You have seem to amaze me everytime I view this thread! Pretty soon your going to be the new standard for Infamous level 2 with the MOST screen accurate parts on one kit!
Ord Mantell's ESB build
- Thread starter Ord Mantell
- Start date
deadFox
Well-Known Hunter
Ord Mantell
Well-Known Hunter
Thanks. I prefer Insanity level.
Ord Mantell
Well-Known Hunter
wild
Ord Mantell
Well-Known Hunter
Now for some bad news about the piezo gas lighter greeblie
We actually haven't found the right one yet. Not a single pic of the found part so far seen on the internet demonstrates a significant feature on the original that we know is there.
I noticed it a couple years ago but didn't know what to make of it at the time. I'm speaking about this:
see that rectangular depression around the dental files area?
I have a feeling it's this little rectangular sunken depression that caused all the fan sculpts, including Fettpride's sculpts, to mistakenly interpret the white panels as raised. Now we know the white panels are simply painted on. But that little rectangle really is there, not because anything is raised, but because that spot is sunken in. And it's on all the Prepros and ESB.
My original thought was it was a cutout. For whatever reason they cut the plastic out in that spot and created a slot of reinforced material to mount the dental files. But when I discussed it with ConvergenceProp , he rightly pointed out the edges would need to be the thickness of the plastic itself, but as it was, they were too thin. The plastic is almost certainly thicker and would cause a deeper depressed area. He offered a different theory, that the rectangular depression is caused by paint layers. At first I didn't think that made sense but he did an experiment that demonstrated exactly how it would work and it looked spot on. However... boba87fett was able to take a look for us to settle the issue and it turns out we were both wrong.
The answer is, the depression is actually molded into the plastic itself.
My only explanation for this so far is it must be a spot for a logo. Like those thin metal logo stickers popular back in the day. If anyone has better suggestions let's hear it. But either way, the rectangular depression is in the plastic itself. Meaning, it comes out of the package that way.
The real found part should have a depression in that area. Probably with some kind of logo.
Which means of course, we haven't seen the actual version used on the costumes yet. These are all the ones I've seen so far on the internet that we've all been trying to get our hands on:
If there are others than these, please feel free to share your images. But these clearly do not have any logo or little rectangle depression on the handle. So the prospect of finding the correct version just got harder. But in a way it got easier. There is now a significant feature to look for that should lead someone to the right one. Oh, and also the plastic is apparently black. So there's that, too.
There is good news, though. The model ConvergenceProp is currently refining has this feature added to it. RafalFett 's version does now as well! Both of these will be the best thing we can get for the time being. Really outstanding models from both of them. A great contribution to the community. Big thanks to both!
The hunt for this found part continues.
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Ord Mantell
Well-Known Hunter
Going to interrupt my focus on rebuilding the right gauntlet for a quick fix on the jetpack. I've wanted to do this from the day I got the jetpack in 2014. Replace the rocket. RafalFett kindly provided a model for me to 3D print and it is EXCELLENT. Highly accurate.
This cycle of small upgrades is ending soon. After I fix the right gauntlet I'm on to finishing the new helmet interior build and then on to bigger things. Events have transpired that will finally let me finish this build the right way.
This cycle of small upgrades is ending soon. After I fix the right gauntlet I'm on to finishing the new helmet interior build and then on to bigger things. Events have transpired that will finally let me finish this build the right way.
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Ord Mantell
Well-Known Hunter
At long last, I have finally been able to make my Clothears vest into swiss cheese now that I know the armor that will go on it. It's been a long, difficult wait.
Ord Mantell
Well-Known Hunter
It's certainly nerve-racking. I was sweating profusely when I relazed my first two holes were placed wrong and I had to readjust all my marks. The good news is even if you put a hole in the wrong spot, you can still adjust the armor placement by where you put the posts. So it's more forgiving than it might seem.
I have to say, there's not a more satisfying way to mount your armor. I've done magnets, velcro, pinbacks... this is way better. The people who made this costume were crazy geniuses. My appreciation for their ingenuity only deepens the more I learn how they did it.
Ord Mantell
Well-Known Hunter
Slave1Pirate117
Hunter
Looks so good!
Ord Mantell
Well-Known Hunter
Slave1Pirate117
Hunter
I'm curious, how did you know where to put the grommets? I have an arkady flight jacket that I need to do this to. My concern is getting the armor put on properly and if 1 grommet is off, one of the pieces will be crooked.
Ord Mantell
Well-Known Hunter
RS Props has an excellent video on youtube how to do it. I highly recommend that video. I essentially did the same thing, but with a different hole punch and setter. It also seems to be a close approximation to the way the screen-used vests were done. I will post my steps for doing this when I get a chance, but that RS Props video is already a full and clear explanation.
And don't worry if a hole is off. You can fix any issues by moving the post on the armor. In fact, that is key to getting the different vests with the different armor arrangements to look right. On every version of the costume, the armor and vest interact in unique ways and where the holes are in relation to the armor posts has everything to do with how each one looks unique.
And don't worry if a hole is off. You can fix any issues by moving the post on the armor. In fact, that is key to getting the different vests with the different armor arrangements to look right. On every version of the costume, the armor and vest interact in unique ways and where the holes are in relation to the armor posts has everything to do with how each one looks unique.
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Ord Mantell
Well-Known Hunter
My process for mounting the armor on the vest begins with using an extra set of armor with holes drilled in where the posts and grommet holes should mate under the armor.
Place this on some kind of form, either yourself with the help of a friend or on a mannequin of some kind.
Mark where the holes are, and voila. That's where you punch holes in your vest.
Then punch holes.
So how to get the post locations on the armor? Easy, use the same armor you used for the vest to mark the armor you will mount.
place the drilled armor on top.
Mark the holes.
That's where your posts go.
Initially I place them on with CA glue, but then you will still need to put the plastic cutouts on top to secure them better, and for that you can use more CA glue or what I think they used on the originals was sprue glue. Which is just the armor clippings melted in acetone and mixed to the consistency of glue. It's essentially liquid plastic that hardens in place like concrete. I'll take pics and show that part was well.
Place this on some kind of form, either yourself with the help of a friend or on a mannequin of some kind.
Mark where the holes are, and voila. That's where you punch holes in your vest.
Then punch holes.
So how to get the post locations on the armor? Easy, use the same armor you used for the vest to mark the armor you will mount.
place the drilled armor on top.
Mark the holes.
That's where your posts go.
Initially I place them on with CA glue, but then you will still need to put the plastic cutouts on top to secure them better, and for that you can use more CA glue or what I think they used on the originals was sprue glue. Which is just the armor clippings melted in acetone and mixed to the consistency of glue. It's essentially liquid plastic that hardens in place like concrete. I'll take pics and show that part was well.
Ord Mantell
Well-Known Hunter
Sure. I went with size #1 rolled rim grommets with spurs which have an ID of 13/32". The posts I used are M5, or 5mm, but could just as easily also be an imperial size like 3/16" or something in that range.
And now on to something more important:
BETTER ARMOR
This has been in the works for more than a year. The new standard has arrived.
This armor is a mix of lineage and photogrammetry. The collar, knees, shoulder and kidney are lineage. The chest and abs are photogrammetry of the actual RotJ SE armor. This armor is just stunning, especially on the Clothears soft parts.
I do want to make it clear: like on MinuteFett's restored ESB helmet, I do not make any money off the sales of any of this. I was involved with this out of the pure love of it and the desire to get better armor for all of us. For more info check MinuteFett's Instagram or his website.
promo video using my ESB build:
Ok. Finally. time to paint.
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AlphaCloneFett
Hunter
Time to throw away those FP armor plates! lol
