Pistols Westar-34 MR quality full metal repoductions.

bucketheadprops

Jr Hunter
Managed to get 2 kits :D Anyone have a wiring diagram or even a quick sketch of how you have yours wired up? I know it's a simple circuit but can't quite figure out what goes where
 

bucketheadprops

Jr Hunter
The assembly instructions on the vendor website didnt have that information?
Hi, it does kind of, but scattered through the build thread and I'm just not very clear on what runs to where, and don't want to wire it up wrong. Have all the LEDs wired up together, but just need to run to the battery and switch neatly and efficiently
 

Rang932

New Hunter
Hi, it does kind of, but scattered through the build thread and I'm just not very clear on what runs to where, and don't want to wire it up wrong. Have all the LEDs wired up together, but just need to run to the battery and switch neatly and efficiently
Hey Buckethead,

I bought this kit a few months ago, and ran into similar problems you're describing. I've attached a wiring diagram of my own blaster (excuse the bad photoshop skills).

I wasn't satisfied with the trigger feel and it wasn't actuating 100% of the time. additionally I wanted more of a tactile feedback. It just so happens that the width of the trigger channel will accept a mini tactile button switch, like this one: 100 Pcs GZFY 6x6x4.5mm Panel PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I started by soldering both black negative wires to the button, then fed that up through both the chamber that screws to the handle and the barrel part. Since the brass tube has an opening, that can be slid over the opening at the bottom of the barrel where the wires come through. I also cut a similar channel in the acrylic tube to achieve the same thing.

After that, I soldered the short black wire to the spring in the black cap, and popped that on the end of the tube after I fed the longer wire down towards the flash hider.

Next, I soldered a red wire to the little brass knob that pops into the other black cap and fed that through the hole until it snapped into place. Its worth noting that the brass knob should be closer to where the batteries will sit, since this is the part that will make contact with the battery. Again, I fed the long black wire through the hole in the black cap towards the flash hider.

After that, all that's left to do is solder the positive leads on the LEDS to the positive red wire, and the negative leads on the LEDS to the negative black wire. Obviously make sure the wires aren't too long or anything is exposed, otherwise the wires won't fit in the small cavity, or the circuit will short, respectively.

Before screwing the flash hider on, I would make sure the power pack/gas chamber on the back is already attached. I had a hard time getting it to seat all the way when the flash hider was screwed into place. I had to use a lot of force on the flash hider to get the hole to line up as well.

If you have any more questions feel free to reach out.
 

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bucketheadprops

Jr Hunter
Hey Buckethead,

I bought this kit a few months ago, and ran into similar problems you're describing. I've attached a wiring diagram of my own blaster (excuse the bad photoshop skills).
....
Thank you so much for taking the time, this really helps! That's a good idea with the tactile switches, have some lying around somewhere, will defo do that. 2 blasters coming up :D
 

bucketheadprops

Jr Hunter
Hey Buckethead,

I bought this kit a few months ago, and ran into similar problems you're describing. I've attached a wiring diagram of my own blaster (excuse the bad photoshop skills).
...
If you have any more questions feel free to reach out.
Hi Rang932,
Was just wondering where you placed the tactile switch in the trigger chamber? I had some and, as you said, they fit perfectly! but can't get the positioning right, even in test fitting the trigger, for it to work. The spring also seems to get stuck. Did you add the extra movement mod to the triggers too, as they really don't move much?
 

Rang932

New Hunter
Hi Rang932,
Was just wondering where you placed the tactile switch in the trigger chamber? I had some and, as you said, they fit perfectly! but can't get the positioning right, even in test fitting the trigger, for it to work. The spring also seems to get stuck. Did you add the extra movement mod to the triggers too, as they really don't move much?
Hey bucket,

The switch sits pretty high up in the chamber. I also bent the pins so it would sit flat against the inside of the trigger well. You might also try grinding down the top of the trigger and removing the screw on top to make sure it doesn't get jammed. And I did forget to mention I filed down the tab to increase the trigger movement. All of these together give just enough clearance for the switch to actuate only when the trigger is pulled. It took me several tries to get the positioning right, really just trial and error.
 
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