Neo Fett
Active Hunter
I just got in my order for my humbrol colors based on this thread ("Paint by numbers" Humbrol Visual Guide - ESB & ROTJ Helmet & ESB Armor). I am doing ROTJ and wanted to confirm that these look okay.
Humbrol Conformation?
- Thread starter Neo Fett
- Start date
Not a pro with ROTJ but the one thing i DO see that could be an issue is i see 2 acrylics there #11 and #67. If i recall correctly the acrylics and enamels have the same number codes for the colors..which is telling me that the #11 is silver, and acrylic. You CAN NOT put enamels over acrylic...they will never dry fully and remain tacky and it will be a HUGE mess to clean up....trust me lol. I did this on a model car once..ugh what a freakin mess! You cant use acrylics with enamels unless the acrylics are final coats and your not going to need to put any more enamel over them.
Basically .....acrylic over enamel
....Enamel over acrylic
Basically .....acrylic over enamel
....Enamel over acrylic
Neo Fett
Active Hunter
Thanks for the heads up! I was wondering why they had different caps... never thought to ready the jar haha. Guess I'll be putting another order in.Not a pro with ROTJ but the one thing i DO see that could be an issue is i see 2 acrylics there #11 and #67. If i recall correctly the acrylics and enamels have the same number codes for the colors..which is telling me that the #11 is silver, and acrylic. You CAN NOT put enamels over acrylic...they will never dry fully and remain tacky and it will be a HUGE mess to clean up....trust me lol. I did this on a model car once..ugh what a freakin mess! You cant use acrylics with enamels unless the acrylics are final coats and your not going to need to put any more enamel over them.
Basically .....acrylic over enamel
EDIT: Can I mix enamel with spray paint? eg. putting a base layer of this on: Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X 12 oz. Aluminum General Purpose Spray Paint-249128 - The Home Depot
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clmayfield
Active Hunter
I have acrylic sandwiched between two enamels on my helmet. I haven't had issues with it, which is not to say that others won't. The general rule of thumb is Lacquer -> Enamel - Acrylic. But Alclad, a lacquer goes best over an enamel primer, so there are a lot of exceptions to the rule. I have had huge issues with the interaction between enamels and lacquers, but I have found as long as the layers are fully cured and not too thick, those problems go away. YMMV.
However, just because you can doesn't mean you should. I would prefer the enamel version of #11 to the acrylic version. But for my base layer, I usually use Valspar Brilliant Silver. BTW... you need to let that dry for about 2 - 3 weeks before you can handle it. But it is a beautiful consistent layer of silver. Some silvers look like metal specs in light grey paint.
However, just because you can doesn't mean you should. I would prefer the enamel version of #11 to the acrylic version. But for my base layer, I usually use Valspar Brilliant Silver. BTW... you need to let that dry for about 2 - 3 weeks before you can handle it. But it is a beautiful consistent layer of silver. Some silvers look like metal specs in light grey paint.
yep i agree..there are certainly exceptions! After i had that incident on that model car which basically ruined it, i always play the "better safe than sorry card"! Because as you know, these helmets are a lot of stencil/mask work and it would be SO much wasted time (and money) if that reaction was to happen. I have also had issues with the Enamel Lacquer combo as well, but also like you mentioned, with that combo i noticed if the paint was COMPLETELY dry the issue didn't occur. I had the bad luck twice with the enamel acrylic combo so i just avoid it at all costs now!
Grimstuff
Active Hunter
The good ol' paint matrix:
Enamel (oil) over acrylic (water) can work, but as said, you really have to let the acrylic super dry out and fully cure, so all the water is gone. They'll still never quite chemically bond as well as proper matched paints though.
Make sure your enamels-over-enamels cure fully too, as if the basecoat isn't fully cured (usually 24-48 hours brand depending), the solvents in the over-coat will dissolve it. Nothing worse than coming back to check on a paintjob and it's all crackled up and lifted.
Pretty much the golden rule of painting is never rush.
Enamel (oil) over acrylic (water) can work, but as said, you really have to let the acrylic super dry out and fully cure, so all the water is gone. They'll still never quite chemically bond as well as proper matched paints though.
Make sure your enamels-over-enamels cure fully too, as if the basecoat isn't fully cured (usually 24-48 hours brand depending), the solvents in the over-coat will dissolve it. Nothing worse than coming back to check on a paintjob and it's all crackled up and lifted.
Pretty much the golden rule of painting is never rush.
