esb rattlecan paint armor colors

[grenater]

hey guys Ive been looking around to see if there is any rattlecan color lists
to my surprise there were none so i decided to make one that i believe is
the most accurate to the original esb armor if you guys feel like there are
better colors please notify me so I may change it.also this is just the basic
colors so assuming you know were all the colors go i will be giving the
mainly used colors.


the chest and shoulder armor color is rustoleum spruce green
with any yellow color base coat as long as its bright and flat,
also same with silver (if its not dark enough you could
always wash it in black water and there's misting too.




few examples of silvers and yellows that work








the jetpack and gaunlets are krylon Italian olive also
rustoleum red satin cabernet for red details on pack





red:




shoulder bells and knees are john deere yellow
and metallic silver for base coat




any silver will work for details/base coat




and last but not least is the flat black for
misting any cheap can will do.

 

[KaiMartin]

Will you be doing any orange for the shoulders as well? Mixtures of yellow? Or yellow and orange?

 

[grenater]

ill eventually add a full color list once my armors finished, but for now the colors you see are the most used on the armor.
this is literally a list i through together in a couple of hours just to see what i would use for when my armors done.

 

[Darth Voorhees]

I posted a list somewhere when i did mine but i cant find it. It is however, very similar to yours. The rustoleum spruce green is pretty well known as the closest to the ESB color in a spraycan. For the shoulders and knees, I used krylon OSHA safety yellow and misted a touch of model master go mango orange for the more yellow shoulder and misted the orange more heavily for the darker orange. Now i know its not a dead on match, but i think it looks pretty good. Looks like your choices should work well as well

the italian olive is more the ROTJ helmet color. I use the spruce green on my jetpacks, but they are heavily weathered with black krylon primer, which changes the tones alot.

Check out the shoulder bells, knees, chest armor and jetpack on the 501st CRL i linked below, those are all my parts. Chest armor and jetpack are done with the spruce green, shoulders and knees done like mentioned above. they all have different levels of weathering which drastically change the shade of the base color. Please excuse the "drip streak" on one of the knees...that was a result of me trying to remove the webbing with the snap on it that was on the back of the knee...messed up the paint on the front...ugh. I need to repaint that.

501st Legion: Vader's Fist

 

[grenater]

I posted a list somewhere when i did mine but i cant find it. It is however, very similar to yours. The rustoleum spruce green is pretty well known as the closest to the ESB color in a spraycan. For the shoulders and knees, I used krylon OSHA safety yellow and misted a touch of model master go mango orange for the more yellow shoulder and misted the orange more heavily for the darker orange. Now i know its not a dead on match, but i think it looks pretty good. Looks like your choices should work well as well

the italian olive is more the ROTJ helmet color. I use the spruce green on my jetpacks, but they are heavily weathered with black krylon primer, which changes the tones alot.

Check out the shoulder bells, knees, chest armor and jetpack on the 501st CRL i linked below, those are all my parts. Chest armor and jetpack are done with the spruce green, shoulders and knees done like mentioned above. they all have different levels of weathering which drastically change the shade of the base color. Please excuse the "drip streak" on one of the knees...that was a result of me trying to remove the webbing with the snap on it that was on the back of the knee...messed up the paint on the front...ugh. I need to repaint that.

501st Legion: Vader's Fist

What are you talking about it looks great! All of it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Darth Voorhees]

ha..well thank you :cheers

 

[Fett 4 Real]

You know the armor could use spruce as a base but with alot of weathering....

 

[bunicula]

DVH, what colors did you use for the knees and shoulders? kryo OSHA yellow and what was that MM color? mango orange? did I read that right?

 

[Darth Voorhees]

"go mango" is the name of the MM orange i used. Its a car color. I used to build Model cars, Mopars (dodge/plymouth) exclusively, its an actual muscle car color lol Keep in mind, both are weathered pretty heavily to dull down the brightness of the yellow.

Yea Dom it is weathered pretty heavy. Thats what i used for mine back in 2009, and i still have the same armor with the same paint. I actually want to weather my right chest plate more...but dont wanna mess it up so for now, im leaving it be since it looks good. they used it for the CRL so it cant look that bad lol. ...not that the 501st is always the most accurate or anything, but you know what i mean. lol One day im gonna grow a set and repaint my armor with airbrush colors.

 

[Fett 4 Real]

Right and left chest plates are VERY different....its almost like they used two sets of armor there.

 

[KaiMartin]

Hey Fett 4 Real you recommended bauhaus gold for the yellow damages on the armor correct?

 

[Fett 4 Real]

No, I did not...i recommended Bauhaus for the yellow knee and shoulders...its close but not right either.

The yellow on the armor is another color...and REALLY it should be hand painted on with a brush and you can get zinc chromate (yellow) for that.

 

[Darth Voorhees]

Hey Dom, what brand is the zinc chromate...I can't seem to find it :/

Right and left chest plates are VERY different....its almost like they used two sets of armor there.

Yes the right plate is much darker. In person mine is darker, but not enough. I want to try and get a mix in humbrols to get close to that color and then hopefully weather it to get it perfect. It's really hard to match because so many factors could be involved to get that final look. I'm determined to figure out a good combo to match it though!

 

[Fett 4 Real]

Hey Dom, what brand is the zinc chromate...I can't seem to find it :/



Yes the right plate is much darker. In person mine is darker, but not enough. I want to try and get a mix in humbrols to get close to that color and then hopefully weather it to get it perfect. It's really hard to match because so many factors could be involved to get that final look. I'm determined to figure out a good combo to match it though!

Model masters....

 

[bzb]

Thread... arise from the dead!

I'm going the rattle can route on my repaint. I picked up most of these at Lowes... but hesitated on the yellows. Valspar has a few new yellow/orange selections, so I purchased a can of each and will be experimenting with them all.

The two most intriguing:

Valspar Bright Yellow Satin has a slight orange tint to it already.

Valspar Carmel Honey Satin has a (obviously) honey amber color in it.

I also picked up "Valspar Dried Pepper" which is a kind of rusty bright orange. I'll be spraying these on some test pieces to see if I can get a match with these.

 

[5326Commcando]

Do not use any valspar paints if you plan additional layers. Additional layers peel due to the film that's left after the paint cures. However, if you give it a serious buffing with wire wool, you can negate, potentially, some of the peeling.

Sent from my LG-D851

 

[bzb]

Oh yikes, good info. Even issues with the clearcoat? Seems odd they'd sell clearcoat if there's a known issue with it sticking...

I'll run some tests on some ABS this week.

 

[Matty Matt]

I've used Valspar rattlecans with no problem. But it's always a good idea to test things.

 

[Mullreel]

Always remember with any paint that temperature, humidity and air flow and other factors always affect the paint. And the same factors may affect different brands slightly differently. It is always a good idea to test what you are using.

I have used the exact same paints at different times of year and gotten totally different results.

 

[bzb]

In woodworking, it's standard practice to "knock down" the paint layers each run, so I'll likely be doing the same on the armor. Besides... more weathering, right?

I painted a Fett bucket last year that came out really well... until I shot the dome. Used some old paint and it left "crackle" effect all over it. Insanely frustrating.

Here's the color comparison after the sticks dried.