ESB Boba Fett Build!!!

Small update. Just got my air brush kits in the mail. So excited to start playing with these! Worth the investment!
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Animefan helmet just got in! great quality and very sturdy! Really thick casting too. Spent all of last evening trimming the visor and adjusting the thickness of the mandibles for the visor installation. Very clean cast hardly needs any work if any! i have a shaky hand so I needed to fix a mistake with the dremel.
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I also ended up giving it a quick krylon primer and a metallic silver coat! Feels a bit rough so i think a smooth wet sanding is in order before we airbrush this beauty.
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Small update and small setback. I have the worlds crappiest printer. I cannot print a clean stencil for my damage. And I have family in town so I don't expect to get much done these next couple weeks. Do you all prefer to do all of you damage topically on top of all your main green red and black or do you all prefer the layering with masking fluid method?
 
I have usually done a combination of both styles. The more I have used topical the better I like it. With an airbrush the topical method can yield some excellent results.

And I use masking fluid for both methods btw.
 
I used mostly topical on my ESB, but recently used some masking fluid for a dome and cheek color change. It worked well but I found the fluid didn't want to stay where I put it precisely, so I ended up detailing the damage with some topical use of a paint pen, just like before. So I guess I use a little of both methods.

I think with some practice the layering method would provide a beautiful look. It'll take some practice though. My next build, a slightly larger ESB in PVC sheet, will get this treatment. I also plan to buy and use an airbrush for that build.
 
I was sold on how good topical can look after I held a Spideyfett painted helmet in my hands. His topical work looked so precise and real I couldn't believe it. I doubt I will ever even be able to do 50% as good as he does but it proved to me how incredible it can be.

Best advice is to experiment with both and learn as you do. Experience is the best teacher.
 
I did a mix between topical and layered with my PP2 helmet. Topical is very nice and wayy easier to do than layered but layered is a good way to do damage because of the depth that you get between layers IMO.

Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560
 
Animefan helmet just got in! great quality and very sturdy! Really thick casting too. Spent all of last evening trimming the visor and adjusting the thickness of the mandibles for the visor installation. Very clean cast hardly needs any work if any! i have a shaky hand so I needed to fix a mistake with the dremel.
View attachment 106289
I also ended up giving it a quick krylon primer and a metallic silver coat! Feels a bit rough so i think a smooth wet sanding is in order before we airbrush this beauty.
View attachment 106291

I love your living room setup


Sent from my iPhone
 
What brand of paint pens do you use?

Honestly quite a variety. I used Testors aged concrete and weathered black for a lot of it (came in a 3 pen set for military models) and then a variety of red, silver, grey and yellow ones from local art and craft stores for armor damage. A lot of the greys are acrylic which can be hard to use over shiny paint, or certain clear coats. It doesn't want to lay down but wants to puddle up into drops. Anyway silver is almost always oil based which works ok, I use larger tipped pens for large areas and fine tip ones for details and outlines. I've found that if you want to clear coat your damage, you have to redo the silver after as the clear coat tends to dull down the silver sheen.

SchurmanFETT94 keep up the good work!
 
Honestly quite a variety. I used Testors aged concrete and weathered black for a lot of it (came in a 3 pen set for military models) and then a variety of red, silver, grey and yellow ones from local art and craft stores for armor damage. A lot of the greys are acrylic which can be hard to use over shiny paint, or certain clear coats. It doesn't want to lay down but wants to puddle up into drops. Anyway silver is almost always oil based which works ok, I use larger tipped pens for large areas and fine tip ones for details and outlines. I've found that if you want to clear coat your damage, you have to redo the silver after as the clear coat tends to dull down the silver sheen.

SchurmanFETT94 keep up the good work!

Thanks for the info... I only do layered but have been wanting to give topical a try since most people say it's a little easier


Sent from my iPhone
 
small UPDATE
Decided to go after a mostly topical method of painting. After seeing Superjedi's method I felt inspired.
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Also I am very confused. I bought this black 33 matt paint a while ago but when i painted it on the helmet it came off glossy? WTF? I guess I should have tested it on a plastic spoon. Just ordered some satin matt black 33 from humbrol to be sure. Just lightly sanded down the black paint for when ever the paint gets in.
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