Yet another Jango build by Jawatrooper

Jawatrooper

New Hunter
just dipping in acetone is not enough. You really have to brush it a couple of times with acetone to make sure that the outer perimeter becomes watery ( but with the powder on it). Main problem is that the acetone dries very quick. I guess if i sand a little more with higher grid it would be also better result. Something positive is that if you sand through the aluminum layer you can simply reapply the acetone and powder and its fixed. I have also orderes some finer powder with less than 5microns. Currently I use powder with less than 65micron (230 mesh).
Would be interesting if someone could do also so a test with this.
 

hvacdon

Active Hunter
Yeah,you would think that the finer powder would adhere better and finer grit sand paper should do more polishing than removal of the aluminium!
Good thinking!
 

Kdogg211187

Hunter
Well the process of cold cast requires mixing the aluminum powder with the liquid resin and then pouring it into the mold where it hardens. Would combining the aluminum powder and say something like XTC-3D or some clear resin then applying a thin coating to the print work? Once the coating hardens, could you take some fine steel wool or high grit sand paper and expose that aluminum grain? I dont know just spit-balling here.
 

Jawatrooper

New Hunter
Mixing aluminum powder with something like XTC 3D was my initial plan. In my case I use meanwhile some epoxy that is used as Top coat for boats etc. This was recommended by the epoxy manufacturer.
My trials to bring the aluminum to the surface with acetone happend by accident and now I am doing some research to check if it can be like cold cast.
 

Jawatrooper

New Hunter
So here is one more picture after sanding with 1000 grid and buffing.
E6A629F8-D12B-4305-9399-B1AA602BA3B6.jpeg
 
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