and RLM76. the grey i literally just add a touch to tone it down a bit. I also add a touch of floquil light blue to make it a little bluer. I just do it by eye. Very little. again just trying to match the reference promo photos. There is a close match with humbrols for the floquil light blue listed on here somewhere so ive been told, so that may be the way to go since the floquil has been discontinued and hard to get, plus for the little bit you'd be adding to the mix its not really worth what it cost lol.

I appreciate the help!
 
Can someone who's done this give me an idea of the mixture for "MM Panzer Olive Grun mixed with the RLM76 and a little Humbrol 27 (grey) which is the final green tone." ? Are we talking 1:1 with the Olive Gun and RLM76?

I've been doing lots and lots of color tests in the last few weeks and found a 1:1 mix of POG and RLM76 to look fairly close to the pictures that we have of the original prop. You need to consider that the sometimes really poor lighting and color saturation of the resources that we have of the prop can give you some wrong impressions about the colors.

I didn't find a great formular adding grey but I'd say that's just a thing of personal taste. Also, you will dull the jetpack down quite a bit with misting a few light coats of black on the piece and the overall weathering will do the rest. So I'd personally say that there isn't necessarily a need for adding grey.
 
This is an awesome write up! I have been able to locate some of the paints, but I have a couple questions.

1. Would you be able to estimate how many of each are needed? Even ball parking it is fine, just want to know if I need 1 or 5 or 10 lol...

Rustoleum satin spruce green rattle can x?
Krylon Black primer rattle can x?
Krylon grey primer rattlecan x?
Krylon Matt finish rattlecan x?

Model master Panzer Olive Grun x?
Model master Lict blau RLM76 x?
Model master silver chrome trim x?

Humbrol #154 (insignia yellow) x?
Humbrol #33 (flat black) x?
Humbrol #100 (Red Brown Matt) x?
Humbrol #34 (flat white) x?
Humbrol #73 (wine) x?
Humrol #60 (scarlet red) x?
Humbrol #27 (Sea Gray Matt) x?

Floquil Up Light Orange x?
Floquil caboose x?
Floquil Rock Island Maroon x?
Floquil Weathered Black x?
Testors rust x?


2. Where in the world can I find the paints below in acrylic? Do you have any alternate paints that are readily available? Or do I have to paint in enamel for this?

Model master silver chrome trim

Humbrol #100 (red brown matte)
Humbrol #73 (wine)
Humrol #60 (scarlet red)

Floquil Up Light Orange
Floquil caboose
Floquil Rock Island Maroon
Floquil Weathered Black
 
Most of the colors you will only need 1 can, bottle, or tin..whichever they come in. the only color you may need 2 would be the Model master panzer oluvgrun as that is used for the main green. Everything else, 1 is fine. Humbrols are in tins, Model master and floquils are bottle, and rattlecans are, well, cans lol.

i dont have any alternate versions specifically because i always paint in enamels, so thats all i use. I stick with what i know works for me, which took quite a while to nail down the colors/techniques.

As for availability of acrylic versions of these colors, Humbrol makes acrylic versions of most of their colors. Model masters does as well, but i dont know how many they actually DO make in the acrylic versions. I always used enamels so thats why the list is what it is. Floquils are also getting harder and harder to find, because they have been discontinued since 2013, so those colors could be an issue. I usually find them on e-bay.

Megahobby.com is where i usually get all of my paints. they carry Humbrols, Testors, testors model Masters, and tamiya. They are in the US though. Humbrols should be easy to find where you are. and colors like the rust can be humbrol, i just happened to have testors rust on hand so that why i used it.

There is a new brand on the market in the UK, Archive-X, they make paints specifically for what we are doing to match ILM used floquils. (They are a member here by the same name) I will eventually be switching over to those but i dont know what colors match at this time, as so far ive only seen an ESB helmet done in their paints. They currently have enamels and last i spoke to them, they were currently in testing for the acrylic versions. I may switch to acrylics once they release theirs if i like them.
 
I've been doing lots and lots of color tests in the last few weeks and found a 1:1 mix of POG and RLM76 to look fairly close to the pictures that we have of the original prop. You need to consider that the sometimes really poor lighting and color saturation of the resources that we have of the prop can give you some wrong impressions about the colors.

I didn't find a great formular adding grey but I'd say that's just a thing of personal taste. Also, you will dull the jetpack down quite a bit with misting a few light coats of black on the piece and the overall weathering will do the rest. So I'd personally say that there isn't necessarily a need for adding grey.
Yes this is true, ive been messing with these colors for almost 10yrs lol. Its been determined by a few people that the promo shots are the closest to the actual colors. The JP looks very blue...so i try to match that color as close as possible and make it a touch greener to compensate for the possibility of anything being a little faded. The reason i add the grey is because it makes the green more of a green grey. (blue/grey/green in the desired tone) the weathering will tone down the green but also make it too dark. the final color is very close to the helmet color. There is very little overall weathering on a lot of the pack. Its mostly in the low points on the inside sides of the fuel tanks and on the top back. The rest of it has very little on it.
 
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