Blaster ESB EE-3 Sling- Tutorial

KenChan

Active Hunter
Hey guys, as promised here is a picture tutorial on how I did the ESB EE-3 Sling on my foundparts build to look as it appears on the screen
For this method, I highly recommend softening the leather sling first using Neatsfoot oil so that you're able to get the rear knot tighter as well as give the sling its natural fluid movement like seen in the film. Just keep in mind that Neatsfoot oil will darken the sling a lot, so preferably start with either a Light Brown predyed sling or a undyed natural leather one to then dye after treating with the oil. You can find this product at most Co-op stores (probably cheaper) or Tandy Leather locations
Neatsfoot Oil Treatment
There's a few ways to go about this, but I'd recommend just letting the sling soak overnight in a container. Once that's done, remove the sling and wipe off what excess oil you can. The sling will be a little softer than before, but still not quite soft enough for our needs. So now what you'll need to do is basically beat the ever living hell out of your sling. Fold it, roll it, twist it working down the length inch by inch as you go.. More or less what you're trying to do here is open up the fibers in the leather for the oil to further work in. As you do this the sling will become a lot softer and more manageable. Now wipe the whole thing down once more with some paper towels dipped in Neatsfoot oil, and then clean it off again and get what oil you can out. The remaining oil trapped in the fibers will continue to work over the next few days and weeks to further soften the leather.
On to the Tutorial
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Making the sling
1) Starting at the front of the sling, make two perpendicular "V" shaped cuts about 1/4" deep on each side of the sling about 1 1/4" from the end of the sling
2) Next make a slit in the center of the sling starting about 4 1/2" inches back from the end, long enough to be just shy of the full width of the sling. (For mine it was at the 5 1/4 mark)
rsz_img_e4715.jpg

3) Now, moving to the back end of the sling, make a single slit in the center starting about 1 1/4" from the end, and long enough for the full width of your sling to pass through.
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Tying the Sling
4) Feed the full length of the sling through the back ring with the fleshy side facing out towards you, making sure the sling follows the inside contour of the ring, stopping at the start of the slit you cut at the end
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5) Now pass the front of the sling down through the slit and pull until taught. This will lock the end portion of the sling on. Tighten the knot as necessary
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6) Now, moving to the front ring, pass the front of the sling through the front of the ring going towards the end of the stock, again making sure its going with the inside contour of the ring. Stop about half way between the "V" cuts and the slit cut further back
rsz_img_e4723.jpg

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7) Now fold the tabs at the "V" cut over and pass through the small slit you cut, the tabs will then unfold and essentially "lock" itself on. Pull taught making sure it's secure,
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And you're finished! :)
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Fettastic

Active Hunter
Thanks for posting this in response to my inquiry. I did this exactly and it works well. I am contemplating installing 2 very small rivets in the front just to be safe. We'll see how I feel after a troop.
 

KenChan

Active Hunter
No problem guys! Always glad to help

Thanks for posting this in response to my inquiry. I did this exactly and it works well. I am contemplating installing 2 very small rivets in the front just to be safe. We'll see how I feel after a troop.
It should be pretty reliable as is, especially if you have a casting for your blaster. My Webley with everything on it weighs something close to 11+lbs and it takes the full weight being slung over the shoulder no problem what so ever hahaha
 

KenChan

Active Hunter
I THINK the width of strap I use is 3/4” (19mm), but im not 100% sure on that one
I know its 4/5oz leather that I use for the thickness
As for the length, thats kinda still up in the air. I keep playing around with it and even this new sling I made for the tutorial I feel might be just a touch too long compared to the film one. But roughy the length of the blaster is what Id reccomend shooting for give or take an inch or so
 

Funkyred

Hunter
I THINK the width of strap I use is 3/4” (19mm), but im not 100% sure on that one
I know its 4/5oz leather that I use for the thickness
As for the length, thats kinda still up in the air. I keep playing around with it and even this new sling I made for the tutorial I feel might be just a touch too long compared to the film one. But roughy the length of the blaster is what Id reccomend shooting for give or take an inch or so
Awesome mate , thanks
 

Art Andrews

Community Founder
Community Staff
Here is a hi-res image of my strap.

Boba Fett - EE-3 Strap.jpg

HUGE thanks to KenChan on this tutorial. I took his advice but made a few very slight mods to his approach.

I purchased the same type of leather from AMAZON; 4oz (1/16"thick), 3/4" wide leather straps at 72" (enough to make two in case I messed one up).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QVS54G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After studying the photos as carefully as I could and doing some scaled measurements (these were far from precise, but gave me a starting point), I cut my strap to 30.5." Let me just say right away, this is going to seem obscenely short. While I am not saying I am dead-on in regard to length, that is in the ballpark. Fett's strap is short... it isn't like he uses it...

I followed Ken's guide and cut the back slit starting 1 1/4" from the end and 3/4" long.

On the front, I deviated just a bit. I don't feel like the tail at the front is as long as the one on the back. I cut the two notches at 1" (as opposed to 1 1/4") and I only cut two small slits, not actual V shaped notches. I also cut them at 3/16" instead of 1/4".

I cut the pass-through slit starting at 4 1/2" and initially cut it 1/2" long. However, folding up the leather and trying to pass it through didn't work, so I had to widen the slit to 5/8."

I used Red Wing Shoes - All Natural Boot Oil to soften/darken the leather and then folded into quarters and twisted it into knots are hard as I could for about 10 minutes. This process increased the overall length by 1."

Here is the leather, before and after oiling:

Boba Fett - EE-3 Strap WIP.jpg

Overall I am pretty happy, although I believe my strap is still a bit too long when compared to the original (I was not anticipating the stretch from the oil). I may try this again with about 3 fewer inches.

Boba Fett - EE-3 Strap Compare.jpg
 
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Art Andrews

Community Founder
Community Staff
Round #2:

Again, I followed KenChan's tutorial pretty closely, but did the following:


I cut my strap to 28" this time, 2.5" shorter than the last time.

I cut the back slit starting 1 1/2" from the end (Ken recommends 1 1/4") and 3/4" long.

On the front, I cut the two notches at 1" (as opposed to Ken's 1 1/4") and I only cut two small slits, not actual V shaped notches. I also cut them at 3/16" instead of 1/4".

I cut the pass-through slit starting at 4 1/2" and initially cut it 1/2" long. However, folding up the leather and trying to pass it through didn't work, so I had to widen the slit to 5/8."

On the first attempt, I really laid the oil on this... so thick that I feel like it might be a little dark. Not much... and it will dry some, but still. I had applied it with a brush. This time, I put the oil on a napkin and very lightly hit the leather, only making it slightly darker. Sadly, this also means it doesn't look quite as weathered and beaten, but I'll just have to live with that.

Boba Fett - EE-3 Strap WIP 2.jpg

Overall, I think this is much closer... although I still think the front tab MIGHT be a bit shorter and the back tab MIGHT be a bit longer. Still... not bad.

Boba Fett - EE-3 Strap Compare 2.jpg
 
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