Building a Boba Bucket - A detailed scratch build tutorial using WOF templates


clonecollector

Active Hunter
I used a Home Depot bucket to make the mask/ mandibles and back. I then attatched it with epoxy to a hardhat I modifid for the dome. I still have the basic helmet shape but I abandoned it because I accidentally made the mask/ mandible part too short so my helmet is a little small around my face. It will be good enough eventually for my kids helmet!Anyway...


The bucket is fairly flexible to work with but rigid enough to make a sturdy helmet.
 

digifett

Hunter
Wow coffe that's quiet a list you bought there! Now you can build your own Mandalorian army!

There's an RC shop right up the street from both the Home Depot and Wal-Mart right near my house, and they will probably have the ABS Glue.
It's perfect when you have a RC shop around, there also you will get the glassfiber tape. It's a lot used to stiffen up small airplanes.

Do you use anything in particular to keep the pieces in place instantly (other than clamps) such as super-glue or hot glue?
Yes I do use super glue to keep parts in place. See post 37 "Applying the mask"

I've been taking pictures of everything I do, and all of the materials I use along the way. My aim is to put all of this into a PDF, which is a little easier to archive than the forum posts.
When this building thread is final we also have planned a PDF version - with Alans help.
 

coffeehedake

New Hunter
When this building thread is final we also have planned a PDF version - with Alans help.

I'd be glad to help with that too! ;)



Originally, I was going to model the helmet in 3D Studio MAX and use a stereolithography machine to make a master bucket to be molded. Unfortunately, it turned out the process was too expensive unless I really wanted to get serious about selling buckets, which I am not.

I actually did model the helmet:

mando_helmet_render01.jpg


It didn't come out too bad, but I suppose it will never leave its digital format and become tangible. ;) That's okay.

clonecollector said:
I used a Home Depot bucket to make the mask/ mandibles and back. I then attatched it with epoxy to a hardhat I modifid for the dome. I still have the basic helmet shape but I abandoned it because I accidentally made the mask/ mandible part too short so my helmet is a little small around my face.

I actually considered doing that as well, but after seeing how well a few of these have come out, I decided to stick as close to the guides as I could.

I'm heading out now to check the RC shop.

TTYL Guys, and thanks again!
 

coffeehedake

New Hunter
Dang... the RC shop went out of business a few months ago! No luck on the Styrene at Home Depot, they had Clear Polycarbonate Plexiglass, glass, and so forth, PVC piping, and For Sale signs (smaller than the ones at Wal-Mart which I have butchered) but no ABS sheets or the like. I stopped at an art store, and AC Moore (arts and crafts) but they also had nothing, just posterboard and foamboard.

I did however, pick this up at Home Depot:
oatey.jpg


It specifically says it is for PVC and ABS plastics. I suppose it is really meant to bond PVC piping joints, but do you think it might be what I'm looking for?

I'll guess I'll have to wait for my 48"x96" sheet of Styrene and my Reference Photo discs to come in the mail before I continue work on the project. :(

- Coffee
 

coffeehedake

New Hunter
Stopped by FastSigns today, and they sold me the ONLY sheet of PolyStyrene they had, which happened to be 48"x96" in White. It was a lot more than the Black sheet I ordered ($65.00!!!) but I didn't care, because I want to get started on this now.

alotofpolystyrene.jpg


Had a nice chat with the folks that work there.

Before I found FastSigns, right down the street was a smaller sign shop called SignSource, which is privately owned. I had a long chat with the manager, Mark Williams, who was very knowledable about the material, even though he didn't stock it regularly.

He explained that Styrene is typically used for cheap throw-away signs for promotions, when a quick and dirty solution is necessary. He says it has a short shelf life, and brittles horribly due to temperature and light exposure (even indoor lighting). It has a tendency to yellow, as well, and he asked me a few questions about why I needed the material. I explained the basics, and he recommended I look into an industrial plastics supplier by the name of Industrial Safety Supply, who may have sheets of ABS plastic that would be suitable for things like American Football/Baseball helmets, as it is a lot more robust, but is much more expensive.

For now, I think I will stick to the plan, and use the Polystyrene, since the helmet will be painted, reinforced, and glued. Mark wasn't sure about the malleability of the thicker ABS under heat, but thought it would probably be about the same, but recommended I talk to ISS, since they deal with the materials constantly.

I'll speak with the folks at ISS later, but for now, I have more than enough Polystyrene to make a bucket, and probably the rest of the plastic parts of my armor. Not to mention, I still have another 48"x96" sheet on its way here, in fact at the moment it's in Ohio. ;)
 

digifett

Hunter
You like it huge coffe aren't you? Can't wait to see your Mendalorian Empire!
How thick is the material? I use 1mm material only, I have many other material thicknesses available, but I like the 1mm most.

See here I bend the 1mm (0.04") material "cold" at 20 °C (68°F)

BendCold.jpg

I could bend it even more it would not break very easy.

Compared to the 2mm material, about at the same tension force.

BendColdThick.JPG
 

coffeehedake

New Hunter
I am not exactly sure what the thickness of the material is, suffice to say, it is probably 3 or 4 times THICKER than the garage sale signs, and MUCH more flexible, actually it seems to do exactly what you are showing, except that the piece I am playing with is substantially larger (and more difficult to manipulate).

I believe it is probably 1mm material, however, I didn't check that when I bought it, and I don't have the material in front of me at the moment. (At work). I will be sure to measure it when I get home.

At the very least, I can say that the Polypropylene that I have now is much easier to work with than the for sale signs. Not sure why... but it seems less likely to snap.

Is that Cement I posted ealier going to work with this stuf, u think Digi?
 

digifett

Hunter
Is that Cement I posted ealier going to work with this stuf, u think Digi?

I guess so, yes. But I would try the behavior first on a small piece. See how the material reacts. Does it melt or not, usually it's welds together by a chemical reaction. That's also the reason why a cement is often called "welder".
 

coffeehedake

New Hunter
Sounds like a plan, thanks Digifett.

I came home to get a drill for some work I am doing at my job, and found, to my surprise, that the 2nd roll of Polystyrene had arrived from US Plastics!

It's about the same thickness as what i bought from FastSigns, but textured on one side, and black. I'm guessing then that the white sheet I bought from FastSigns is in fact 1mm thickness.

The sheet from US Plastics seems tougher, but I'll have to play with it when I get home from work later. Thanks for responding again Digi!

What do u think of my old Max render of the bucket? I probably still have the MAX file here somewhere...


Hmm... looking at my order, the black sheet is actually 1/16th of an inch in thickness... which is a little thicker than a millimeter... ouch. Well, worst case scenario, I have a lot of material to use for the armor pieces.
 

coffeehedake

New Hunter
glued_polypropylene.jpg


Wow, that cement worked really well on my test squares. It DOES weld the two pieces, I noticed around the edges that I could see the plastic had bonded together. PERFECT! It sets in around a minute, and permanently bonds in under an hour.

Should I be using the pipe primer that is typically used on PVC, or is that unnecessary? I didn't try it for the test, and the two pieces are bonded together well enough so that no matter how hard I pull, I cannot pull the pieces apart under my own strength.


I have been told that on the back of the helmet in the verticle section they used a casio calculator circuit board is this ture?

Zeljin, yep, as far as I know, but check BobaMaker's site, he actually sells a molded version of the circuit board used.

http://bobamaker.co.uk/MQ-1.html
 

coffeehedake

New Hunter
Ok, there's one area of WoF's template I'm a little confused about:

Page20_ThisArea.jpg


Is the area highlighted in red meant to be removed? Is it meant to over lap there? Or is it just part of the design?

I'm trying to figure out where the seam is supposed to be, and I wasn't sure if that thin strip is meant to be cut off, or left alone.

Suggestions?
 

wizardofflight

Well-Known Hunter
That is extra material, if you use the internial frame method. When the material is rapped around the frame it is not always a prefect fit so I added a little extra material that could be trimmed as needed. digifett's method doesn't use the interal frame so it can be removed.

Alan
 

digifett

Hunter
I have been told that on the back of the helmet in the verticle section they used a casio calculator circuit board is this ture?

Yes you are right, you can see it behind the keyslots shown in Post #52.
I baught it also from babamaker, also you find the in US ebay a lot.

Is the area highlighted in red meant to be removed? Is it meant to over lap there? Or is it just part of the design?

See Post #51 there you will find more informations.
I would suggest you read everything very carefully, if you find things their not mentioned there please let me know, I always try to help then.
I am happy you found your right material now (y)

That is extra material, if you use the internial frame method.

I think I like your method next time when I would build another one ;)

What do u think of my old Max render of the bucket? I probably still have the MAX file here somewhere..

Well, you actually hit my nerv there, when you carefully read my bio you will know why. You should visit my website also...
 

coffeehedake

New Hunter
See Post #51 there you will find more informations.
I would suggest you read everything very carefully, if you find things their not mentioned there please let me know, I always try to help then.

Sorry, yeah I couldn't tell from the picture if that small piece was what you had overlapped... That's why I asked, you know the old saying... measure twice, cut once...

Well, you actually hit my nerv there, when you carefully read my bio you will know why. You should visit my website also...

Hehe, yeah I took a look at your website (although I'm definitely not fluent in German) and your profile. I was a little confused at first though, when you said "you hit my nerve there" I thought you were mad for some reason...

Glad to see a fellow Modeler/Animator out there... Though I don't do it professionally, not since college. I do still have the Max files here someplace, if you'd like to have a look, I'd be happy to give them to you. I'm sure you could probably model out a better one easily, especially since the model is well over 4 years old!

Thanks again Digi, and WizardofFlight!

- Coffee
 

digifett

Hunter
Hehe, yeah I took a look at your website (although I'm definitely not fluent in German)

Yes, I am sorry my fault, but the english version is currently "out of date" and temporarily I took it out . If you saw the demoreel you saw the newest projects.
Of course you can not make me mad with a 3D object :) You will need much much much more to make me mad. You 3D helmet is quite accurate, only the color confused me a little ;)
 

coffeehedake

New Hunter
Thanks Digi. I kinda thought that as I posted it, since it is quite red. I had 2 other versions that I do not have the renders from anymore, one was an unweathered ESB Boba, and an unweathered Jango as well.
 

Koolboarder4

New Hunter
hello i am new here and i had some questions about your awesome helmet :) did you use the inner surfase template at all in your build or just the mask ones twice? and if you used the same template twice how did you bind the top of the helmet to the body part? does it just fit inside? or on top? thanks and awesome helmet!
 

Koolboarder4

New Hunter
Hence I used cardboard for the inner parts I could not use hot water to cook the helmet in its shape, so I had to use the oven. At 100°C (212°F) I "baked" the "Boba barrel" for only 3 min.!

Did it make a nasty smoke in your oven?

never mind i figured out answers to both questions
 
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