Sanding then paint questions...


Active Hunter
Has anyone used this instead of liquid mask or rubber cement. i found some at Hobby Lobby today for $1.99. Its basicaaly like liquid mask, brush it on, let it dry, paint over it and peel. I didn't buy any yet, just wondering if anyone else has. And speaking of Hobby Lobby, I can't find any model putty and the people I asked didn't know what I was talking about. Should it be in the section with the models or over by the clays and fiberglass casting stuff?
Last edited by a moderator:
Vasoline or clear Silicone works just as well.

Last edited by a moderator:
mindphunk wrote:I can't find any model putty and the people I asked didn't know what I was talking about. Should it be in the section with the models or over by the clays and fiberglass casting stuff?

Michael's would come closer to having it than Hobby Lobby, though I've never seen Squadron Putty in *EITHER* store. I buy my Squadron Putty from a hobby shop for $2.99. I also get my hard-to-find Testors paints (the colors you can't find at Walmart, like Zinc Chromate, etc.) there.

If you want to order online, you can buy Squadron Putty HERE. :)

P.S. - and IF you buy some Squadron Putty, make sure you use it in a *WELL* ventilated area or outside. I used some in my hobby room for about 15 minutes with all the windows open, and I went STUPID (no comments, please! ;)). Took about 45 minutes to get halfway normal again. It does contain Toluene, so be VERY careful! :)
Last edited by a moderator:
1) How fine should you sand parts before you apply the first coats of primer/paint?

2) What grade(s) of sandpaper should you use?

3) Can primer be airbrushed using thinner?

4) Should you paint all armor with a coating of silver underneath, then put the designated armor color on top of that silver?

Any help & responses to these questions is greatly appreciated!! :)
Well Im doing a Jango Fett so question #4 is pretty much a no-brainer.

1. I would start with a 100 or 180 grit to knock down any high spots or burrs. Get it nice and even, and then move up to a 320 for general smooothing. After everything is smooth, give it a once over with 600 grit. <anal paint guy> Then rinse the part with water, and prime with a sandable primer. After, that wet sand the primer with 600 grit paper</anal paint guy> That's it your ready to paint.

2. 100 0r 180, 320, 600... That should pretty much do it, YMMV.

3. I wouldn't use an airbrush to spray primer. Primer contains some pretty thick suspended particles. Since it gives a thicker coat for sanding purposes, I wouldn't try to get away with thinning it. I belive there is an auto-air brand airbush paint that can be used as a primer in an airbrush.

What type of sandpaper is best. I went today. they had one for wood mostly, one for drywall, and an automotive/painting one. none of them said use on plastic. I'm thinking automotive painting unless there is a specific one that says plastic.
Sandpaper is basically sandpaper. Anyone at the store who says differently is trying to sell you something. ;)

True, there ARE certain abrasive papers specifically made for certain materials, but by and large there're pretty much the same. If it helps, buy the sandpaper made for "wood". ;)

If the piece has a lot of seams or burrs on it, I'll knock them down with 40 grit, then move to the 150 grit. Most times I'll primer and paint after that, although a few times I've gone a step further and sanded with 320 grit, although the difference was negligible.

I use Krylon gray primer. It dries in 12 minutes or less (it says so on the can! ;)), and usually covers in one coat. :D
This thread is more than 21 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.