BoochmaN's ROTJ WIP

SHOULDERS & KNEES:
It’s been a productive few days - I laid down the yellow layer on both the shoulders and knees, then peeled off the first layer of masking. I then used the templates to transfer the next layer of damage, and painted the final color on everything. This was done over the course of 4 days or so.

These pieces I really enjoyed painting. I used rattlecans, and alternated yellow and bursts of orange until I got something I like! For the most part, I did an overall misting of orange, but then localized color at big damage areas, and some edges.

I’ll be peeling off the masking tomorrow (I hope).
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SHOULDERS & KNEES:
I must say that peeling the maskol off of these pieces was oddly satisfying. I can only imagine how it must be for the larger pieces - I’m getting excited about doing those now too!

What’s left on these? Well, I plan to do some acrylic washes, and some fine scratches with my picks, files and wire brush. I’m happy with how the damage came out so far tho! Also, it’s crazy how much lighting can change the appearance of the color - makes me feel like I need to do all my work outside from now on...
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I’m going to be putting on one of those easy & simple skull decals...

Which is also screen-accurate ;)

The contrasting of the orange and yellows on the knees and shoulders looks pretty sweeeet! Seriously don't change a thing (except add the mythosaur and the rings on the knee dart launchers lol). Over weathering can gravely affect the base color of the parts to the point where they are no longer accurate. So put down your black misting spray can and pick up your sealer :) Whatever you do, dont add that ugly black scrape on the left shoulder!

I totally appreciate your approach to a more realistic look but I just have a couple points related to your perception of the ROTJ Hero costume and how your current build aligns with the new 501st requirements for ROTJ.

The tower detail. There are so many references that show the detail clearly, just wondering why you went with a bulky every day light switch?
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Based on the stunt gauntlet you have chosen to loosely represent on the right, switches were never present (only pilot holes).
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The rust all over the metal pieces is really well done but just isn't seen on the hero kit or on the more recent costume displays from years later. The only surviving gauntlet with switches is the PP2/ROTJ SE (not ROTJ Hero) gauntlet and those switches were painted a matching red.
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Your spats are pretty much brown and while there is some slight slight browning, these should be a pale light grey with almost a bluish hue to them. They should contrast heavily against the weathering of the lower legs and the boots.
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The cape didn't have any paint weathering, only tatters and tears.
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The knife shin tool wasn't used in ROTJ, only the sonic beam weapon and the anti-security blade. Also, the heavy weathering looks great but isn't "hero" accurate.
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If you haven't already, check out the BHG's Fugitive Recovery pre-approval program. Basically we work with you through your build and once everything is sufficed for Basic, we reach out directly to the GML and provide our blessing, so to speak. Check it out.

jw
 

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Which is also screen-accurate ;)

The contrasting of the orange and yellows on the knees and shoulders looks pretty sweeeet! Seriously don't change a thing (except add the mythosaur and the rings on the knee dart launchers lol). Over weathering can gravely affect the base color of the parts to the point where they are no longer accurate. So put down your black misting spray can and pick up your sealer :) Whatever you do, dont add that ugly black scrape on the left shoulder! Noted! I was going to weather them with some watered down acrylics and sponge. Also add some finer detail scratches with my wire brush and files - nothing too crazy cause I LOVE how they look!

I totally appreciate your approach to a more realistic look but I just have a couple points related to your perception of the ROTJ Hero costume and how your current build aligns with the new 501st requirements for ROTJ. THANK YOU! What took you so long?!? Hahaha, seriously tho - this feedback is invaluable, and the comments and information are very much appreciated. Ok, now lay into me...haha!

The tower detail. There are so many references that show the detail clearly, just wondering why you went with a bulky every day light switch? I carved MUCH of the light switch away. It’s not as large as you may think, actually. I thought about placing a scale figure in some images to give an indication of size.
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Based on the stunt gauntlet you have chosen to loosely represent on the right, switches were never present (only pilot holes). So that’s a bummer. My gauntlets came with the switches permanently fixed on the inside (like, they are molded in...). Not to mention, the switches were going to be used to activate my RF servo.
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The rust all over the metal pieces is really well done but just isn't seen on the hero kit or on the more recent costume displays from years later. The only surviving gauntlet with switches is the PP2/ROTJ SE (not ROTJ Hero) gauntlet and those switches were painted a matching red. So if I am building the hero version, am I not supposed to reference the CRL images? I totally understand the push buttons not being present on the ROTJ Hero (that’s pretty cut and dry), BUT when it comes to weathering and rust - it’s shown on the CRL images. Just curious.
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Your spats are pretty much brown and while there is some slight slight browning, these should be a pale light grey with almost a bluish hue to them. They should contrast heavily against the weathering of the lower legs and the boots. I saw this one coming, and they’ll have a nice “steel blue” misting coming their way...hahaha!
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The cape didn't have any paint weathering, only tatters and tears. I can throw it in the wash to take back some of the weathering. Again tho, the CRL cape has dirt/ grime weathering shown. I hope you don’t take any of this as me being difficult either, hahaha. Just trying to get clarification before I continue to use that as one of my resources.
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The knife shin tool wasn't used in ROTJ, only the sonic beam weapon and the anti-security blade. Also, the heavy weathering looks great but isn't "hero" accurate. I will take the weathering back some (I get carried away). The knife I just did for fun, and to practice airbrushing.
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If you haven't already, check out the BHG's Fugitive Recovery pre-approval program. Basically we work with you through your build and once everything is sufficed for Basic, we reach out directly to the GML and provide our blessing, so to speak. Check it out. I will definitely check it out! I appreciate your feedback and opinion on my build!!! At this point I am shooting for basic approval - I wanted infamous, but for some reason my gauntlets from Fettpride are NOT crisp (?); I was somewhat doomed from the start with those I guess. What are your thoughts on the alco switches!?! What have you seen others do to activate their servos?

jw
 
SHOULDERS & KNEES:
Now that Halloween is over, I am able to focus on my build! Tonight, I weathered the shoulders and knees. I used acrylic washes of black, grey, burnt umber and red to get the desired weathering.

I purchased decals from Lucksy31, and will rewash the left shoulder after I apply the mythos skull!
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Hey how
SHOULDERS & KNEES:
Now that Halloween is over, I am able to focus on my build! Tonight, I weathered the shoulders and knees. I used acrylic washes of black, grey, burnt umber and red to get the desired weathering.

I purchased decals from Lucksy31, and will rewash the left shoulder after I apply the mythos skull!View attachment 180894View attachment 180895View attachment 180896View attachment 180897View attachment 180898View attachment 180899
How are you applying masking fluid? Just hand painting it on? That’s what I’ve been doing with mixed results. Sometimes the paint comes through the mask.
 
Hey how

How are you applying masking fluid? Just hand painting it on? That’s what I’ve been doing with mixed results. Sometimes the paint comes through the mask.
Hey! I’m using maskol masking fluid, and I’m putting it on rather thick. I’ve heard that it’s better to put it on thick than put it on thin and wish you put it on thick...I am applying with micro brushes from Hobby Lobby. All different sizes depending on the damage!

Anyways, paint layer should allow to dry for 24 hours, then apply, let that dry for 24 hours, then paint, dry 24 hours, then peel. I have been peeling the maskol with each layer, and re-masking with the next layer of paint. Some people layer the maskol too and peel at the end, but I didn’t want to mess up and not know it until the end, haha!
 
Thanks for the tips! I could definitely put it on thicker and probably wait longer. I’ll give that a go!! Unfortunately I’m gonna have to redo the pair on my ab plate though. It’s always a learning process lol!
 
SHOULDERS & KNEES:
I received some wonderful decals today from Lucksy31 . I applied the left shoulder, and weathered using graphic sticks shaved with an exacto. I used this technique on the fabric weathering as well. Came out great, and I also weathered the right knee with charcoal colored graphite to get it slightly darker than the left!

Now I’m ready to attach my elastic to the knees - how does this placement look...?
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Ok folks - I NEED HELP & OPINIONS...

I had plans to attach my hoses to the right gauntlet. Where the hoses are supposed to connect, there is what appears to be a washer (with a small hole in the center, much like a washer). I planned to drill out this hole deeper into the attachment location, so that I can embed a small rod into the gauntlet for support. I then was going to attach the hose over the top of that rod.

My issue is that upon drilling into the gauntlet, I realized the entire end piece (washer, tapered connector, threaded piece, etc.) are indeed, metal. My drill bit doesn't do much here...Wondering what my options might be? I'd like to drill it out more than the 1/4" that it is currently drilled out to get better attachment, but is there something else I can do. Can I solder the small rod in place (I cannot weld) since it's all metal...?
 
KNEES & GAUNTLETS:
Tonight I was able to scarify the back of the knees with my Dremel and epoxy some heavy duty snaps on them.

I also took the opportunity to weather the knee straps. I used ground up pastels to do them, similar to how I’ve done other soft parts so far.

AND I was able to make some progress on the gauntlet hose anchors. I sat with my drill on the ends of those “fittings” for a long time, and was able to drill through the metal portion, into some vac-formed goodness. My issue was that I had no idea how these things were constructed By Fettpride. I still don’t know, but I don’t care I guess cause I was able to get decent embedment of the steel rods!

Lastly, I modified my ankle straps per comments I’ve received. I took some comparison pictures to give you an idea of what color they used to be (beige), and what color they are now (greyish blue, to match the flightsuit). To change the color of these, I wet the material, and used the same ground up pastels to “dye” the material.
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KNEES & GAUNTLETS
Small update, but I weathered and attached my knee straps.

I also drilled out some wooden dowels, and epoxied them onto the steel reinforcing on the gauntlets. That way the hoses are just friction fit over the dowels.

Speaking of the hoses, I’ve had them soaking in a concoction of leftover coffee, tea bags, and some acrylic paints for about 1 month - they are starting to yellow, and not look brand new...PERFECT!
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GAUNTLETS & ARMOR:
Doing what I can here and there. My flight suit needs to be tailored, and I’d like to have the neck seal attached to it (currently separate). I spoke with Arkady about this, and I’m hoping to have her make the adjustments!

It wouldn’t be wise to weather those soft parts if they need adjusting, so I worked on my gauntlets instead. I did some cord management in the left gauntlet to clean up the electronics and prevent myself from
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ripping anything out while putting it on and off. I then added industrial strength Velcro to both gauntlets, and glued padding into them for a tighter fit, and to prevent them from rolling! Works great!

I’ve also marked out the silver damage on my armor, but haven’t applied maskol yet cause it’s too cold to paint still...
 
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