General WIP ESB Boba Fett; scratch build progress updates
- Thread starter Gregory
- Start date
Gregory
Active Hunter
Disaster!
I went to move my ammo belt and girth belt to my garage for storage, and found trouble. It looks like the hot glue I used to assemble my ammo belt is un-sticking. It's not sticking and leaving behind a greasy film. Must be a reaction between the vinyl and glue, or just bad/inappropriate glue. I'm off in search of a less-flexible version, I think this was a very flexible "all-purpoose" stick.
Sigh.
I went to move my ammo belt and girth belt to my garage for storage, and found trouble. It looks like the hot glue I used to assemble my ammo belt is un-sticking. It's not sticking and leaving behind a greasy film. Must be a reaction between the vinyl and glue, or just bad/inappropriate glue. I'm off in search of a less-flexible version, I think this was a very flexible "all-purpoose" stick.
Sigh.
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cyberpyrot
Active Hunter
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Gregory
Active Hunter
I'll try both of those things, but I think it's a glue stick formulation problem. The glue is softening and un-sticking, becoming more flexible and seems to be giving off a grease or oil. Thanks for the ideas!
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That looks horrible. I'll take it off your hands. I'm sure your next try will be much better for your keeper.
Great job! And seriously, if you feel like doing another, I need one. LMK how much it'd be.
Great build. Thanks for all the pics!
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Gregory
Active Hunter
That looks horrible. I'll take it off your hands. I'm sure your next try will be much better for your keeper.
Great job! And seriously, if you feel like doing another, I need one. LMK how much it'd be.
Great build. Thanks for all the pics!
Sadly it would cost too much, you could get one cheaper elsewhere. It takes a long time to sand all the saw marks away. You can get one from toolguy301 for less than $20. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/csbprops?section=Rangefinder&s=0
Thanks for the compliments! I have a ways to go; flak vest, rifle re-do, sidearm, armor re-do, helmet tweaks, gloves, proper wookie scalps, back armor, jetpack tweaks, the list seems endless but I'll get there!
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Gregory
Active Hunter
Started fitting my salamanderking rangefinder LED's and servo. Ended up breaking my existing plywood rangefinder stalk, so I made a new one from two layers of 3mm sintra. This allowed me to locate the servo armature on the outside, and therefore the servo similarly further outside on the helmet end. I rough-cut my stalk shapes and ran them through a table saw to create the grooves that when mated, made a channel for wires. I shaped the stalk on my belt sander after gluing the halves together. The glue I'm using is multi-purpose plumber's cement that works on PVC and ABS.
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Gregory
Active Hunter
Got my salamander king rangefinder up and running, exciting to see it work. I made the rangefinder housing from 3mm sintra as well, and my prism fit well. Finding room for the electronics is a challenge, I wonder if my helmet is smaller than it should be.
http://vid58.photobucket.com/albums...a Fett/VID_20160308_211633110_zpstzm2eo2u.mp4
I have some details to work out, including maybe needing to get a rigid/metal rangefinder stalk (my sintra one has a lot of flex which creates some bounce in the servo action) and/or making a lighter rangefinder lens prism. The prism I made from acrylic is pretty heavy, which also contributes to the bounce I'm worried about.
I went to my local 501st meet'n'greet last night and was impressed and a little overwhelmed, it was a large group, of very friendly people and there were a lot of examples of great costumes if the helmets and other parts people brought were any indication.
http://vid58.photobucket.com/albums...a Fett/VID_20160308_211633110_zpstzm2eo2u.mp4
I have some details to work out, including maybe needing to get a rigid/metal rangefinder stalk (my sintra one has a lot of flex which creates some bounce in the servo action) and/or making a lighter rangefinder lens prism. The prism I made from acrylic is pretty heavy, which also contributes to the bounce I'm worried about.
I went to my local 501st meet'n'greet last night and was impressed and a little overwhelmed, it was a large group, of very friendly people and there were a lot of examples of great costumes if the helmets and other parts people brought were any indication.
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Gregory
Active Hunter
Reassembled my dome to my helmet. I took it off to reshape it and get rid of the pointy-ness it had. Also multiple coats of sanding primer to smooth it out. Then repainted a more olive color, along with other parts that needed the lighter color.
Finally got to detailing the ears and other parts with paint pens. Did my first try at liquid masking, when I repainted my kill stripes. I forgot to buy some liquid masking at the hobby store so made a mixture of spackle paste and water. Worked great. Needs weathering and more damage, but I'm getting there.
Finally got to detailing the ears and other parts with paint pens. Did my first try at liquid masking, when I repainted my kill stripes. I forgot to buy some liquid masking at the hobby store so made a mixture of spackle paste and water. Worked great. Needs weathering and more damage, but I'm getting there.
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Gregory
Active Hunter
Did some sewing recently. Finally made up a flak vest using Darth Mule's tutorial. I used the same lightweight cotton fabric (pre-washing it this time) as my flight suit. I put a "hidden" zipper on the shoulder and side, so that I can easily put it on and take it off myself. I also made a pocket on the back side near the side opening for the battery pack for my Fettronics chest display. The shoulder tabs and neck seal are quilted with thin batting. I put a zipper on the front of the neck seal as well. Originally I sewed the neck seal to the vest but that didn't work well and seems unnecessary. At first I was thinking the seal and vest overall were too small, but it seems to work right. A little snug perhaps for a lot of movement, so I'll enlarge it slightly for the version 2.0.
I glued 12mm neodynium magnets to my armor (now considered prototype armor since I'm going to redo it with sintra) and steel washers inside the vest. While it works pretty well, I think I need stronger magnets, or larger (19mm?). I'm trying to avoid magnets on the vest part so that it can be washed etc. The worst are the shoulder bells as the padding weakens the bond. Gluing the washers to the outside might work best, and will be what I try next. I love the ability to place the armor on like Iron Man.
Overall I'm please with the look. This was the first time I suited up fully since the Episode VII premier. I've still got to sew pads onto my gloves (dress gloves purchase online) redo my armor (currently illustration board and also maybe too big). And a lot of weathering of course. I'm still wondering if the chest armor is too big. Maybe it won't be when I redo it in sintra and the edges are more curved. Illustration board makes the armor look flat, because it pretty much is.
I did buy some thicker cotton twill to remake my flightsuit and vest from now that I have a prototype to work off of. The cotton (muslin?) I made my stuff from originally is thin and it shows in how it wrinkles etc. I also think the flak vest is too clean, a light dying and some weathering is in order. I want to get this prototype version looking right before I remake it. When I remake the flight suit I'll make the thigh and hip pouches larger and with more accurate flaps.
I glued 12mm neodynium magnets to my armor (now considered prototype armor since I'm going to redo it with sintra) and steel washers inside the vest. While it works pretty well, I think I need stronger magnets, or larger (19mm?). I'm trying to avoid magnets on the vest part so that it can be washed etc. The worst are the shoulder bells as the padding weakens the bond. Gluing the washers to the outside might work best, and will be what I try next. I love the ability to place the armor on like Iron Man.
Overall I'm please with the look. This was the first time I suited up fully since the Episode VII premier. I've still got to sew pads onto my gloves (dress gloves purchase online) redo my armor (currently illustration board and also maybe too big). And a lot of weathering of course. I'm still wondering if the chest armor is too big. Maybe it won't be when I redo it in sintra and the edges are more curved. Illustration board makes the armor look flat, because it pretty much is.
I did buy some thicker cotton twill to remake my flightsuit and vest from now that I have a prototype to work off of. The cotton (muslin?) I made my stuff from originally is thin and it shows in how it wrinkles etc. I also think the flak vest is too clean, a light dying and some weathering is in order. I want to get this prototype version looking right before I remake it. When I remake the flight suit I'll make the thigh and hip pouches larger and with more accurate flaps.
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Gregory
Active Hunter
Started on my gloves last night, made a little progress tonight. I made the quilted patches on my sewing machine and am hand-stitching them on. I'm beginning to think buying them is a better idea. But, I also like being able to say I made them. Gloves are from Gloves-Online, Inc, 2 pairs for $13 shipped, the mold is a honey jar. Still need to do the fingers.
Gregory
Active Hunter
Started my armor key connectors today. Bought a $2 keyboard at Goodwill and popped 8 keys off. Ground them square at the bottom (they are tapered), and sanded the tops flat. Glad to find the inside was flat where the outside was curved, so I didn't sand through. Then I carved out the key's attachment structure. After sanding, I brought them indoors and fitted M5x1.0 nuts/bolts and embedded the nuts into the keys using JB weld. When they've set up and dried, I'll remove the bolts, sand them flush and add a nylon washer to prevent future armor scratching. Additional longer keys are for the codpiece, I'll mount them and do a little filling around them.
Donor keyboard:
typical donor key before sanding:
After sanding on my belt sander to square it up and flatten the top:
After sculpting out the backside (bottom of back recess is flat!):
Here's the attachment that needs to be removed from the backside:
Keys after all machining; 6 for collar, cod joints and 2 for cod right front side.
After JB Weld and nut embedment. After curing overnight, I'll unscrew the bolts and sand flush.
Donor keyboard:
typical donor key before sanding:
After sanding on my belt sander to square it up and flatten the top:
After sculpting out the backside (bottom of back recess is flat!):
Here's the attachment that needs to be removed from the backside:
Keys after all machining; 6 for collar, cod joints and 2 for cod right front side.
After JB Weld and nut embedment. After curing overnight, I'll unscrew the bolts and sand flush.
Stormcrow85
Hunter
Gregory
Active Hunter
First attempt at back armor, using 3mm sintra:
First I used Alan Sinclair's templates to trace the outline onto my 3mm PVC sheet.
Then I cut it out with a scrollsaw. Next I shaped the edges with my router and a 1/8"R roundover bit. Then the fun began with my heatgun and various iterations of shaping it to fit. Still fine tuning that.
Since my jetpack only weighs 2 lbs and change, I'm going to try supporting it from the back armor only using some white webbing I bought today. Wish me luck, planning to troop at my local comic store on saturday, Free Comic Book Day.
First I used Alan Sinclair's templates to trace the outline onto my 3mm PVC sheet.
Then I cut it out with a scrollsaw. Next I shaped the edges with my router and a 1/8"R roundover bit. Then the fun began with my heatgun and various iterations of shaping it to fit. Still fine tuning that.
Since my jetpack only weighs 2 lbs and change, I'm going to try supporting it from the back armor only using some white webbing I bought today. Wish me luck, planning to troop at my local comic store on saturday, Free Comic Book Day.
