Visor installation?

hey guys, ive installed nearly 50 visors in the buckets that i have sold. I only use hot glue and it takes me less than an hour to do so. If at some point you have to replace the lens/visor just use a heat gun to heat the glue and it will just peal away....very simple and easy!! im working on a you-tube video on how to. give me a shout and i will be happy to walk you through the process
 
hey guys, ive installed nearly 50 visors in the buckets that i have sold. I only use hot glue and it takes me less than an hour to do so. If at some point you have to replace the lens/visor just use a heat gun to heat the glue and it will just peal away....very simple and easy!! im working on a you-tube video on how to. give me a shout and i will be happy to walk you through the process

Do you have a link to your YOUTUBE video yet?
 
All I can say... Hot glue is not working out for me with the Chicago screws.

Works great visor to bucket. "Spot glued" (like a spot weld) to hold in place while the Chicago screws set. The screws ended up coming loose while the spot glue points held. Go figure. So, gonna use an apoxy instead. A little stronger I'm hoping.

Reason for the intent on the Chicago screws is that I'm putting two visors on for the install. Both with a lower tint. Stacked they will be nice and dark. But the easy removal and split visors will allow me to have a solid tint for day, then if night hits and I'm still out, I can quickly remove one lense and have proper tint for low light.


Sent from my iPhone
 
smoke tinted acrylic # 2074 is the tint number they use i highly recomend it
All I can say... Hot glue is not working out for me with the Chicago screws.

Works great visor to bucket. "Spot glued" (like a spot weld) to hold in place while the Chicago screws set. The screws ended up coming loose while the spot glue points held. Go figure. So, gonna use an apoxy instead. A little stronger I'm hoping.

Reason for the intent on the Chicago screws is that I'm putting two visors on for the install. Both with a lower tint. Stacked they will be nice and dark. But the easy removal and split visors will allow me to have a solid tint for day, then if night hits and I'm still out, I can quickly remove one lense and have proper tint for low light.


Sent from my iPhone

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as far as the hot glue not sticking it may be because the surface was not roughed up....hot glue does not like smooth plastic
 
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.# 2074 great tinted acrylic comes in many different sizes
Greetings Fellow Mercs!

I am wondering what everyone uses for their visors? I used a piece of transparency and then just put window tint over it, but it is very hard to see out of. Where would one get better quality plastic and different colors?
 
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popdisplays on ebay has great smoke tinted acrylic # 2074 is the tint number they use i highly recomend it

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as far as the hot glue not sticking it may be because the surface was not roughed up....hot glue does not like smooth plastic

Too true. I gave it a good sanding with a low grit but I think the pressure of the lense with its current stiffness attributed mostly to it popping the screw. One sxrew held though. So it may just be the the interior on that side.
 
i use 80 grit or lower to give a rough surface.. and yep on the stiff lens popping up ! i usually hit the lens with the heat gun just before gluing it helps relax the lens and take some of the spring out
Too true. I gave it a good sanding with a low grit but I think the pressure of the lense with its current stiffness attributed mostly to it popping the screw. One sxrew held though. So it may just be the the interior on that side.
 
Why do people use the method of bolting in the helmet as opposed to just epoxying the visor directly, it seems more complicated with more work
 
Because you replace the visor so often.... Honestly hot glue works really well and is semi easily removable.....and more strength added to the helmet
 
I looked online and found some information:
ACRYLITE GP acrylic sheet should be heated to between 340° and 380°F (171° and 193°C).
ACRYLITE FF acrylic sheet should be heated to between 290° and 320°F (145° and 160°C).





That's pretty hot. Hot water wasn't mentioned in the instructions I found as a bending method.

Also:
Never heat ACRYLITE acrylic sheet in a kitchen oven. Acrylic sheet gives off highly flammable fumes when decomposed by overheating. These gases are potentially explosive if allowed to collect in an unventilated area.
Most kitchens ovens do not have accurate tem- perature control. Temperatures can be off as much as 75° (42°C), possibly allowing the acrylic to overheat.
And because air is not forcibly circulated in a standard kitchen oven, the fumes will accumulate. When they come into contact with the heat source, there is likely to be an explosion. Repeat: Do not heat acrylic in a kitchen oven.
 
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I looked online and found some information:
ACRYLITE GP acrylic sheet should be heated to between 340° and 380°F (171° and 193°C).
ACRYLITE FF acrylic sheet should be heated to between 290° and 320°F (145° and 160°C).





That's pretty hot. Hot water wasn't mentioned in the instructions I found as a bending method.

Also:
Never heat ACRYLITE acrylic sheet in a kitchen oven. Acrylic sheet gives off highly flammable fumes when decomposed by overheating. These gases are potentially explosive if allowed to collect in an unventilated area.
Most kitchens ovens do not have accurate tem- perature control. Temperatures can be off as much as 75° (42°C), possibly allowing the acrylic to overheat.
And because air is not forcibly circulated in a standard kitchen oven, the fumes will accumulate. When they come into contact with the heat source, there is likely to be an explosion. Repeat: Do not heat acrylic in a kitchen oven.

Hey thanks for the info/help. Yea in no way was i gonna put it IN the oven. I knew about the fumes. Not the explosion risk lol.
 
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