Problem with Rub N' Buff

SWFreak

Active Hunter
When I started applying the Rub N' Buff; it started pulling the primer off the piece. Has anyone else had this problem?

Everything was prepped and wetsanded properly, I can't figure out why it did that?
 

bigkidbiggertoys

Well-Known Hunter
I had the same problem where it turned my top coat into goo. It reacted with the paint even thought the paint had cured for abut two weeks. The only thing I can think of is Rn'B reactes with lacquer paint?
 

bigkidbiggertoys

Well-Known Hunter
I had to sand off all of the crap & start over. I'm not a big fan of Rn'B. I found automotive lacquers produce almost as much shine & are way easier to apply & handle afterwards. I am also going to try Alcad II paint since it is lacquer based, & top coat over that. Shunned has a stunning example of a Jango helmet painted with Alcad II.
 

E2K13

Active Hunter
THe Alcad II is good stuff.
I am a big fan of the Model Masters Buffing Metalizer.
It is a Buffable Laquer that dries in about 10 min. You buff it with a paper towel and it brings it up to a really nice lustre. Finish it off with the Metalizer Sealer and it looks just like metal without the worry of having a "Wax" that will rub off on things that may brush againsed your workpiece. The other benefit of the metalizer is that you can paint on top of it very nicely!
 

Prymer13

Well-Known Hunter
Here is some on my armor. It is only two coats, and I am putting a third on, THEN buffing, but it gives you an idea. I can post "buffed" pics tonight.

DSC02282.JPG
 

E2K13

Active Hunter
If Darren buffs that a bit more, it will come out with a high sheen.
I have a few pics at home that I will post tonight
 

E2K13

Active Hunter
Here is a picture of a test card someone did with various Model Masters buffing Metalizers to compare the sheen buffed and not buffed.

 

E2K13

Active Hunter
THis pic shows a figure painted with the aluminum plate and buffed on one side to show the sheen after buffing:



metalizertorso.jpg
 

bigkidbiggertoys

Well-Known Hunter
DON'T use Rn'B over the Model Master Metalizer paint. That is the paint I had used & the Rn'B reacted with it. It had been drying for about 2 weeks so I would say paint cure was not the problem.
 

E2K13

Active Hunter
Here are my shin tools painted and then buffed with the metalizer. I need to put on the top coat but I started with a black primer and I took a paper towel to smooth out the primer after it was dry. THen sprayed the MEtalizer and let it dry between coats. I applied only 2 coats though. Then After they were dry I buffed them with the paper towel and finished the buffing with a cotton ball.

Here is the squeegee before paint as well as the stir stick comparison of the Buffed and top coat on left with just sprayed and not buffed on right.

Squeegee.jpg


Shin Tool 2.jpg


Shin Tool 3.jpg


Stir Comparison.jpg
 

Foxbatkllr

Well-Known Hunter
Looks pretty good...but I have had no problems with RnB and best of all its extremely cheap! As for Alcad II, that stuff is too reflective for Jango, IMO...
 

E2K13

Active Hunter
Well the Alcad 2 as well as the MM Metalizer can be finished with a really fine steel wool to give it a brushed aluminum look and can be muted by weathering.
It's all in how you work the product. It would definately be way to shiny if you just sprayed it on and left it as is.
 
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