Goat\'s big MSH adventure: New pics 6/21!!

bobagoat

Well-Known Hunter
Goat's big MSH adventure: New pics 6/21!!

I've had this helmet in my shop since the first run was done way back in 2002. It's been a crazy ride since then but now I finally have a proper workspace.

My painting skills stink. I figured what better way to improve my skills than to tackle this bucket on my own. Plus it gives me an excuse to use my airbrush that has seen very little action since I bought it last year.

I've decided to do a combination topical and reveal technique for the damage points. I've got some liquid mask that I'll use to mask off the big parts and some minor scrapes and scratches. The real detail stuff will be applied topically with make-up sponges.

So far its lookin pretty good. I'm in the process of masking it now which is taking seemingly forever.

Anyway, here's a bunch of pics. They arent too interesting...yet. Its mostly base coat.

http://www.darthgoat.com/images/MSH_build/MSH_build.html

If anyone has any painting tips, I'd love to hear them! Like I said I'm definately a novice painter, but I really want to make this thing great. Any and all criticism is welcome!!!

Thanks to Rogue Studios and Steve the Swede for sharing their knowledge!!! I wouldn't have even begun to tackle this thing without that knowledge.

Update 5/28:

:angry

so pissed! but its not a project unless something goes horribly wrong and you learn something.

so i had the whole thing masked and applied the next base coat which was to be a color by Citadel called Boltgun Metal. its the dirtiest, darkest, metal paint in the universe. its great stuff, and i love it! that went on fine the problem is it wasnt quite dark enough for my tastes.

so i went to Wal Mart and looked for a darker grey paint. found one but it was an automotive primer. i figured it would be ok. i was wrong.

somehow the primer and the boltgun must have reacted because the whole thing crackled up.

so now i'm told that you have to make sure the previous coat is 100% cured. i thought it was because i left it sit for 24 hrs. guess not. :(

here's the damage.

http://www.darthgoat.com/images/MSH_build/DSCN2787.jpg

on the bright side, my pool looks awesome! i was so pissed i cleaned the whole thing!

http://www.darthgoat.com/images/MSH_build/DSCN2788.jpg

BACK TO FORMULA!!!!

Update 06/04:

it turns out the crackling was a good thing. i sanded down the entire helmet, reprimed, and repainted. it turns out that the paint that remained formed a pretty interesting pattern. the helmet really looks like its been beaten to hell and back. i'm pretty excited about it. i could never have created the texture in such a random way.

i'll have some pics when i get home from work.

Update 6/20:

did some more work today. i'm taking my time with it. :D

i applied the floquil dark lark grey to the mandibles and dome. its starting to look like a helmet now.

there are a bunch of pics on the updated adventure page here.

Update 6/20 2:

WOW!!!! i can't believe my eyes. the results are far better than i expected. see for yourself.

http://www.darthgoat.com/images/MSH_build/MSH_build0002.html

Update 6/21:

i can see a light approaching at the end of the tunnel. this thing is really starting to take off. i might have it done this week. the helmet part at least. the ears are next.

http://www.darthgoat.com/images/MSH_build/MSH_build0002.html
 

Bobo

Active Hunter
Always fun to see WIP pics! :)
One point of advice from me would be to pay attention to the seam line from the mold that runs from left to right across the dome mostly. You can't really notice it with just the primer, but with that chrome paint job, you can really see where it is especially in this pic:

http://www.darthgoat.com/images/MSH_build/DSCN2784.jpg

I don't know if you will do this but if it would be me, I'd definitely sand and bondo that sucker up!
But again, that's just me ;) You might not even notice it after you paint the colors on anyways.

Also, in this pic: http://www.darthgoat.com/images/MSH_build/DSCN2783.jpg

The chrome looks nice and shiny on the dome, but on the lower and upper cheeks it seems to be matte. I don't know whether it has anything to do with drying or whether it will affect your final paintjob, but I just noticed that.

Overall, it's looking mighty fine so far. Can't really tell how it will turn out in the end without seeing some color on that bucket tho! ;)

My 2cents,
Bartek
 
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SEEKER

Well-Known Hunter
Cool man. I'm glad you decided to finally work on that. You are the reason I bought my MSH. I fell in love with it when I first saw it at your place.

:D
 
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T Visor

Active Hunter
What is exactly the difference between Bondo and ordinary mastic?

I tried it, but I cannot fill the irregularities of my MH with the putty which I found.

Do I have to use dry or wet sandpaper? When I use the wet one, it ruins the putty work fastly and I have to start again, etc.

Is Bondo a sort of miracle product? :eek:
 
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fettcicle

Well-Known Hunter
Actually Bondo is VERY useful. It can be mixed to set fast, or slow, and it is easier to sand than the fiberglass around it. Depending on how it's mixed (lots of hardener, very red) you can start sanding within 30min of application. Try it, you'll like it :p
 
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bobagoat

Well-Known Hunter
i didnt notice that seam till you pointed it out. thanks!

at this point i think i'll just incorporate that into the paint job as a damage point.

thanks for the kind words and encouragements fellas!

and yes, bondo is the bomb! to fettcicle you listen! plus something he forgot to mention is, its cheap!!! 8 bucks gets you a can that will last a long long time.
 
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PropReplicator

Active Hunter

T-Visor wrote:

What is exactly the difference between Bondo and ordinary mastic?

I tried it, but I cannot fill the irregularities of my MH with the putty which I found.

Do I have to use dry or wet sandpaper? When I use the wet one, it ruins the putty work fastly and I have to start again, etc.

Is Bondo a sort of miracle product? :eek:
Are you using Bondo body filler or Bondo glazing putty? (Does it havea 2-part mix or is it in a squeeze tube that air dries?) There's a big difference. Both can be wet sanded, but with the glazing putty you can't fill large areas or it won't cure properly and makes a big mess when you go to sand it.

Wayne
 
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bobagoat

Well-Known Hunter
the glazing putty is great for filling small scratches though!
 
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T Visor

Active Hunter

PropReplicator wrote:


T-Visor wrote:

What is exactly the difference between Bondo and ordinary mastic?

I tried it, but I cannot fill the irregularities of my MH with the putty which I found.

Do I have to use dry or wet sandpaper? When I use the wet one, it ruins the putty work fastly and I have to start again, etc.

Is Bondo a sort of miracle product? :eek:
Are you using Bondo body filler or Bondo glazing putty? (Does it havea 2-part mix or is it in a squeeze tube that air dries?) There's a big difference. Both can be wet sanded, but with the glazing putty you can't fill large areas or it won't cure properly and makes a big mess when you go to sand it.

Wayne
Nor! I used an ordinary mastic with and without hardener, with wet and dry sandpaper and I wasn’t satisfied with the result. After many weeks of looking, I can say that I’m pretty sure now, that I never will find some Bondo in Europe. It would be interesting to know which is its chemical constitution. Perhaps that I can find an equivalent at my local store, here in France.

Hey guys and girls from Europe, what are you using as a Bondo ersatz?
 
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PropReplicator

Active Hunter
Oh, I thought you meant you'd tried Bondo. Sorry. I'm not sure what's available in Europe for body filling.:(

Wayne
 
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Baddblood

Active Hunter
Bondo's a brand name, maybe you could try looking for a polyester resin mixture at an auto body shop in Europe.
 
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Lynn TXP 0369

Well-Known Hunter
Go to your car parts place and ask for "Auto body filler" They should know what you want or mean.

Great work on the bucket Bobagoat!!

I would not even worry about the seam, once it is painted you'll never even notice it.

Lynn
 
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Rogue Studios

Active Hunter
Yeah don't put enamel based primer on the chrome. Right now if you are planning on doing the gray use an acrylic. :)


Lee
 
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Mr Fett

Well-Known Hunter
Aw man, looks like you gotta sand the whole thing down a bit again, and just NOT use the boltgun metal. RS didn't tell you to use that. ;)

Though, like everyone else said, that's probably the coolest custom scheme I've ever seen!!!!
 
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bobagoat

Well-Known Hunter
:lol:

if that were a custom i'd stop right there!

so ok...here's the question. can you only apply acrylics directly on the chrome? some of the model master paints are enamels. will they work when airbrushed?

seriously this is the exact reason i took on this project. ya gotta make mistakes to learn something and i'm learning a lot.
 
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Jangos kid

Well-Known Hunter
I used all testors paints & airbrush on my bucket, (mostly the ones RS suggests) I'd say about half of them are acrylic, and the other half are enamels. I never had a problem with mine, and sometimes I was really in a hurry, and only allowed an hour drying time between diff. colors. Ie. the cheeks on my bucket are euro gray enamel, after I sprayed that, I waited about an hour and put on POG acrylic w/ an airbrush. My base silver is testors aluminum plate, so I'm not shure about reactions to your chrome. I've had my share of crackle ups useing diff brands of paints too, but I can't ever recall having problems with testors paints crackling up anything, no matter what kind of paint I sprayed it on top of. Too bad about your bucket crackling up like that man:( Hope your have better luck with the next attempt...It was really lookin cool too:)
Damian
 
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patiam69

Active Hunter
i would use the polyester 2 part filler over bondo, bondo is like 70 - 80 % talcum powder and absorbs moisture like a sponge. as for the putty it is a lacquer base so let it air dry and prime and go ,but dont use a lacquer primer as the putty will get soft again, remember that lacquer will redissolve

The proper technique for the bondo would be to rough sand it into shape,maybe a little below the level you are filling in, put on many coats of primer/surfacer then wet sand, you want the primer to be the last build up, if you cut through and expose bondo the dry it and add more primer.

that is your autobody 101 lesson for the day,now this time next year i dont expect you jangos that made helmets from 95 dp's to be posting that your helmet has a dent again or the back of your helmets say :under license from lucas film

good luck
 
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patiam69

Active Hunter
[quote
Are you using Bondo body filler or Bondo glazing putty? (Does it havea 2-part mix or is it in a squeeze tube that air dries?) There's a big difference. Both can be wet sanded,[/quote]

:eek:


put acrylics on top of enamels

BTW that crackle effect was a very popular guitar finish back in the 80's

:p
 
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