Painting stock to look like wood
- Thread starter Callista
- Start date
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Well-Known Hunter
GCNgamer128
Sr Hunter
I used the Sci-Fire method, I will take a photo and post it in a few minutes.
GCNgamer128
Sr Hunter
First I painted it with white latex paint.
Then I wiped on two different wood stains, first I used "Special Walnut," the "Dark Walnut." After I added those, I sprayed on a coat of "Testors Dullcoat." And here is the finished product.
Then I wiped on two different wood stains, first I used "Special Walnut," the "Dark Walnut." After I added those, I sprayed on a coat of "Testors Dullcoat." And here is the finished product.
Callista
Active Hunter
This is how I did my stock....I got some spray woodstain but it pooled too much.
Instead I have used hobby revell paint...the colours I used are below.
1)...same as others, paint the stock white with long strokes allowing some of the undercolour to show through.
2) I then used a 'stone' colour (revell 16# 'sandy yellow' matt) brushed lightly over the stock and thinly so you can still see the light colour underneth. (sorry I have no photo of this).
3) After the undercoat has become tacky I brushed on the mix of the three paints seen below (39# dark green matt, 153# insignia red, 73# some kind of mat dark red) I brushed this on in the same way but making sure that the undercoat could still be seen through the overcoat.
4) TIP: If you use a brush similar to mine brushing repetitively it looks as though through over use the varnish has been rubbedaway showing the natural wood colour...I thought It looked rather effective.....
5) I will finish it off with some clear spray varnish.
Hope that was clear. Sorry the last photo is so bad, there is too much shine on it. I have been told by a 2nd world war veteran that it looks very similar to the stock of his rifle he used!!...Though i might darken it a bit.
:cheers
Zoe
Instead I have used hobby revell paint...the colours I used are below.
1)...same as others, paint the stock white with long strokes allowing some of the undercolour to show through.
2) I then used a 'stone' colour (revell 16# 'sandy yellow' matt) brushed lightly over the stock and thinly so you can still see the light colour underneth. (sorry I have no photo of this).
3) After the undercoat has become tacky I brushed on the mix of the three paints seen below (39# dark green matt, 153# insignia red, 73# some kind of mat dark red) I brushed this on in the same way but making sure that the undercoat could still be seen through the overcoat.
4) TIP: If you use a brush similar to mine brushing repetitively it looks as though through over use the varnish has been rubbedaway showing the natural wood colour...I thought It looked rather effective.....
5) I will finish it off with some clear spray varnish.
Hope that was clear. Sorry the last photo is so bad, there is too much shine on it. I have been told by a 2nd world war veteran that it looks very similar to the stock of his rifle he used!!...Though i might darken it a bit.
:cheers
Zoe
slave1pilot
Well-Known Hunter
Dudes,
I would strongly recommend the Sci-Fire method.
This is an MG-34 I painted for a guy on MEPD
Here's an outdoor shot without flash
If you are wondering what that silver **** is on the buttstock,
The guy that bought it wanted it signed 8) ( I feel important now)
& a closeup of the woodgrain on the other side
I would strongly recommend the Sci-Fire method.
This is an MG-34 I painted for a guy on MEPD
Here's an outdoor shot without flash
If you are wondering what that silver **** is on the buttstock,
The guy that bought it wanted it signed 8) ( I feel important now)
& a closeup of the woodgrain on the other side
Callista
Active Hunter
lol
I only did the paintjob this way cos it wasnt working the other way for me
:cryslave1pilot
Well-Known Hunter
lol
I only did the paintjob this way cos it wasnt working the other way for me
I wasn't saying it looked bad, I just wanted people to see what it looks like if you follow the tutorial & use the paint Sci-Fire recommends
I know that Mohawk paint is a pain to get
Michaels sells similar paint, but mohawk is still the best.
Mohawk paint is not opaque, so you can see the colors underneath.
I think that is the key to a believable woodgrain
Callista
Active Hunter
I know....I really wanted to do it how the tutorial said...but we cant even get anything like the mohawk stuff over here.....that way deff looks better way of doing it though, it has more depth to it....
Boba Al
New Hunter
Gday guys ive just completed the butt end of a ESB rifle for a friend. Heres the run down of what i did but basically i used a layered method. firstly the satin black on the bottom, then white tamiya acrylic paint in a stroked pattern to give the grain look then then added a layer of Matt spray sealant. Then lightly sanded it to allow the stain to seep in then layer by layer added wood stain (american walnut). I wil be making the whole thing more matt soon!
Sidewinder
Active Hunter
Good job there, don't make it too Matt though, 'cos the real Webleys tend to have a satin/glossy finish.
SAS
SAS
younginfett
Hunter
i used the latex paint/ stain approach but the trick was to use the GEL stain. worked awesome because you can really blend the colors to give it that wood effect like having knots. and it was a hell of alot easier to apply
GCNgamer128
Sr Hunter
I used stain from Wal-Mart, it looks great when I finished it. I really surprised myself, I didn't expect my stock to turn out the way it did.
CombatBaby
Well-Known Hunter
..real wood. it's wonderful.
sci-fire method works for most
sci-fire method works for most
whitecommando
Hunter
I have found that adding another step before sealing with a gloss (or dull) clear coat, is to take acrylic paint, the .99¢ tubes from Michael's or Hobby Lobby, and dry brush this acrylic on top of the wood stain. This may have been mentioned in this thread, I am just showing the results I got by doing it in the order I did it in. I will describe below...
So, by the numbers...
1) Apply light beige latex with a medium-to-small brush all over stock.
2) Wait 5 minutes, and use the brush to streak the base coat to simulate "grain" before latex sets up/dries.
3) Get new brush and apply a coat or two of MinWax Wood Stain (I use Provincial). Leave alone for a full day. It will mostly dry, but there will be some tack to it still.
4) THE NEW STEP I DID ON MY LAST GUN - dry brush acrylic of a differing brown, in varying levels of coverage.
5) After dry, mist very lightly with Satin Black Krylon (Before applying, I put the can of Krylon in a pitcher of warm-to-almost hot water for 10 minutes - it makes the spray particles less likely to clog and makes them finer/smaller).
6) Let dry for several hours. Then use Krylon Crystal Clear. I did 2 coats.
Leave alone for several hours...
Results...
I am pleased with this one. It is a keeper. That is a $60 Styrene Cushman MG-34. A great weapon for the price and it is 3 pounds.
So, by the numbers...
1) Apply light beige latex with a medium-to-small brush all over stock.
2) Wait 5 minutes, and use the brush to streak the base coat to simulate "grain" before latex sets up/dries.
3) Get new brush and apply a coat or two of MinWax Wood Stain (I use Provincial). Leave alone for a full day. It will mostly dry, but there will be some tack to it still.
4) THE NEW STEP I DID ON MY LAST GUN - dry brush acrylic of a differing brown, in varying levels of coverage.
5) After dry, mist very lightly with Satin Black Krylon (Before applying, I put the can of Krylon in a pitcher of warm-to-almost hot water for 10 minutes - it makes the spray particles less likely to clog and makes them finer/smaller).
6) Let dry for several hours. Then use Krylon Crystal Clear. I did 2 coats.
Leave alone for several hours...
Results...
I am pleased with this one. It is a keeper. That is a $60 Styrene Cushman MG-34. A great weapon for the price and it is 3 pounds.
