Armor Attachment Method: Jewelry Pins with Clutch Backs.

Very neat idea!! With the locking backs, how difficult are they to remove? What would be the best adhesive for ABS/vac formed plates that would hold up to the pull of removing a plate?
Liking this a lot more than punching grommet holes into another vest lol
 

clmayfield

Active Hunter
The locking backs certainly make them a bit of a pain to remove, but it also makes it very secure. I lost a few clutch pin backs. Since I moved to the locking backs, I haven't lost a single one.

As to adhesives, I did it in two steps. First, I used CYA (superglue/zap-a-gap) to set the pin in place, then I used a healthy dose of two part epoxy over the pin. CYA glue by itself probably would have worked just fine.

Purists like the bolt and grommet method because that was the screen used method, but I have to say that this method is a lot easier, cheaper, and less permanent. After wearing mine a couple of times, I decided I needed to move the plates down a bit. It took about 20-30 minutes to move all of the front plates. Not that big of a deal. And I won't have to worry about it again.
 

Builder

Hunter
Just had our ESB Boba 501st approved. When I saw this suggestion on the original post a year ago it made too much sense not to try it. Used clutch backs and they work just fine. None have come off yet and it was fast and easy to place the armor from the start.
 

Fettastic

Active Hunter
Very neat idea!! With the locking backs, how difficult are they to remove? What would be the best adhesive for ABS/vac formed plates that would hold up to the pull of removing a plate?
Liking this a lot more than punching grommet holes into another vest lol
The locking backs by design are made to be more secure and therefore more difficult to remove, however it is not permanent so it just takes a little time loosening the set screws. I've been using the clutch backs on 3 different armor sets since I created this thread and I've done a quite a bit of trooping. I haven't lost 1 clutch back while trooping.

As I stated in the first post, I recommend 5M quick cure two part epoxy. It bonds very well with ABS/Vac formed material. Again, 3 different sets of armor with this method, many troops, and not one of the pin backs have come off or one clutch back.
 
Tonight, I put my magnets aside and followed this thread to attach my plates and the results are fantastic. I used the locking backs and gave each piece an hour to cure, and after taking the vest off and on multiple times, everything stayed put! Thanks for the great idea!
 

ShortFuse

Hunter
Bought some pins and rubber clutch backs the other day.. I gotta say! I think I like the rubber ones, just a much as the metal ones! These work great!
Are they like these? 288AEBC6-8D0F-4C00-88E7-E34619FC07B6.jpeg
Unfortunately, the rubber ones will wear out and probably fall off over time. I have those type for my work uniform and they suck.
 

ShortFuse

Hunter
As much as they will be rubbing against the flightsuit on the inside, the holes will soon become stretched out and they will fall off.
 

clmayfield

Active Hunter
Nice spacing, JReevy! One of my pet peeves is people spacing the armor out too much. It is really tight with a decent sized gap between the collar and chest pieces. The advantage of the jewelry pin method is that if you get the spacing wrong, it is really easy to change and then keep it like that. Even if I were going to do the screen accurate bolt and eyelet style, I would still probably make the eyelets, then use the jewelry pin method to assure that everything is properly aligned before gluing in the bolts.
 
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