Fett Files

[deadland]

awesome job well done when I do my ROTJ lid I will be needing a set.

 

[Evilhemmes]

Wow....not only are you a Sherlock Holmes....but a pretty good craftsman at that! Look forward to getting in on a run of these!

:cheers D

 

[Evilhemmes]

I'll definitely be interested!

Would you be supplying originals, or casts?

man would love to find a big fat cache of these (and 9000 webleys) and would be happy to, but as it stands originals are gonna be like a mq1 clac, glenross rare as rocking-horse poo, the best i can do is rattle these out best i can, ive taken moulds of my number 15 originals and then cast them, from what i have, so yep there is some details that have been picked up, from damage of the files laying around in the pkt ect, they have come out on the casts, some of the 15's that were stamped on the backs have not come out superclean on the originals and you can see the small sprue moulding on the tops around the 15's so the micro-mega manufacturing process wasnt flawless, this is only minute and in some way adds abit of character. i was really taken back with the pinkysil and the easycast at how accurate it was to get all that detail, it is really great stuff. Im still playing and i know you guys are hankering (itching) for some, im just seeing what looks good, what works best, ect and making in all important cost as low as possible and sourceing machining, i have 2 kids so time is a biggie for me, and i dont want to hand out rubbish when the standard is set so high on this abfab website of vendors.


today i put a small recess in the bottom of the nub and phaser (Hybrid) welded, springhardned stainless wire to the bottom of nub end as to replicate the file end which i think was possibly used to heat and push place the files into the silicon of the mq1 half/backing plate, this sounds barbaric and rough as guts but to attain that slight tweak of the nubs on the helmet i thought with F4R's help that this could be a go'er, i was thinking screw or bolt but there would be no abilty to left or right tweak as to how to how you would want them set, i also then used an high heat silver solder to strengthen the weld over the top, so im hoping they should be strong enough for a tweak here or there, but as any metal work hardening will only break over time, and have left them unpainted as i know some have preference and would love to see if the other guys have different colours on offer for the red closer than what i have.
cheers


this is the length of wire added, i thought this was more than enough as the board + the backing plate + allow that half a mil that is stands off the board i only think this as there looks to be a shadow cast againts S1P's pics, collage and gallery pics and enought to give you some play wether you decide to crimp it and glue on the other end ect, but this is why im testing.

hey i reckon get some ear stud backings and we can all have the wives, girlfreinds, partners, husbands a set or pair of earings, might improve the reception
as to what these are suppose to be referred as, im thinking maybe small antenna so all of fetts equipment can talk to eachother ect

 

[Fett 4 Real]

I was thinking about trying some of the andonized paint they sell at auto parts stores...maybe give that a go over silver?

 

[Mike M.]

could you mold it with about an inch and a half length of solid wire, maybe an 18 or 20 guage. that way it would be long enough to be set in the nub and there's plenty to work with when attaching it to the helmet.

 

[Fett 4 Real]

Thats what he did after with the phaser weld

 

[Evilhemmes]

I was thinking about trying some of the andonized paint they sell at auto parts stores...maybe give that a go over silver?

yeah mate for sure, i was thinking this too but my model shop didnt have anything and the guy behind the counter, said the ones i had would go straight over the silver, No undercoat needed as i try to expalin i wanted to retain that polished look through the paint, i was looking online and saw this colour chart, im sure you guys over there will have more to choose from, the real files when you look at them even though they are the same files they appear different in colour 1 is darker then the rest, i guess the fading over time, when they are sterilized they loose there paint over time back to the raw metal.

YouTube - CHROME COLOR 2

check out the red on that bust, what brand VHT or Duplicolor - Metalcast Anodized Color Paint something like that

Amazon.com: Duplicolor - Metalcast Anodized Color Paint, Yellow, 11 oz. can (MC202): Automotive

 

[Fett 4 Real]

The metal cast was exactly what I was talking about!

 

[stormtrooperguy]

while i'd love originals some day to go with my mq1 and other found parts, resin casts are 100% better than the nothing i have now! thanks so much for the effort on this!

 

[BGHunter]

Well i was stoked to come home the other day and find a package from Evil E ,and in it were 2 metal nubs along with another little gem ,
All i can say is THESE ARE 100% ACURATE , if you get to hold one of these youl be shoked at how good they are ,and i hope he decides to make copys of these becouse they are amazing id seriously pay $50 for a set the casting methods he uses are proffesional dental tec methods , they are so good , that i now am ampt to put them on my GMH along with an acruate borden and some metal ears, and a real micro switch (found a great supplyer, and 2 are in the post) ,And a real MQ1 board (not to mention the interior workings
I could seriously blow my horn about these for pages but i wont, I seriouslly hope E desides to do a run becouse they will be the perfect finishing peice for a PP2, rotj or sandy style helmets

 

[Fett 4 Real]

Im more excited now

 

[Art Andrews]

Been mucking around for the last few weeks playing with silicons, acrylics and resins, anyways made some moulds (pinkysil, great product by the way, silicon at work was way too light) of the red no 15 reamers (helmet Nub) and have cast some in easycast resin (another great product, picked up every detail)i then sprued them to a job at work and cast them up, got 10 out of the 12 that i was happy with.

Castings are coming out really nicely! I wonder if it might not be a good idea to try to cast a small screw into these so they could be bolted on to the helmet.

 

[Fett 4 Real]

Art he was looking at putting wire into it to afix them to the MQ1

 

[stormtrooperguy]

I think a bolt might make them be in too perfectly. I know it's probably just from having gotten beaten up over the years, but the shots where you can see them, they are crooked and uneven. The wire would lend itself nicely to that.

 

[Art Andrews]

Art he was looking at putting wire into it to afix them to the MQ1

But... they don't attach to the MQ-1...

 

[BGHunter]

They come with ,like half the file still cast on to them all i did was heat the end up and pushed it through the plastic, and once i have a helmet worthy of these, ill do the same and then bend the end thats stiks out the other side down to holdem solid,
on that subject is there any pics of the pre pro2 interior in its early stages, before the interior was pulle out ? i really need one,
or at least is it know if it had the same workings as, say the esb helmet , (Is the ESB lid the only one we have pics of the compleate interior?
And yeah only the top half of the slots actually has the MQ1 behind them the lower side seams to have ,visor perspex behind them

Actually i dont know what he'll be doing for the resin ones but a bit of wire would work well,
I think they are a bit to small to but a screw in there and for it to be workable,
if he does make these avalible in metal like the ones i and a few other lucky people got from him, they will be worth what ever he decides to sell them as , trully one of the best castings ive ever seen

 

[Evilhemmes]

was actually going to put a cut the bolt tip off and phaser weld it to the back half of the nub, i bought small bolts for this, but not being able to tweak the nubs as shown in S1P's collage and ref pics, Art im curious as to how these are attached if you could shed light, it looks as if the nub sits on the mq1/BP, looking at S1P's top pic on his thread u can see the transistor at the top of vent so this is half of the mq1-backing plate (i did say backing plate, what ever it is in the above posts).
just some pics i was using for reference
Heilman Helmet_05,

RotJ_HD_078

 

[Evilhemmes]

Well i was stoked to come home the other day and find a package from Evil E ,and in it were 2 metal nubs along with another little gem ,
All i can say is THESE ARE 100% ACURATE , if you get to hold one of these youl be shoked at how good they are ,and i hope he decides to make copys of these becouse they are amazing id seriously pay $50 for a set the casting methods he uses are proffesional dental tec methods , they are so good , that i now am ampt to put them on my GMH along with an acruate borden and some metal ears, and a real micro switch (found a great supplyer, and 2 are in the post) ,And a real MQ1 board (not to mention the interior workings
I could seriously blow my horn about these for pages but i wont, I seriouslly hope E desides to do a run becouse they will be the perfect finishing peice for a PP2, rotj or sandy style helmetsView attachment 50885View attachment 50884

cheers mate dunno about that much, all though there is a bit of work in these, but its all about the community, i have all intentions off running these, just see what some of the other champions here have to say. the good thing about having casts over machined is that its a non sterile, you will actually have a cast of what i have, the right amount of parallel finger grips, the 15 the way it stamped on my originals, and the diameter, as the files increment is size as they go up, some small blemishes are inherited all thats missing is the paint but that is something i will persist with to test as discussed above. obviously with machining i would endeavour to take the originals to the manufaturer for 3d cad machining/lasercutting? to have them as close to possible ect.

while i'd love originals some day to go with my mq1 and other found parts, resin casts are 100% better than the nothing i have now! thanks so much for the effort on this!

I think a bolt might make them be in too perfectly. I know it's probably just from having gotten beaten up over the years, but the shots where you can see them, they are crooked and uneven. The wire would lend itself nicely to that.

thanks STG so far i only plan to do 2 versions metal as passed on to the other guys to trial and test and resin. 8mm stainless springhardned with a small loop for rentetion for the pure resin dipped as it sets, and so far as mentioned the stainless 8mm welded on the back of the CoCr castings, the other option was to maybe thread the casting sprue. i think the wire is the way to go as cheap as it sounds i reckon they would have heated the end pushed it through then either cut it or crimped,then glued or i dont think the file could have screwed in using the cutting part of it as its just to fine this number file the larger sizes the 70 and 90's sizes there would be no problem there, hoping Art can shed light here.

The metal cast was exactly what I was talking about!

should be hitting you soon, posted last friday

 

[Fett 4 Real]

Im excited man spoke with Art on this yesterday and as far as I can tell from pics of inside the helmet the MQ1 does NOT hold the files but a seperate peice of plastic, the MQ1 is cut in half and where the files are is a piece of plastic not the MQ1 bottom half as it resides in the gauntlet with the keypad.

Also I spoke with Nathan and I just from the pics and jinto your gonna have to make ALOT of these. I know Im gonna want more for sure

 

[Fett 4 Real]

I deffinately NEED one for my jetpack now too, more detective work has led me to see this for the first time on the ROTJ pack...

Been broken off here