Building a Boba Bucket - A detailed scratch build tutorial using WOF templates

never mind i figured out answers to both questions

Sorry, I am sooo late, I was so busy so I didn't visit TDH for so long.

did you use the inner surface template
All temp parts I used is are shown as little graphics, the inner surface I didn't use.
Did it make a nasty smoke in your oven?

At 100 deg celsius (212 deg F) its just a little comfortable warm for the plastic ;), no burning will happen here, so there will be no smoke or smell at all.
 
MAKING ULTRA FLAT BASES, LEFT EAR

As I want to build a helmet which is pretty close to the original, I decided to make detachable ears with ultra flat ear bases. I never saw an original helmet without ears since I saw Benzai88's helmet, which is from an original and hasn't any ears.

Benzai88's helmet!

IMG_7516.jpg

I also carefully researched the pictures from the DTH reference CDs.

LeftEarbase.jpg

The bases I built are close but not really as the original, my target was to idealize the helmet in some ways.

What you need first are the ear templates from the WOF thread, you will find them at the very bottom of WOF first post #1.

To have a perfect pattern of the ear base use the left ear part on page 4

LeftEarbase_Pattern.jpg

Again I only used 1mm styrene sheets to build everything, this stuff is really cool!
Cut out the outer contour of the left ear. Sand the area rough on the helmet where the left ear base will be built. The putty later applied will hold much better than. Do not sand the ear base pattern, its good when it has a shinier surface. It should not hold to good, later you will see why. Apply a little bit glue only in the middle of the ear base pattern and put it onto the helmet about 3mm away from the left mandible. (As shown in the picture here).

IMG_7516_a.jpg

Let it dry for 30 minutes.

Hence the helmet has a round shape the glued ear base pattern has a gap around its edge.

With a little scraper and some putty fill the gap with as much putty you can. Use carefully the edge of the glued ear base pattern as a reference for you scraper. Work in an angle of 90° to the pattern and you will get a perfectly sharp edge later.
Let the putty harden a while.
With a knife lift up the ear base pattern you glued on the helmet before and the you can rip it off!
All what should be left is a U shaped ring of putty applied to the helmet.
It should look like this:The pink colored areas are putty areas (Simulated picture)
IMG_7516_b.jpgMix some more putty and fill the areas between the U shaped hardened putty. With your scraper carefully use the hardened putty "rails" as "glide rails".

After that you have a perfectly flat and aligned left ear base.

IMG_7516_c.jpg

If there are some questions left, do not hesitate to write them in this thread!

Coming up next: Build the left ear in 30 min!

See you!

Chris
 
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Sweet tutorial. Keep it up! (At least now I have a clue what to do. Haha)
I've been following the instructions for the dome, but using different materials.

Can't wait for the next part.

~Zemmy
 
Very true, indeed. You make the Scratch-Builders proud.
You are so nice, thank you Jaiden! How far are you with your lid?

Sweet tutorial. Keep it up! (At least now I have a clue what to do. Haha)
I've been following the instructions for the dome, but using different materials.

Can't wait for the next part.

~Zemmy

Thank you a lot for your encouragement. Be careful making the dome from paper, what material are you taking?

Very clever solution! Can't wait to see that L/H ear...
Nice to see you here TF! Your work is absolutely fantastic!

---

Sorry when I am so slow with my work. But man, I like to spend one's time in TDH so much!
 
Hi, I'm new here and what you have done here is just amazing. I've been looking at doing something similar to this and I've been reading through this and maybe I missed something, but how does the bottom of the helmet hold it's shape once you've cut out the cheekbones and visor slots? or is that the point, it won't actually hold it's shape until you put the cheekbones and visor in?
 
Hi, I'm new here and what you have done here is just amazing. I've been looking at doing something similar to this and I've been reading through this and maybe I missed something, but how does the bottom of the helmet hold it's shape once you've cut out the cheekbones and visor slots? or is that the point, it won't actually hold it's shape until you put the cheekbones and visor in?

In my case, the helmet "held" it's shape pretty close, due to the fact of the dome being attached at the top, and the helmet "barrel" being connected together at the rear....however, the addition of the mandibles/cheeks will definately solidify the construction.:)
Rob
 
In my case, the helmet "held" it's shape pretty close, due to the fact of the dome being attached at the top, and the helmet "barrel" being connected together at the rear....however, the addition of the mandibles/cheeks will definately solidify the construction.:)
Rob


thanks for the feedback. This has been my biggest question mark as to why it doesn't just "open up" .

Did you cut out the cheekbones and visor before or after assembling the barrel? and from your comments, i'm guessing you started with the dome.
 
thanks for the feedback. This has been my biggest question mark as to why it doesn't just "open up" .

Did you cut out the cheekbones and visor before or after assembling the barrel? and from your comments, i'm guessing you started with the dome.

Yes...I started with the dome first on my project, but I used a bike helmet as a base...I cut the cheek sections out of the "outer" pattern piece first, then attached both the "inner" and "outer" pattern pieces to my dome...I used the cut edge of the cheek hole of the "outer" as a guide to cut out the "inner" cheek holes, when it was time to glue the mandible's in....
Rob
 
but how does the bottom of the helmet hold it's shape once you've cut out the cheekbones and visor slots? or is that the point, it won't actually hold it's shape until you put the cheekbones and visor in?

See post #17, the most important step is the "baking" in the oven. There the plastic is memorized in its position. Additionally I reinforced the rim and the visor, seen in Post #26 Strengthen the main body ring: and #29 in last picture.
 
Hi digifett,
Just wanted to say thanks for posting this tutorial. I have absolutely no experience in this kind of thing but between WOF’s great templates and your brilliant tutorial I feel I can now make a helmet of a standard I’ll be happy with.
I’ve already nearly finished my cardboard mock up.

The talent and helpfulness of the people on this forum will never cease to amaze me.
 
Hi digifett,
Just wanted to say thanks for posting this tutorial. I have absolutely no experience in this kind of thing but between WOF’s great templates and your brilliant tutorial I feel I can now make a helmet of a standard I’ll be happy with.
I’ve already nearly finished my cardboard mock up.

That is so nice what you are saying here. Thank you so much.

The talent and helpfulness of the people on this forum will never cease to amaze me.

What you are writing here is exactly the reason why I like to be around here. The first time as I saw all the different tutorials I was absolutely amazed, there are some which are so detailed, but still I had some questions left. So I built my own bucket and try to deliver every important information which might be interesting to you readers.

Again I have to say, I am sorry because I am too slow and as I write this I get a guilty conscience. I will try hard to make the next step this upcoming weekend! I am too busy right now and was all the last time, thank you for your sympathy readers! :eek:

Chris


http://dict.leo.org/ende?lp=ende&p=thMx..&search=conscience
 
Danke schön, Chris! Today is the first time I've seen your tutorial, and between yours and AntMan's thread, I've picked up some great tips. I'm sure the helmet I'm working on is going to come out very, very well. Maybe not as good as yours, but I'll try!
 
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