intwenothor's accurate ESB interior thread.

Look good! Love the color.
I believe the ESB helmet might have been made last. This is not fact but by studying the supertrooper invoices and one other source I believe it to be so.

Also the visor needs some curve at the bottom.
Keep it up.

Thanks Keegan, promising comments from you means a lot as you've an eye for this stuff. Your work on interior clips was partly a source of what I'm trying to do. You really nailed it on your Pp2 build. I'm sure I'd seen a video and kind of animatic of what you did with yours but I couldn't find it to link it but I'm sure I've seen it. Was it this board? Please link it as it was right on. I'm not wrong am I?
Thanks man. My clips aren't 100% but they were a learning experience. Sent you a pm with a very crappy video I made while half asleep. I forget which of my friends I made it for but it was not meant to be public lol.
Look good! Love the color.
I believe the ESB helmet might have been made last. This is not fact but by studying the supertrooper invoices and one other source I believe it to be so.

Also the visor needs some curve at the bottom.
Keep it up.

I think the same! I did these markings on the costumes progress sheet a while back:

Naming-Boba-Fett-Costume-Documentation-Progress-Report-01.jpg Boba-Fett-Costume-Documentation-Progress-Report-01.jpg

Suits 2-3-4 are in fact in no special order, but we know they were painted at Daydream Productions (named as Sandy suits, or as I call them - Sister suits) for promotional purposes only.

Andy, as always your research and work is great! Here's an image of the Pre-Pro #3 interior I compiled a while back:

PP3 Helmet Wiring.jpg

The naming of the components from the electronic board is credited to the MPPC folks (SingleSeat I think).
Thanks guys.

Yes Raf, it was singleseat that compiled a complete list. I'm unable to locate exact matches to his list especially as some parts are no longer made. I'll post up what I end up using alongside his complete accurate list when I'm done. My circuit board is completely extraneous as it will be taped up and not even seen!

Your theory on the helmet order is great to see but no more or less provable than mine but it's nice to see an alternative idea.
So, I'm pretty much done with this for now thanks is huge part to @kurtyboy who helped me out with a number of the parts. Thanks Kurtyboy...

It's mainly based on the PP3 board as several really good pictures of it exist but some differences have been made for parts in the ESB setup that can be seen and are clearly different. In every case I've tried to get as close to the look of the PP3 board as I could but in some cases it just wasn't going to be possible so I simply did the best I could.

1). The vero board is a modern board hence the white guideline 10 X 24. I did look for vintage ones but couldn't find one big enough or cost effective enough.
2). The blue slide switch is a modern Black Apem 25436NAH SPST painted blue.
3). 2 vintage RS electronics 1/2 W carbon film resistors 100 ohms (the big sausages).
4). 2 vintage RS electronics 1/4 W carbon film resistors 33K ohms (the little sausages).
5). 1 Zener diode (the black and silver thing.
6). 2 Fairchild Quad 2 input nand gates (the integrated circuits/chips) sat atop 2 integrated circuit sockets.
7). 2 Tantalum capacitors supplied by KB (the blue bubbles).
8). 1 modern 4AA long battery pack.
9). 1 soft shell vinyl battery snap supplied by KB.
10). 1 stip of rainbow wire. The PP3 wires are red, white, black and green whereas the ESB are these colours laid out in this order. Despite the photography the wire in between the red and black is brown and not grey as it appears. It was really important for me to get this right as this is really the main part that can be seen. Supplied by KB.
11). Clip supplied by KB.

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Thanks Darren. I've actually got quite a lot in the way of spares because the only way to get some of this stuff is to buy it on faith and see what it looks like and because most of the items come in numbers; I'm looking at 50 slightly wrong colour tantalum capacitors as I write. I asked some sellers for pictures of colours and it was clear they thought I was some sort of loon because the posted sale information clearly described the technical abilities of the parts; why the heck would anyone care what colour it was!!!!! That meant getting some stuff in the wrong colours or wrong sizes. The 11 parts you're looking at is actually the final representation of a lot of stuff.

What I do have spares of I freely offer to anyone that wants them if looking to build one of these themselves. I've a fair amount of capacitors, resistors, diodes, and a few sheets of vero board leftover. I won't be using them again and it's not worth the time an effort to do anything other than throw it away or give it away. I hate throwing things away. I have spares of parts 1,3,4,5, and 7 in the wrong colour.
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Update: I've received some new visor clips today. They look pretty awesome. I'm looking forward to trying them out and posting it up for you all to see soo. Need to do a little bit of extra sanding work and a bit of visor reshaping but I think these are going to work out.:)

What was this board used for on the real helmet? I've not familiarized myself with the guts of the screen used props. But I'm trying to get more educated on all things Fett.

What was this board used for on the real helmet? I've not familiarized myself with the guts of the screen used props. But I'm trying to get more educated on all things Fett.

For the rangefinder lights, more exactly the 2 blinking red LEDs and the 3 GoW lights inside the perspex block; the micro switch (in the right upper ear) activated the whole show when the rangefinder was in the down position. The blue switch was there to turn on/off the power consumption.
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Yup but really just for show in my build. The JC27 kits impress me based on what I've seen and no need for me to do anything technical.
Unreal detail, the information you are able to provide to us through your research is invaluable. Thank you.
Here's a little update on visor installation. In my opinion it's best to have the visor area cut out and sanded properly before you start this. You might try before that's done but then your visor won't fit as well. You can buy pre made visors from a number of vendors but there wasn't a boba fett visor shop in 1978 so I won't be using one. My way is more fun too. When I first started looking at this I was thinking that those guys in 1978 were crazy and that from a design point of view the chicago screw method was better. Actually I've changed my mind and think this is probably one of the better methods to attach a visor. One of the great advantages is that the visor is a proper rigid fit rather than constantly fighting the wish of flexible visors to return to flat.

The first thing you'll need to do is buy some A4 sheets of dark grey smoked perspex. It'll likely come in packs of 5 or 10 but don't worry about that as you may not get it right first time and perspex is brittle and prone to snapping so your spares will come in handy (I went through 7 sheets before I was happy).

Then you'll need to take some measurements from your helmet to come up with a general visor shape and from that you'll make a template. Here's my template which should work for most helmets but will probably work best for those in the MR size and shape range.


This is an scan of a drawing of the outside of the template I cut out using my measurements. If you're thinking it looks a bit untidy and uneven then you're right but as the helmet is not symetrical and as you'll be trimming. sanding and tweaking after the initial cutting that really doesn't matter. The bottom section is deliberately left overlong and it shall remain so on the visor until the visor fitting is complete when it will then be trimmed to match the fit of the visor to the helmet.

Once you've done the cutting you'll end up with something like this:


This was actually an early one I didn't end up using. I hand cut mine which was more difficult but I suspect it was how it was done back then. The visor that is taped inside the PP2 is pretty untidy in a handcut kind of way. I could be wrong of course.

Avoid the temptation to remove the protective film if you can because if you remove it you run the risk of marking it when fitting it.

Now, this next method is really only going to be available to those of you working with fibreglass helmets. Those with resin lids that warp under heat won't be able to do this.
Use a heat gun (mine's a black and decker) to warm your visor so it becomes mildly flexible and then lay it on the OUTSIDE of your helmet and then apply a bit more heat unitl it starts to match the shape of the curve of the outside of the helmet. Let it cool slowly for a bit until it becomes slightly less flexible and then place it INSIDE your helmet and heat some more to match the inside curve. Once it's more or less where it needs to be place it in cold water to cool it quickly and set to shape. The story won't end here and there'll be lots of trimming and minor reheats to get a better fit but that's the essence of it.

Once you've got that good fit the visor will actully sit in place with minimal pressure. Tape your visor into place using gaffer tape. For the next phase you'll need some visor clips. It will be easier to do the bottom set first so start there. I used milliput to fix mine into place (i'll paint it a better colour match later). Enusre the screws are in place in the tabs but after you've fitted the tabs make sure there is no pressure on the screws (because that will push the tabs out of place). Once you've got a decent placement you'll need to LEAVE IT ALONE FOR 24 HOURS so it can cure properly. This is roughly where you'll end up (you can't tell from this picture but the visor is long at the bottom because it hasn't yet been trimmed).

Live the dream



Update: I'm no good with anything metal or technical so following some discussion with kurtyboy I turned to Sidewinder for these. There was an initial consultation in which I provided SAS with not very much material and he provided me a prototype set. Based on those I then sent SAS a drawing with some revisions and he made me a revised set. On arrival I could see they would be the ones. I made some minor tweaks to them before installation. If you want a set of clips Sidewinder is your man.
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Really well done. The heating method is how I shape my visors but I lay it on a cookie sheet and put it in the oven to heat up, but the results are just the same.
Really well done. The heating method is how I shape my visors but I lay it on a cookie sheet and put it in the oven to heat up, but the results are just the same.

Yeah, that would also work. Nice idea.

I finished laying the upper clips. Sidewinder supplied me with two littel aluminium square with threaed holes. In order to afix one I rolled two little milliput sausages and squeezed them either side of the screw hole to give a platform to the square to sit on and allow a little room underneath for the screw to drop into. The I built up around the square to lock it into place. Again 24 hours for curing is required. After that I trimmed all four screws to length and fitted the visor in.

It's difficult to get inside the helmet in such a way as to show exactly what's going on but this should give the idea. Note these upper screws are steel domed like the ESB ones whereas the bottom are brass cheese heads.

Here's the interior as it stands. Cradle is just laid in. Marked off the bottom of the visor for trimming now that it is fitted.

Your interior looks amazing so far! Your work and research have inspired me to follow a similar route. I was able to find 3 Joe Brown helmets and all have a slightly different liner. The closest liner to the original that i have looks just like the very first one you posted in your #1 post.
Anyways, the helmet comes with chin strapping that looks dare I say exact to the helmet strapping used in the screen used version. When i measure the strapping I get 17.5mm in width and it fits just perfect into the cradle slots, with a very slight pinch. I took a few photos to illustrate my babbling!

Also, I removed the original strapping support and will be using it as a template/measuring source when I construct a more accurate strapping set-up. I can provide measurements if anyone is interested.

Sorry to Hi-jack your thread Andy, keep up the good work!
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