Crumdum's Boba Fett (RoTJ) Build Thread

Jetpack looks much better!

When i do my toespikes i ususally superglue them to the boot as well as screw them. E6000 like Mullreel mentioned is a good choice also. I also use metalset epoxy on the threads of the spikes themselves and also put a little on the base of the spike and i reattach. this way you want loos an individual spike..which i did a couple of times and then implemented this method..which i now haven't lost a spike since.

The collar i always have had bolted on, even when i did use magnets briefly. You may be able to open up the holes in the vest and/or the armor to help prevent a little of the pull. Unfortunately unless you have a metal harness, its very hard to completely avoid. Its happened to me alot less since i had the metal harness
 
Jetpack looks much better!

When i do my toespikes i ususally superglue them to the boot as well as screw them. E6000 like Mullreel mentioned is a good choice also. I also use metalset epoxy on the threads of the spikes themselves and also put a little on the base of the spike and i reattach. this way you want loos an individual spike..which i did a couple of times and then implemented this method..which i now haven't lost a spike since.

The collar i always have had bolted on, even when i did use magnets briefly. You may be able to open up the holes in the vest and/or the armor to help prevent a little of the pull. Unfortunately unless you have a metal harness, its very hard to completely avoid. Its happened to me alot less since i had the metal harness

Thanks Darth...I have one of Kcr7pr's light weight aluminum harnesses...but I think I am doing something wrong...should my shoulder straps be tighter? It's already pretty tight as is currently.
 
a lot of times it isn't the shoulders that need to be tight but lower strap that goes around your lower chest/upper stomach. The lower strap is what will keep things from sliding back over the shoulders.
 
Hey bud - I'll echo a few of the things already said:

1) I used JB weld in addition to screwing the toe spikes into the boots. I've had some issues with the spikes turning up. Some crazy glue has kept them stable. Doesn't need much.
2) Unfortunately I don't know how to fix your gauntlets. For such a small piece, you may have to rig/patch something together yourself as that area is already molded into the full gauntlet. As for the hoses, I'm curious which hoses you have that don't bend so easily. If they are basic plumbing hoses, they should be the same as mine. I have mine attached (key ring + carabiner) to an elastic under my sleeve so that there would not be any pulling.
3) Jetpack looks much better. I agree with what is said about the harness.
4) I would perhaps have a wider thong or loosen it slightly...mine is 1" wide, same as the knees, and is tight enough so that it doesn't dangle, but loose enough so I'm not too cheeky ;)

Glad to hear about the things that worked. It really does take some time to get comfortable with putting everything on, finding out how long you can troop (what works/doesn't), etc. I've been on about 10 troops and finally have just gotten used to things. You get comfortable and deal with things like walking distances (especially for parades). Heat and general jetpack discomfort will be normal.

I highly recommend that you suit up where you are going to troop. Or if it's not convenient, make sure that you walk unmasked and your blaster is concealed safely. Depending on where you are going, there are VERY strict laws about being in public with weapons or being masked. Just the other day I heard a story about a guy in a trooper costume standing outside a school with a toy blaster. Not the smartest idea....he got arrested. Police are generally pretty good about it - especially for cons, but don't give them a reason to pull you over in the first place. They have every right to confiscate expensive props if they look like they may be a threat. I don't mean to be a negative nancy, just my experience and what I've seen happen.

Good luck with your updates!
 
2) Cut the head off a sewing pin. Drill a small hole in each piece. Epoxy the pin in one side. Slot the pin in the other side and epoxy.
 
Okay another update.

Obviously there were issues with my first submission photos...I have resubmitted the following photos for approval. These were taken outside of the Steel City Comic Con yesterday.

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One note...the girth belt looks funny mainly because it was both not centered on my back (the guy helping me with my outfit didn't know to center it and I forgot to say something) and the straps had about 1.5 inches of slack in it. This was corrected later on where it looked like a champ.
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A couple of pointers for the new folks that are additional lessons learned that some have posted here before.

1) Tie down your wookie braids on your shoulder with some fishing line or even a twist tie through your flak vest. My braids kept slipping while at the con and it got to be quite annoying (See jawa photo above).

2) Insoles in MOW boots makes a WORLD of difference. Use them or be sorry.

3) I have a new fix for me that is unique to the MOW style flight suit. My pants kept slipping down gradually while walking. This sent my knee armor pieces lower than my knees and caused bagginess to appear near the shin tool area (It doesn't help I have really short legs too). I plan to use 4 buttons sewn between the pants and the top flight suit to keep the pants EXACTLY where they should be. One of the 501st guys there who has the MOW suit said he literally sewed the pants to the jacket once fitted...this is a choice as well of course.

4) Magnets along the border of the neck armor was quite effective at keeping the neck piece off my throat making it a lot more comfortable for me when at the con. I don't know if 5 magnets like I used was overkill, but it most definitely worked.

5) I am still having problems with my hoses on my gauntlet. I strapped them on via a velcro strap under my arm but movement kept popping them out. I am thinking about going to a quick disconnect method using a quick disconnect key chain and a short bit of elastic for some stretching flexibility.

6) Following DeathProof's advice the police did not try to arrest me because I put most of my armor on at that parking lot of the con.

7) I am still using the magnet method for my armor pieces...but I I will also add a small piece of velcro for the center diamond. I have two magnets (one of the top and bottom of the diamond) on the diamond but the top one popped off twice while walking around which forced me to constantly check my chest armor to make sure it didn't FALL off. Every other piece of armor I have is very secure with 4 or 5 magnet points holding it in place.

I'll update again after hearing if I am finally approved.
 
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I always assume the person helping me suit up may not know the costume unless they tell me know it because that way next time it'll go smoother or myself if i'm helping a fellow trooper suit up and i don't know the costume well i'll ask questions while helping
 
Okay thanks to the blurriness of my photos I had to resubmit again with some minor costume changes. The changes I had to make are not visible, but they affected the gauntlet hoses and how high my pants are. I have the MOW two piece suit and had to sew buttons on the front and back to keep the pants from constantly sliding down.

I'll post more submission photos or an update if I finally make it in this time.

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I think you may need to redo your knee straps - they are indistinguishable from your flightsuit.

Your belt pouches are pretty white when they are supposed to be a shade of tan.

Could be your pictures, but much of your costume looks almost completely unweathered.
Just looking at a couple spots specifically, the shoulder bells and knees are very yellow without any hint of being dirty.
The flightsuit overall doesn't look like there is much weathering, maybe a bit around the ankles is all I could really spot.
The gaunts are really shiny, almost purplish, and could probably be knocked down a bit.

Best of luck!
 
I was approved a while ago but I wanted to tell people how I fixed my nagging gauntlet hose issue. Some people suggested that I utilize sticking the hoses in water to heat them up. I actually did something similar, but didn't use water. I took a heat gun to the hoses and heated the length of the hoses. I went over the entire hose area two times. The first time it got a good bunch of the curve out, the second my hoses wanted to be straight as an arrow. Worked great.
 
Looking really good, but another tip if you don't mind.
Get a chin cup to help keep your helmet straight on you. In almost every pic you posted the helmet is a little bit cockeyed to some degree and it just looks funny on, not in a good way, and it throws the whole menacing look off.
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You look great others wise and congrats on your 501st approval!!

Lynn
 
Looks awesome! you might want to toss some weathering on the backside the front looks awesome but the back is almost perfectly clean!
 
Another interesting update.

My display was always dim...although honestly I didn't know any better. At the most recent con I trooped at I hung out with JC27 (who's a great guy and also in my garrison). I noticed his display was much brighter than mine was. I contacted Fettronics and they sent me a 4 battery case which upped my voltage from 4.5 to 6V. Attached to this post are two images taken of the same sequence screen. The dimmer one is the 3 battery case attached, the brighter is the 4 battery case. This is using just standard alkaline batteries. Do not use the 4 AA battery pack and rechargeable batteries...you will fry the board that way. It can barely handle 4 AA alkaline batteries...any more voltage (rechargeable batteries are about .2volts higher in voltage so 4X.2 = .8 more volts) will most likely fry the device.

Enjoy.

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