Transfering Templates to Sintra

GrottyFurball

Active Hunter
Hey I was at a friends the other day who builds balsa planes and he had some templates that he transferred onto the balsa with an iron. I was wondering if anyone has tried this with sintra or if anyone else thinks it may work.
 
Sintra is used for sign making, so I'm sure its possible to put compatible ink on it and have it stick. I'm not sure you can find heat transferable ink for your printer though...

Were his templates something pre-made that he just ironed on, or did he draw the template and use some special ink to do it?

-Brian
 
Sintra will warp under heat. Even fairly low temperatures can cause wobbles in it. I recommend using transfer paper (like carbon paper, or the stuff tailors use on fabric) and then just trace it on.
 
I've always just printed out my patterns, cut them out of paper, then taped them down to the sintra and traced them. If you use a thicker paper like construction paper, it can make it easier to trace, though I usually don't have a problem with regular paper.

-Brian
 
I don't usually have a problem with regular paper, I just thought it might be easier having every line from the patterns on the sintra. I'll give it a try when I get home.
 
Why not buy the 8 1/2 X 11 sheets of vinyl sticky back paper and print your templates out on that? Cut out your template, pull the protection paper off the sticky and then stick it right on the sintra.

Thats what I do for the clan and org logos on my armor. I use an exacto to cut out the pattern, then put the entire sticky paper down on the painted armor and spray paint over the pattern. Wait 4 or 5 hours then pull off the sticky paper and your good to go. I've never had any problems with paint pulling away.
 
Here's a method that works really well for me. Print out your pattern onto paper, as per normal. Trim roughly around the template, leaving the actual lines with paper still surrounding them. I then take a regular glue stick for paper ( either UHU or PRIT will do ), and smear glue onto the back of the paper template. I then stick the paper onto the SINTRA or Styrene and smooth it out. After about a few seconds, I then cut out the pattern. I use my scroll saw, so I've got the lines that I can follow. Once you're finished, you can now peel the paper off and simply rub off any remaining residue.
 
Here's a method that works really well for me. Print out your pattern onto paper, as per normal. Trim roughly around the template, leaving the actual lines with paper still surrounding them. I then take a regular glue stick for paper ( either UHU or PRIT will do ), and smear glue onto the back of the paper template. I then stick the paper onto the SINTRA or Styrene and smooth it out. After about a few seconds, I then cut out the pattern. I use my scroll saw, so I've got the lines that I can follow. Once you're finished, you can now peel the paper off and simply rub off any remaining residue.
That´s the way I do.
Also I use a rolling cutter to cut sintra.

-Thomas
 
This is what I use to transfer drawings to a bigger scale right out of a regular print-out but sometimes I have to scale up or down to print. It works well for me. What I do is attach the medium ie; paper or sintra sheets on the wall from a good distance then put the projector on top of the image to be transferred. From there I trace the image down on the preferred medium.

ArtographTracerProjector.jpg


Artograph-Tracer-02.jpg
 
Using graphite paper is a great idea, except for possible rubbing. It may come off...but for any artists, its something thats laying around the house.

I also love the adhesive paper idea.
 
I've printed out WOF's armor templates on regular copier paper (8.5 X 11) and used Rubber Cement as the adhesive. It's relatively wrinkle-free, it sticks the paper to the Sintra but it is still easy to remove the paper. You can even reposition the paper on the Sintra. Only apply it to one surface. If you need extra hold, apply to both surfaces. It is very forgiving even after two or three days, you can still peel the paper templates off easily. Any excess just rolls right off like latex paint. Relatively cheap ($2 for a bottle), not terribly toxic and readily available. I hope this helps someone out.
 
ok i will tell you the easiest way to do this and i will post in more detail on my build. if you have a smooth plastic surface this works great. if you are on paper you will have to add more glue. on my jet pack build i used plastic sign billboard. the kind for yardsale signs (not the flimsy stuff) or what the use for election signs. i used an old hairspray type bottle and mixed 1 part elmers glue to 2 parts water. i cut out my templates after printing and pasted them where i needed (you can see this on my thread). i cut out the pieces and it peeled right off when i was done. you do have to be caefull. it holds just enough for you to paste and cut. check it out!!! check out my build. please give me pointers if you have them. this is for my daughter. thanks. under prop build show off jet pack : berravecal. i am flying solo on this so i need all the help i can get.
 
Wow thanks guys, all great ideas that are helpful for the newbie like meself.
Was really wondering about how I was gonna get the templates onto the Sintra or whatever I use for the armour, but these ideas are great.
All I can say is thanks :)
 
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