possible helmet material

dung0beetle

Active Hunter
I found this wastebasket:

http://www.sterilite.com/Category.html?Section=Household&ProductCategory=56#

I'm gonna try it for the bucket. It will need to be cut to height and diameter, but I think it would make a strong, light, and flexible base for a helmet. I am thinking that it wouldn't need to be re-curved to the correct shape.

I have seen them at that Wal-something store and they have a slight grainy finish, but looks like it would hold paint without much difficulty. It costs $9 something at the store where I am.

just a thought...
It would at least match the trash can armor people are making.
 

tubachris85x

Well-Known Hunter
One thing about using plastic trash bins is that after its cut, you'll NEVER be able to shape it to what you want. To date, there has never been a gluie that I have used that will even adhear to it. I just want to let you know ahead if time. Im sure that there are some bins that may be able to contradict the above, but I just want to save you the trouble. You should also look into other materials as well that will have the same lightweight and flexible properties. Good luck!

-tubachris
 

Southern hunter

Active Hunter
I found this wastebasket:

http://www.sterilite.com/Category.html?Section=Household&ProductCategory=56#

I'm gonna try it for the bucket. It will need to be cut to height and diameter, but I think it would make a strong, light, and flexible base for a helmet. I am thinking that it wouldn't need to be re-curved to the correct shape.

I have seen them at that Wal-something store and they have a slight grainy finish, but looks like it would hold paint without much difficulty. It costs $9 something at the store where I am.

just a thought...
It would at least match the trash can armor people are making.


I had the same idea after reading about the trash can Fetts. I was only going to use the domed lid part of the trash can for the dome of the helmet and build the cheeks and mandibles out of either For Sale signs. You may want to check out SD68's thread on a scratch built helmet. I think the Sterilite material may stick to For Sale signs or Sintra IF you sand the gluing surface first. I haven't tried it, but from my experience, if you sand something and rough up the surface, paint, primer or glue will stick. I'm very eager to know how this goes for you, so plz keep us posted. :)
 

drokkul

Active Hunter
if you sand something and rough up the surface, paint, primer or glue will stick.

Yeah...you would think that wouldn't you. But I can first hand attest to glue not wanting to stick to the Sterilite trashcans.

Smooth surface, rough surface, I even went as far on one piece to make gouges with a dremel, but to no avail.

And I used all kinds of stuff, CA glue, Goop, multiple epoxies, Gorilla Glue etc, etc.

I think those trashcans are made out of Teflon...or maybe even tuffstuffnium:lol:
 

GCNgamer128

Sr Hunter
Trash Cans are recommended for armour, not helmets. Helmets as said before, require glue, and like Drokkul said, glue does not work :)

However if you make armour, I recommend using industrial strength velcro, that holds to the plastic very well.
 

dung0beetle

Active Hunter
One thing about using plastic trash bins is that after its cut, you'll NEVER be able to shape it to what you want. To date, there has never been a gluie that I have used that will even adhear to it. I just want to let you know ahead if time. Im sure that there are some bins that may be able to contradict the above, but I just want to save you the trouble. You should also look into other materials as well that will have the same lightweight and flexible properties. Good luck!

-tubachris

I used to work for sterilite, it can be reshaped with a 19v heat gun, smaller ones don't get hot enough. to "glue" the pieces together, just shave a 1.5mm piece, heat the 2 edges with a heat gun, and use a woodburner with a "spoon" tip to melt the shaving in between the 2 pieces--kind of like using a soldering iron for electronics. I have made some replica weapons this way. It takes alot of practice, but once you get the hang of the process, it goes quickly, and there is not much cleanup needed.

I will post a tutorial of my helmet as soon as I can get started. I don't see it getting done soon though, because I am currently home-schooling my kids.

Also, to keep the pieces from distorting from the heat, oil them up with mineral oil or lubricating grease.
 
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Southern hunter

Active Hunter
to "glue" the pieces together, just shave a 1.5mm piece, heat the 2 edges with a heat gun, and use a woodburner with a "spoon" tip to melt the shaving in between the 2 pieces--kind of like using a soldering iron for electronics. I have made some replica weapons this way. It takes alot of practice, but once you get the hang of the process, it goes quickly, and there is not much cleanup needed.

I will post a tutorial of my helmet as soon as I can get started. I don't see it getting done soon though, because I am currently home-schooling my kids.

Also, to keep the pieces from distorting from the heat, oil them up with mineral oil or lubricating grease.

I would really like some more info on how to "glue" two pieces together using your method. Please post safety precautions as well. I'm always interested in new materials, techniques and ideas. :)
 
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