General Painting Methods and Tips

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Um, dust coat it? :confused

what do you mean by that exactly?
 
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I feel for you partner...

This is a common problem w/ cast resin pieces due to the release agent used in the casting process..

I've casted alot of items and what works well for me is this..


1. Get a plastic bucket or large flate pan and fill it w/ paint thinner, terpintine etc.

2. submerge your cast pieces into the thinner and allow to sit overnight.

3. The next day..using a soft plastic brisle brush, scrub your pieces thoroughly to help remove the release agent.

4. Rinse w/ warm water and scrub again using a dish detergent, this time to remove the paint thinner and/or left over release agent.

5. Dry off w/a towel and let sit to air dry.

6. Now begin your sanding.

7. Apply a good quality primer coat and allow to dry over night..

NOTE..."This is the moment of truth" !

What I mean is..if there is any residue left over from the release agent it will rise to the surface of the primer coat and be "Tacky or Sticky"...If this occures leave it alone !!

Do not apply your finished coat yet!!

Let it sit for a couple of days and the tacky surface will eventually dry out..

On the other hand.. If you have successfully removed all of the release agent your primer coat will be dry and ready for your finished coat..


This process has worked very well for me..

Hope this helps.
 
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that sounds extremely thorough...

However, since halloween is approx 3 days away and I already have the resin assembled, I need to find a slightly faster way. Maybe If I place them in a terp bath overnight and follow it up with a hot water bath the next day?
 
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I have worked with painting resin props and models for years and I'll I have ever done is just wash them down with good hot soapy water and a tooth brush. That is that is in resin model directions and it has worked for me really well and I have never had a problem.

The bad thing about soaking parts in any type of solvents is that resin is porous and it will/may soak up the solvents and it may come back to haunt you later when/if it leechs out.
 
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It sounds like you are rushing the process, especially with Halloween being aroudn the corner. My advice is like others, but I stress taking your time and letting coats to FULLY DRY before puttign another coat on. I would recommend Pep Boys autobody primer.. I have had nothing but love from that primer. Then WASH your pieces...dry them. Dust coat your primer...don't mind that some areas are not fully coated wait for about five minutes, do it again, catching all the unpainted patches...do it one last time to get it all. Wait until all coats are dry. Go get dinner or something. Then add your first coat (very light). Get a snack or a beer. Watch a show. Then second coat...watch that second episode of 24 or something. Then finally a third.

The problem with rushing a job is that the bottom coats never dry. If those don't adhere, you could take your nail and scratch it right off easy.

hope it helps.
 
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Has anyone done this? I've read on the RPF that this paint is as close to chrome as it comes, but will it be too shiney? I don't want girls trying to use my chest plate to fix their hair at cons... ;)
 
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Alclad II can be found at some, if not most hobby stores and works great for this !! IMO, the alclad alone is a bit too shiney so what I would recommend is a nice clear coat over it which deadens the chrome apprearance!
I race RC Monster Trucks( when I'm not engulfed in FETT stuff) and use this quite often on the ABS plastic bodies I paint as well as the Lexan versions!
If left without a clear coat the alclad is not very durable though is the only thing!!!
It is sweet though to see it before you clear coat it!!
On average it's anywhere from $6.99 to $8.00 an Oz.!!
Good luck, any help I can be , don't hesitate to email.
shunned
 
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Do you have to airbrush it on or do they sell it in a spray can?
 
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They don't offer it in a spray can unfortunately! however you could use a single action airbrush, which you can pick up reasonably priced!!
Other than this there are a few companies that offer "chromish" finishes,but none like the Alclad II!
hope that helps!
shunned
 
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Hey shunned, would you suggest getting the polished aluminum finish, or would something closer to steel work better?
 
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Hi Kronk,
What I would do is use the regular Alclad II Chrome and once you clear coat the Helmet you'll have that polished allumnum appearance!! It sounds weird ,but the Chrome Deadens out some and with the Clear coat on there with the polished allumnum affect, you should achieve what your looking for!!
Good Luck and let me know how it turns out for you!! If I beat you to it, I'll post pics of mine so you can see what the end result is!;)
shunned
 
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Thanks, and you probably will beat me to it. I had heard that the clear coat deadened the chrome finish, but I know they also have the polished aluminum finish and thought that might work better. Let me know how yours turns out!
 
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A real good trick, is to paint your alclad II over SATIN instead of gloss black. It gives it a nice shine, but not too chrome. :)
 
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Ah, I was wondering how a different finish would affect the outcome. Thanks JD.
 
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Kronk,
Just keep in mind that any Alclad II is not chip resistant!! I think either color would probably work out well for ya ,but the clear coat is a must if you are going to handle the helmet at all!! The alluminum finish color might deaden out more than you want it to so I'd test em out!!
I'n fact I'll do a little test tonight with my alclad II and if I can get someone to clue me in to a good pic host, I'll put em up as soon as I can!!(tonight or tomarrow!)
PM me or post back, I'll check in once I get started!!;)
TTYS, shunned
 
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Now you're talking, I was hoping someone would test this out. I can't wait to see the pictures.
 
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OK done!!
I did a side by side comparison on the same piece so you could see the difference between Alclad II Chrome non-clear coated and the other I clear coated!!
Now, to find a good pic host!LOL:)
I'll be back with pic results!!
shunned
 
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