Not yet that I've heard of. I guess it would depend on how heavy the metal armor is. If it's really heavy I would probably want something more stout like bolts and grommets but I imagine if you JB weld enough of the pins it should tie in pretty well to the flak vest. I hope you give it a try and let us know how it goes!
For the shoulder bells I would recommend placing them approximately 2 inches away from the edge of the top of the armor. This will allow the armor tilt downward and not stick too far out like wings. I'll try and take some photos and get exact measurements to show this.
I also got word from Catbread, aka Raizo, that he has tried this method trooping and had zero issues with the chest armor but did have issues with them bending at his knee attachments...note: I wouldn't recommend using these pins for knee attachments. .
For the knees I would recommend using large sewing snaps on the inside of the knee at opposite points. I glued the male end of the snaps inside the knees and then sewed the female portion to the corresponding location on the suit. This way the knee armor has a pivot point when you walk. Then I cut slits on the elastic straps to place them over the male snaps and glued those in place so when you snap the knees to the suit, the snaps pin the elastic in between. In addition to the elastic strapping in the back, also use Velcro at the front on top just underneath the return edge of the knee armor.
I haven't tried it yet but I'm going to. I plan on using the clutch backs as well since I preferred them over the set screw type. I actually was moving some pins around the other day with the clutch backs and they hold super well.
I did it. I started with the standard backings, but had an order in for the locking backs with the set screws. I lost 2 of the standard backers just in the week or so before I ordered the set screw version. Since installing the set screw backers, I have not lost a single backer. Was concerned about the comfort of the longish backers poking into me, but I don't notice them.
While this isn't the "screen accurate" way to do the attachment, I love it. Mistakes are very correctible. It is easy enough to remove a plate and return it. Even if I were going to do the "screen accurate" eyelet and bolt way, I would glue in the pins, make my eyelet holes, install with the jewelry pins, and then mark my bolts for gluing in.
I have no plans to do that, though. This method works great on its own.
Hey guys! This is an awesome idea! I am loving the ease and adjustibility of these! I am definitely going to go this route! Quick question for those more experienced with the 5m quick cure... is that safe to use on styrene? I am getting Wasted Fett's Hero set of armor. Not sure if it would have any impact on the styrene parts negatively... if so, any alternative you suggest i use to glue the pins to the back of the armor? Thanks for all the research and ideas you guys shared. There seems to be no real downfall to these!
This thread should really be pinned, although that part of the forum is getting a little crowded. I love this idea. I keep suggesting on the mercs forum that new people should consider this. I haven't tried it yet, but it's gotta be more effective than trying to figure out snap/velcro placement, and it's way less work than the eyelets and bolts method. I have two mando kits (snaps and velcro) and an RS Boba Fett (eyelets and bolts), but this will be my method for the next build I inevitably attempt.
I am going this route too! I have my pins/backs just a matter of attaching! This really is a brilliant idea. (Thank you Lou for guiding me in this direction... this saves me the scare of screwing up snaps!)