I have to say - this is my first real build so Im learning about resin/fiberglassing - filler - everything. My point is this is REALLY fun and the encouragement here is FANTASTIC - really keeps me pushing on Thanks so much :cheers
Also - I hope you dont mind me posting these in your thread Skip? But as a plus - Im having so much fun I recommend EVERYONE pick up Skips templates!
So I did some outside strengthening with resin before taking on the inside glassing (which Im scared of but hey!) - decided to do it in parts as Im not used to resin so the first part (top took ages to dry as Id not used enough hardener) - from then on the resin hardened quick so these pics are just before the second coat -
This really added strength and the helmet MUCH easier to work on with a thin film of resin. Thing is the resin dries shiny? Is this normal?
So Im giving it one last coat of resin outside then on to fiberglassing the inside!!!
Dave, it's looking swell bro! Oh, the resin will set shiny. At least it has for me on all of my builds. Don't be worried about the fibreglassing. I was for my first go too but it really isn't that bad. The hardest part is in the small areas, plan ahead before you start. Some areas will require the fibreglass to be cut to shape before you try to apply it.
It is good fun though, I found it really rewarding to see the helmet take shape before my eyes. I'm hoping to 'glass my Mando lid today and can't wait.
This thread is really useful, I'm planning on getting a number of Skip's templates in the not to distant future and as I've no experience with anything like this it's useful to see how' it's done.
Thanks mckenic for posting your progress, I'd be interested if you have any updates?
Thanks for the kind words!!! Ive just started my Masters Degree so time is getting VERY tight here
I do have an older update though but not a good one! This was my first build and as you can see the template construction seemed to go without a hitch. I rushed the fiberglassing stage and got air trapped between the fiber and strengthened paper - air bubbles... went on to bondo without checking (always in a hurry) and as it was also my first go at bondo I put too much on - I found it difficult to control so just lathered it on! So now I have half a solid helmet and half a squidgy mess... I dont know if its rescuable so Im back to the start...
I'll take some pictures this afternoon and perhaps someone might have a few ideas...
Im hoping it might be of help to someone else!
In the meantime I started again but Im doing the upper and lower sections in 2 parts. The intention is to glue the fiberglass to these 2 sections and ensure everything is straight BEFORE resining Most importantly, I think I just went too fast with each stage!
Sorry for the lack of updates, Im still really excited with this and happy to post my mistakes. Perhaps what I think is a disaster might not be so bad...
Do you have a mouse sander? If you've used too much filler for the outer layer don't panic!
I did that on my first attempt at this sort of thing. Just sand it right back, you'll start to see the card underneath and that's when you stop. Try to follow the card underneath to sand it to the shape it should be. Fortunately Boushh is a pretty simple lid to sand back and you should be fine.
If you do decide to start over though, you just need to skim the surface with the filler. When you're sanding, card will start to show through and again stop there. Then build up a second layer to smooth it further, filling any dips or recesses from the first layer. That's how I did my custom Mando lid and it worked great! Too little is easier to work with than too much.
As for the air bubbles. That's an easy fix. Do you have a Dremmel or similar mini tool? Use the sanding bit, it looks like a drum/cylinder. Use that to sand through the fibreglass and to break through the bubble. Sand it smooth so that there's a patch of card that is no longer covered with fibreglass. Than once you've got rid of all the bubbles, re-fibreglass those areas, taking more time and care to avoid new bubbles. I also use generous ammounts of resin in these tight awkward corners so that the excess resin kinda forms into pools and fills up those recess areas. It prevents bubbles should the fibreglass itself not stay in position(which can happen if you've not trimmed the fibreglass into reqired shape. Remember, the inside of you lid doesn't HAVE to be pretty. So long as it's doing it's job. Unless you plan to decorate the inside too. In that case you need to take care fibreglassing to get the best finish. Cutting fibreglass to shape to fit properly into tight areas. I also use wodden cocktail sticks ur wodden BBQ skewers to press the FG into position in those pesky tight areas.
Small air bubbles aren't the end of the world but the big ones can cause problems.
Thanks for the ideas! I do indeed have a mouse(ish) sander and looking over your post - things might not be as bad as I think... Ive attached pics below to explain my problems... hope this is ok with everyone?
Also PLEASE NOTE - these issues are with the fact this is my very very first full build and nothing to knock about the excellent templates!
OK so on with the state of the union: I gave this a quick coat of grey primer to make things a bit more uniform...
Firstly a general look - I think my issues arise from the fact that I put the complete template together, forgetting about the closed off areas that need fiberglassig BEFORE being attached to the helmet:
Secondly - the circled areas are parts where the air bubbles/unset fiberglass is causing warping. The arrow is to the area I'll have to remove as the top visor and 'snout' have no glassing support inside at all:
You might notice the colour change at the back of the neck... I started with Fiberglass cloth (darker) and changed to Fiberglass cotton - its easier to work with but I feel it caused some of the problems Im having with trapped air...
Third - The ear will have to come off as above, there is no support! Doh! The back of the head, has air bubbles so moves to the touch:
Fourth - Just a top view. Im not sure if it came out in the pic but as Skip said Some areas are down to almost the bare card - I think this top part is ok?
Next is just a back view. One side of the upper part is bondoed the one without the arrow has none. You might be able to see the arrow area is lower (and correct) while the opposite side is higher as it warped without fiberglass support:
On to - Other side. The unbondoed area needs Fiberglass reinforcing and the ear has to come off:
And finally, all the issues together. Working from the top - The top 'visor' part has no glass underneath so I might just remove that and re-do it. The actual area you look out is fine, just needs bondo. The unbondo'd side should be fine with more FG. Might just cut off the entire front as its just paper and the bottom rim parts should be ok to straighten with careful FG work...
I thought I'd add a note for the construction of the Boushh lid. Just the way I envisioned it when I designed the model and templates.
Build the main helmet all as one piece, then you'll be left with things like the ears, snout pieces and sensor that sits above the visor.
Build these parts and glue them into position on the main lid.
Now you'll have hollow areas inside these parts that you won't be able to access when fibreglassing. Not to worry, I encountered this problem when building my custom gauntlets. You need to carefully mark out where these pieces are on the inside of the lid. So you'll have a pencil outline showing you where to cut. The card should be thin enough to allow light to pass through and give you a general idea of where to mark these areas out.
Using a sharp, fresh blade on your knife, gently cut out the un-needed card from the main helmet where you marked out earlier.
If you've taken your time and got it right, you'll now have access to the pieces(ears, sensor above visor, and snout) when you come to fibreglass. Any excess card remaining can carefully be trimmed away first.
Anyone who's tried to build be Pepakura Fett gauntlets will have encountered this when building them and may have come up with this solution themselves or an alternative.
As I said, this is what I did for me Custom Gauntlets and it worked a treat. Providing you use plenty of glue to secure the parts and wait long enough for the to dry fully and set.
I know this may come a little late for some - Sorry McKenic - but I hope that it will prove useful for fixes or new builders.
McKenic, I think your lid can be fixed buddy. Too much filler is a pain but not the end of the world mate. You know how to reach me if I can help more.