Cruzer gauntlet hinge tutorial---pic intense!


Well-Known Hunter
Here's a tutorial from start to finish to assemble the gauntlets from kit form. I know I should have posted this a long time ago, but I finally found the time, so here it is. Thanks.

Here's what I would do in these steps:
  1. Clean up all of the parts (flamethrower, flamethrower cap, flamethrower nozzles, whipcord, hose barb and flare nut, hose attachment, and missile) with an exacto knife, emory board, files, etc.
  2. Sand down the really tough spots (mostly on the flamethrower).
  3. Place a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface (i.e. the floor) and sand flat the back of the flamethrower cap.
  4. Glue the flamethrower cap onto the flamethrower. I use only CA glue, but any type of superglue or epoxy would work.
  5. Drill out the holes for the pushbuttons on the flamethrower with a 9/32" drill bit.
  6. Drill out the holes for the flamethrower nozzles on the flamethrower with a 3/8" drill bit.
  7. Predrill the hole for the hose barb attachment on the whipcord with a 9/64" drill bit.
  8. If you are using a Dark-Side aluminum whipcord dart, drill out the hole for the dart on whipcord with a 21/64" drill bit.
  9. Do any necessary spot filling with Bondo, Evercoat, spot putty, etc.
  10. Finish sand and all of the parts with 220 grit.
  11. Primer all of the parts with a spray-can primer. I prefer Krylon grey. If you let it dry overnight, you'll get better sanding results. 24 hours is even better.
  12. Finish sand with some 320 grit, then maybe 400 grit. Some people suggest 600 grit for the final sanding before Rn'B, but personally I've never used higher than 400. Wet-sanding also make a difference.
While you are waiting for the primer to dry on all of the parts:
  1. Finish trim the front and back curvatures of all four shells with a Dremel and a 60 Grit Sanding Band (Dremel part #408).
  2. On the left top shell, drill out the hole for the chrome Halo_1 LED housing with a 5/16" drill bit.
  3. On the left top shell, drill and clean out the oblong hole for the slider switch with a Dremel and Multipurpose Cutting Bit (Dremel part #561).
  4. On the left top shell, drill out the holes for the missile with an 11/64" drill bit.
  5. On the right top shell, drill out the holes for the mini-toggle switches with a 3/16" or 13/64" drill bit.
  6. On the right top shell, drill out the holes for the 4 darts with a 5/32" drill bit.
  7. On the right top shell, drill out the holes for the 2 mini-darts with a 1/8" drill bit.
At this point I would recommend:
  1. One at a time, hold in place all of the attachment parts and drilling out the holes in the shells for the set screws with an 11/64" drill bit. You already did this for the missile in Step #4 above. There are 2 set screws for each part.
  2. Once those holes are drilled, you can hold the parts in place again and mark for the predrill holes.
  3. Predrill with a 3/32" drill bit.
Once that's done:
  1. Follow the pictoral tutorial steps to cut out the recessed areas for the exposed hinges and to bevel the edges.
  2. Do any necessary spot filling with Bondo, Evercoat, spot putty, etc.
  3. Lightly finish sand all four shells with 320 grit. I say lightly because they're already pretty smooth. Be careful not to sand away the line detail in the front of the right top shell.
  4. Lightly primer and let dry overnight.
  5. Finish sand.
  6. Attach the exposed hinge following the pictoral tutorial.
  7. Attach the hidden hinge and pin closing system following the pictorial tutorial.
  8. Rn'B or paint.


I use a flat file to make the 45 degree(roughly) taper in pic #5.

I cut a channel in the fiberglass with the cutoff wheel only when the resin is too thick for the desired 1/16"-3/32" lip. Most times, a channel is not necessary.

I prefer to finish trim/drill, primer, and finish sand the shells before I attach the hinge, however, it could be done before or after. The only reason I'm not drilling out the various holes is because they aren't my gauntlets, otherwise, I'd do that also before primering.

I use Super-T CA glue (green label) on the hinges themselves because it has a higher viscosity and I don't have to worry about the glue dripping. I try not to apply it close to the links, and I hold the hinge in place until it dries (45-60 seconds).

I then seal around the hinge edges/holes filling any gaps between the hinge and shells with the Special-T glue (yellow label). I'm careful not to let the glue run into the hinge links. Then I use the NCF Quick after I apply the Special-T to quickly cure and set everything. I don't recommend using the NCF Quick when initially setting the hinge with Super-T because it doesn't allow any time for repositioning because of its instant curing properties.

After the small exposed hinge is affixed, I applied heat mainly to the bottom shell to realign the edges. I then held them in the position I wanted and ran them under cool water in a sink to maintain the shape. If I had just let them air dry, they could start going back into their original unrealigned position. If after you have the hinge/pin side affixed there is still a lot of tension on the pin, I'd recommend heating up both sides significantly, placing the pin in and letting them cool with the pin installed. This should decrease the amount of tension that may be on the pin.

I'd recommend cutting off one link length from each of the hinge/pin closure lengths that came with the kits. I did that for the two pictured here and it made affixing the hinges a lot easier. It looks like I cut the hinges too long.

All the pics are of the left gauntlet because it is the more difficult in my opinion. The steps for the right gauntlet are exactly the same and is actually probably easier to assemble. I'd recommend starting with the right gauntlet since it's the easier of the two, and then tackle the left gauntlet.

Let me know if there are any questions.(y)











































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Well-Known Hunter
That's because the pics are in English! Here, let me fix them...ok should be good now!:lol:
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Active Hunter
About the glue, special t ca, (green,orange label) which one you uses and for what? can i use it for snap bottons? hinges? fiberglass,sintra...and where i can buy it?
Great tutorial with pictures


Well-Known Hunter
I use the Super-T for attaching snaps to armor. I use all of the CA glues on all my styrene builds, wood, metal, leather...I use it for everything. It's basically super glue on steroids.

I don't know if you have a local supplier because of your location. You can give them a call to find out. Here's their website:
If you can't find someone locally, I can pick some up for you and ship it with your other stuff.

Jango 5204

Active Hunter
Those gauntlets look nice. (y) The underside looks good and thick, just like the backplates. I used mine this past winter to go sledding. :lol:


Well-Known Hunter
you make that look so easy...i ended up woth more CA glue on me than the hinges! got it done prior to this tutorial...but it was not an easy


Well-Known Hunter
I'm sure the fact I've had practice assembling a little more than half a dozen gauntlets helps. I've gotten to the point where I hate getting CA glue on my fingers, so I make sure I keep a roll of those sectioned paper towels in the garage at all times...a lot of the time they're right there next to me when I'm pouring resin or working with CA glue. Plus, I think using the green label CA glue on the hinges, instead of the yellow label, helps a lot because it doesn't run like the yellow label stuff.(y)


Active Hunter

This tutorial "WORKS", I have to admit when you get a set of cruzer's guants, You are intimidated by them!(AT LEAST FOR ME):lol: But if you follow all his steps, TRUST ME you will get "PERFECTION"

Thanks Cruzer!:cheers

Tyrian Kell

New Hunter
:confused Where did you pick up the hinges? I saw long hinges at the Home Depot, but I was worried that if I cut them, the hinge pins would slide out. Any advice? Thanks!


Active Hunter
:confused Where did you pick up the hinges? I saw long hinges at the Home Depot, but I was worried that if I cut them, the hinge pins would slide out. Any advice? Thanks!

Me too. I'm always there or lows and have still not seen anything like them...any thoughts...Cruzer...? :D


Active Hunter
You can buy the longer ones. Yes, they are piano hinges unless Cruzer posts differently. I had to chop down the ones I got sent with the gauntlets and the pin did not fall out. Just buy them and cut them to size.


Well-Known Hunter
Hi guys. The hinge I use that is exposed from the outside is a special hinge I order from Dark-Side. It is very similar in sizing to that used on the original gauntlets, and it's pin size is smaller than the Home Depot (HD) or Lowes stuff. I usually order it in large quantities from Dark-Side, so I can hook you up as long as he can resuply me.

The hinge I use for the pin closure is standard piano hinge bought at Lowes, HD, or Ace Hardware. I prefer the brand Lowes carries because the pin is larger and seems to pull out easier. If you have to buy from HD, I'd recommend buying the Stanley brand, because it seems to be a better quality than their other brand. I've only purchased the Ace Hardware brand once and remember not being very happy with it in comparison to the brands carried by Lowes or HD.(y)


Jr Hunter
Are the sides of the gauntlets that do not have the hinges supposed to be flush or do they overlap allowing for velcro? I'm very confused with this step as I don't want to trim anything that I'm not supposed to. Please help.

Oh and what is the best method for sizing you gauntlets? Putting on over your flightsuit?