Template Sizing Tutorial

superjedi

Sr Hunter
Hi all!
I've had several people ask me on numerous occasions how I size my templates when I'm doing a helmet paint up.
I thought I'd put this post together to show how I do it. Disclaimer: this is just the method that works best for me.
I encourage everyone to play around with their graphics program and see what it can do! :)

First off, RafalFett has put in a tremendous amount of time creating templates for just about every version of the
helmet that exists. His work is fantastic! Using his templates can be an enormous time saver in getting the shapes
and positions of the damage areas to look good. You can find his templates in this thread:
All Boba Fett Helmet Stencils and Templates

My first step is to take some tracing paper and make a blank template for the area I'm working on. In this example
I'm making a new template for the left inner cheek on an FPH2 helmet. I actually lay the tracing paper onto the
helmet and mark it to match the cheek's curve, then cut it out with scissors. (This may take a couple of tries.)
Here's the template I cut out.

IMG_1981.JPG

When it's placed onto the left cheek, it fits right in.

IMG_1980.JPG

Next, I'll bring up RafalFett's template in my graphics program. I use PaintShop Pro, so your controls and menus may
look different than what I'm showing here. When I have the template on screen, I size it so that the bottom (straight) edge
of the cheek matches the size of the tracing paper template I made. In this case, I sized the template to 63%.

IMG_1982.JPG

Well that doesn't look right at all! The width matches, but the height is off. This is where I begin to make adjustments
to get RafalFett's template to fit the "actual" template I made. To do this, I begin with the IMAGE menu, then select RESIZE.

IMG_1984.JPG

When the RESIZE window pops up, I make sure that I deselect the LOCK ASPECT RATIO button. In my program, this button is
"checked" by default as shown below.

IMG_1986.JPG

Deselecting this function allows you to alter the height and width of the image independently. Since I've used my tracing paper template
to get the image to the correct width, I only want to adjust the height. Below, I have "unchecked" LOCK ASPECT RATIO.

IMG_1987.JPG

From this point, it's simply a matter of trial and error to get RafalFett's template to the proper size. In this next pic, I have left the
width at 100%, but changed the height to 95%.

IMG_1988.JPG

Now let's see how things look.

IMG_1989.JPG

Better! But we're still not quite there. I continue to mess around with the height percentage until I decide that 90% looks the best.

IMG_1990.JPG

There we go! :) NOTE: You simply will not get every point along the curve to match up. You can get it really close, but it will
not be perfect. Don't think you're doing something wrong if every single pixel along the curve doesn't align! If you have a more
advanced graphics program with "warp" controls, you might be able to pull certain parts of the image so that the curve does
align, but then you risk deforming the shapes and the spacing of the damage areas.

Now that I have RafalFett's template sized to match my tracing paper template, I just trace the outlines of the damage areas.
I don't worry about capturing every single tiny detail. I get the basic shapes, and when I transfer the template onto the helmet,
I have one or two good clear reference pics up on screen to allow me to do all the finer details. Here's what the finished template
looks like.

IMG_1991.JPG

To transfer the template onto the helmet, I just flip the tracing paper over and carefully re-trace the damage areas, making a
mirror image. I hold the template in position on the helmet, and use the back of of a small paintbrush to rub the pencil lines
onto the surface.

I know this might seem old school, or like I'm going through a lot of effort to do this, but as I mentioned, this is the method that
works best for me, and I'm pretty pleased with the results it gives me.

If you have any questions/comments/gripes/suggestions, please let me know! :) (y)
Thanks for reading.









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IMG_1981.JPG


IMG_1982.JPG


IMG_1984.JPG


IMG_1986.JPG


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IMG_1989.JPG


IMG_1990.JPG


IMG_1991.JPG


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Last edited by a moderator:
As many have said before, thanks again for this thread. This will help A LOT when it comes around to painting my lid lol.
 
I can't believe I've been around TDH long enough to see you re-do this thread. I miss the old one! The clever wit, the playful banter. Ah, the days of yore...
 
Hey Superjedi,
That's a great tutorial! But if i may, before tracing any outlines on your carbon paper you could use the computer to "horizontally flip" the template. This way you won't need to trace twice the same outlines (gain of time!) and it will reduce the risk of slightly deforming the damage areas.

Also, what kind of pencil do you use ? A classic graphite pencil? And if so, what do you use to wipe the markings from the helmet once done?
 
I'm having an issue with this method, I'm using Paintshop Pro X8, and even at 100% the template is freakin' tiny and I can't seem to adjust it so it's more of a real... paper size.
 
I'm having an issue with this method, I'm using Paintshop Pro X8, and even at 100% the template is freakin' tiny and I can't seem to adjust it so it's more of a real... paper size.

Did you tried the Fit to page option? In my case if I use his option (on Paint Shop Pro 7), the scale window shows 192%, so use this as your starting point.
 
Hey Superjedi,
That's a great tutorial! But if i may, before tracing any outlines on your carbon paper you could use the computer to "horizontally flip" the template. This way you won't need to trace twice the same outlines (gain of time!) and it will reduce the risk of slightly deforming the damage areas.

Also, what kind of pencil do you use ? A classic graphite pencil? And if so, what do you use to wipe the markings from the helmet once done?

Oops, sorry I missed this when you posted! I trace it twice because it allows me to clearly see where the lines are. I just make sure I'm careful
when I flip the tracing paper over to do the mirror image. Like I mentioned, I don't worry about getting every tiny detail. I just want the main features
of the damage areas transferred to the helmet. I use the reference pics while I'm painting to capture all the small chips and irregularities.

I use a .7 mm mechanical pencil for my templates. I don't worry about cleaning any small traces of the lines after I'm done. I always give my
helmets a couple of light coats of Testors dull coat at the end of the project, and it seems to "eat" any remaining traces of pencil marks.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm having an issue with this method, I'm using Paintshop Pro X8, and even at 100% the template is freakin' tiny and I can't seem to adjust it so it's more of a real... paper size.

Hi catbread. Not sure why you'd be having this issue. . . maybe there was a problem when you first downloaded the templates?
 
Hi catbread. Not sure why you'd be having this issue. . . maybe there was a problem when you first downloaded the templates?

I don't think so, I redownloaded them just in case. They print fine, it's just opening them in x8 where I can't view them in their actual printed size.uploadfromtaptalk1449585604432.jpg
 
I just looked at the ones I have saved. When I set the on-screen size to 100% they're fairly big. Bigger than they need to be when
scaled to the various sections of the helmet. I never print mine though. I set them to the size they need to be to match the section
of the helmet, then trace them while they're on my screen.
 
I just looked at the ones I have saved. When I set the on-screen size to 100% they're fairly big. Bigger than they need to be when
scaled to the various sections of the helmet. I never print mine though. I set them to the size they need to be to match the section
of the helmet, then trace them while they're on my screen.
Guess I just need to use a different program then, thanks!

So far I've been getting on just fine with downsizing the templates to 95% when printing.
 
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