Three simple questions about my armor

zemzero

Hunter
1. I am 99.9% sure this armor is ESB specific, correct? I must have bought this years ago and didn't specify I wanted RoTJ. Even so, I'll use it to practice painting and weathering on in the correct ESB paint up. Is the black line I drew on the back plate accurate for trimming? I can't find any sources but I will line it up with the collar piece, just wondering about the curves.

frontarmor.jpg
backplate.jpg

2. The chest display slots. I've seen different templates being posted around here but I can't find measurements for where they should be or how large. Does it matter or can I eyeball it? Just slap a template on and go for it?

3. The helmet. This is Asok's cold cast budget FP helmet and dear lord, I feel I know less about all the helmets now than I did before. Since the helmets structure is all the same, I can paint this either ESB or RoTJ, correct? The only thing missing really is the specific damage, other than that and the paint job, the helmets are largely the same? I've seen something about a helmet having more flare at the bottom but I can't recall which it was or if it was just a trick of the camera angles.

asokhelmet.jpg
 
Im no expert, but it looks like your chest plates are ESB (missing the extra dent on the right side)
Im not quite sure about your shoulders though per the camera angle and lighting. The ESB should have a very distinctive and detailed huge dent right on the top of onw shoulder whereas the RotJ has more but smaller dents. The RotJ should have a dent / scar also right at the edge of the shoulder so I think its ESB specific.
Also the RotJ back has 2 dents in it.
 
Last edited:
Im sure to buy accurate RoTJ armor in the future, I just needed some reassurance, lol

Rafal, I swear I saw that picture somewhere and then couldn't find it again, thinking it was just my imagination! I measured it on the inside of the armor plate and will probably cut it tomorrow. However, it doesn't exactly translate to my piece. The part where the center diamond goes is pretty slanted, so the 29mm measurement doesnt quite add up. Im sure it will be fine in the end, unless this is measured to fit a specific circuit board.
 

Attachments

  • circuittemplate.jpg
    circuittemplate.jpg
    114 KB · Views: 192
The armour you have is RS Propmasters, yes? I’ve got 2 sets and it matches yours identically. It looks like you have 2 right shoulder bells though. 1 is ROTJ and the other more ESBish. The left shoulder bell should not be dented at all.

RS don’t have the dent on the right chest plate.
 
Im not 100% sure of the mold but I bought it from woodman back in 2016. I tried finding the thread of his but I guess the cargo hold doesnt go back that far, I don't know. The armor came with three shoulders, two damaged and one not damaged.

The damage, or lack thereof, is why Im assuming it's a better fit for an ESB paint up.
 
It’s easily modified to add the missing damage. The chest plate, right shoulder and left knee are missing some details.

Here’s an example of it painted with added dents.
 

Attachments

  • B3EA930B-8DE4-4D38-BD56-7B8287BA0D2E.jpeg
    B3EA930B-8DE4-4D38-BD56-7B8287BA0D2E.jpeg
    3.8 MB · Views: 200
  • ECBB17A4-BA49-4DF8-9453-4B4713FBE0D1.jpeg
    ECBB17A4-BA49-4DF8-9453-4B4713FBE0D1.jpeg
    2.8 MB · Views: 207
Im sure to buy accurate RoTJ armor in the future, I just needed some reassurance, lol

Rafal, I swear I saw that picture somewhere and then couldn't find it again, thinking it was just my imagination! I measured it on the inside of the armor plate and will probably cut it tomorrow. However, it doesn't exactly translate to my piece. The part where the center diamond goes is pretty slanted, so the 29mm measurement doesnt quite add up. Im sure it will be fine in the end, unless this is measured to fit a specific circuit board.

The slots are not parallel with the top edge of the armor, but lined up (at a 90 degree) with the vertical edge near the center diamond.
 
Im not 100% sure of the mold but I bought it from woodman back in 2016. I tried finding the thread of his but I guess the cargo hold doesnt go back that far, I don't know. The armor came with three shoulders, two damaged and one not damaged.

The damage, or lack thereof, is why Im assuming it's a better fit for an ESB paint up.

The missing damage can be added by carefully applying heat to soften up the pastic and then forming it.

Knowing nothing about painting, though, I myself would think that trying the process on "test" armor might not be the worst idea, depending on whats your previous painting experience.
 
The slots are not parallel with the top edge of the armor, but lined up (at a 90 degree) with the vertical edge near the center diamond.

Ah, I see it now, it's just that it doesn't quite feel right. That's what I get for confusing myself too much, I swear I'm like a monkey sometimes and end up deviating too much from the original plan. I'll re-draw the new angles.

I'll try my heat gun on the armor this weekend, I'm sure it will work out :cautious:. It will have to, I need to buy wookiee braids and boots still!

I'm confident in my painting abilities, it's only that I'll be going against the grain with the color choices. I have a lot of vallejo and reaper miniature paints already on hand. I can't justify spending another $100 on more paints when Im sure I can mix up something close.
 
Ah, I see it now, it's just that it doesn't quite feel right. That's what I get for confusing myself too much, I swear I'm like a monkey sometimes and end up deviating too much from the original plan. I'll re-draw the new angles.

I'll try my heat gun on the armor this weekend, I'm sure it will work out :cautious:. It will have to, I need to buy wookiee braids and boots still!

I'm confident in my painting abilities, it's only that I'll be going against the grain with the color choices. I have a lot of vallejo and reaper miniature paints already on hand. I can't justify spending another $100 on more paints when Im sure I can mix up something close.

DON’T use a heat gun. It’ll completely warp the armour. I tried it using a heat gun and almost completely ruined the shoulder. Just put a flame from a cigarette or candle lighter under the area you wish to affect. That way you can do more focused modifications.
 
1. There appears to be a dent on his right plate, a big metallic circle, just under the center diamond. Is this a trick of the light?

full.png



2. And then...this. It doesn't look like there are any dents on his right plate at all.

full.jpg



3. And now here it appears there are two dents in his right plate. Is it all the lighting or the way the paint is layered?
full.jpg
 
Those are not all the same suit. The “Hero” Suit is at the bottom. 2 dents in left plate and 1 dent in right plate. The picture in the middle and top are stunt suits and are missing the dent, pretty sure they’re what became the ROTJ SE suit.
 
1. There appears to be a dent on his right plate, a big metallic circle, just under the center diamond. Is this a trick of the light?

View attachment 188100


2. And then...this. It doesn't look like there are any dents on his right plate at all.

View attachment 188101


3. And now here it appears there are two dents in his right plate. Is it all the lighting or the way the paint is layered?
View attachment 188102
In some of the version he definately has a physical dent in the right plate, as can be seen in the sail barge "socializing" scenes. I think it depends what version you go for. Bobamaker sells his RotJ plates with one dent in the right plate I think.
It might be a good idea to check his site to see the differences between the Empire and Jedi versions.

In the end you need to decide what version it will be though.
 
Yeah, that seems to be the difficult part. I'm trying to go with the hero suit but I guess my eyes aren't trained enough to spot all the differences, despite all the reference material available.

I melted a dent in the right plate, it looks ok for now. I might try to smooth it down later after I add the dents to the knee and shoulder.
 
This thread is more than 3 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top