Counterweight's Second ROTJ Cardboard Scratch Build

[Counterweight]

The gauntlet needs to be close because the transmitter doesn't seem to have a long range. But I'm no technical genius myself so i can be wrong (i am only 15). Or that the helmet itself is blocking the signal. Still I'm just thinking out loud.

My gaunt is only a couple feet from from my head so I don't think it's a range issue. You're probably right about the helmet interfering with the range though. Maybe I can have the end attached to one of the holes in the Borden connector so it's exposed. I'll experiment with it

Thanks

 

[dv8r]

My gaunt is only a couple feet from from my head so I don't think it's a range issue. You're probably right about the helmet interfering with the range though. Maybe I can have the end attached to one of the holes in the Borden connector so it's exposed. I'll experiment with it

Thanks

Your helmet is cardboard or something similar, right? Can't be blocking an RF signal... I have a cold cast aluminum lid and my remote works fine at arm's length. Maybe change the battery in the remote? The circuit board I have for the servo also has a separated antenna for signal reception. If yours is similar, maybe placement away from other wiring or power sources will help -- I think it's far more likely something like that interfering than the wall of your helmet. Good luck, your build is looking great so far!

 

[Counterweight]

Your helmet is cardboard or something similar, right? Can't be blocking an RF signal... I have a cold cast aluminum lid and my remote works fine at arm's length. Maybe change the battery in the remote? The circuit board I have for the servo also has a separated antenna for signal reception. If yours is similar, maybe placement away from other wiring or power sources will help -- I think it's far more likely something like that interfering than the wall of your helmet. Good luck, your build is looking great so far!

Yeah it's just cardboard and bondo. I didn't even fiberglass it.
That's awesome I never even thought of that. My antenna wire is the yellow one that is running in between those two power sources. I'll just run it up to the dome to avoid interference and see how that works out

Thanks!

 

[Silverstalker]

Almost done it...extend the TX or RX wire in copper wire in the shape of a spring and run it down the helmet.. it will pick up the signal better

Also maybe reconsider the audio pic up... I put all that in my helmet and turns out I can hear everything anyway and it was way more bother having headphone etc.... as for padding the helmet get a construction workers helmet or a bicycle helmet and use head band hot glue it in, you can adjust it to your head size...pad the top of the helmet so it's not sitting to low and touching your shoulder armour...in combination with a head band it will stay on your head nice and snug

 

[Counterweight]

Almost done it...extend the TX or RX wire in copper wire in the shape of a spring and run it down the helmet.. it will pick up the signal better

Also maybe reconsider the audio pic up... I put all that in my helmet and turns out I can hear everything anyway and it was way more bother having headphone etc.... as for padding the helmet get a construction workers helmet or a bicycle helmet and use head band hot glue it in, you can adjust it to your head size...pad the top of the helmet so it's not sitting to low and touching your shoulder armour...in combination with a head band it will stay on your head nice and snug

You sir are a treasure trove of information. Lol thanks
So expose the end of the TX or RX and solder copper wire to it and coil it right?

Okay I'll bail on the audio pic up. I was just worried about being able to hear with the fans in. Looks like I'lol just do the voice amp then

Perfect thank you I was having trouble finding the best way to keep the bucket secure to my head.

Thank you!

 

[Silverstalker]

By all means try what you think will work for you but these are all things I have encountered (apart from the wireless range finder) and they have worked for me, yes a long wound copper coil ''should'' give you better range and signal pic up.

 

[Counterweight]

By all means try what you think will work for you but these are all things I have encountered (apart from the wireless range finder) and they have worked for me, yes a long wound copper coil ''should'' give you better range and signal pic up.

I trust your advice. Haven't been steered wrong yet

Okay I'll definitely try that and see if it helps. Thank you

 

[Counterweight]

Quick update:

I think I solved the problem of my stalk attachment method

I couldn't use the screw because it was too short so I decided to cut the head off of the screw

Now that the head is off I will screw it into the servo and JB weld the other end inside of the shaft of the extension

This pic should illustrate what I'm talking about

(It's not welded in this picture. Just placed inside as an example)

I'm thinking having the jb weld go the length of the shaft will give it much more strength to resist the torque of the motor.

It'll be done curing around 5 today so tonight I'll be doing my successful RF test (hopefully)

Wish me luck.

 

[Counterweight]

Slight problem:
I tested the servo again and even though I could hear the servo motor turning, the RF wasn't moving. Probably the screw wasn't tightened down enough.

So I made the executive decision to cut my losses and scrap the whole thing before I did any damage to my helmet.

Sad moment, but first I tore the RF stalk off and separated it so I could get the wires out

Pretty crappy looking work. I'm glad I'm redoing it honestly.

Had to repaint the bottom of the RF.

The silver lining though is I got my Perspex block in finally! And being separated from the RF stalk made it easier to install

It didn't quite come out in the picture, but the LED pretty much illuminates the whole block

I also installed a magnet just above the hole for the stalk attachment. I'm going to put its mate in the RF stalk, and that will help keep it upright. The servo has more than enough torque to break free the connection when I need to

Yes I'm aware the ear is ugly

New RF stalk!

I had to shave part of it off to fit snug in the ear, and I couldn't shave the inside because of the magnet placement. With the earcap on it looks fine though

From far away:

So here's what it looks like on the helmet. The magnet and earcap are enough to hold it in place, despite not having a shaft affixed to the ear

So I'm going to buy an actual servo shaft extender so this stupid thing will work.

Other than that I just need that stupid Borden connector to arrive and I'm DONE!

 

[Level3Fett]

Man, you are getting an education in the school of hard knocks!

 

[Counterweight]

Man, you are getting an education in the school of hard knocks!

Man... that's an understatement. This would be annoying even if I knew what I was doing. Lol problem is: everything i do is trial-and-error. I guess that's how I learn!

 

[Silverstalker]

Its all a learning curve and it makes you valuable to the Dented Helmet to help others avoid mistakes and point them in the right direction...

 

[Counterweight]

Its all a learning curve and it makes you valuable to the Dented Helmet to help others avoid mistakes and point them in the right direction...

That's why I keep posting all my mistakes. Hopefully my frustrations can save others major headaches.
Thank you

 

[Counterweight]

Anyone who knows:

I just got two of the UHF PL259 plug solder connectors like these

I need to build the flamethrower emitter rig. Does anyone have any ideas on something to use as the "flamethrower tubes" that attach to the connectors?

 

[Happywookie117]

Counterweight you are a legend reading through your thread has boosted my confidence to atleast try to build by first scratch helmet. So much respect for you and this fine artwork of yours and allthough you see minor imperfections it perfect to me! Keep it up man.

-Korie

Sent from my SM-G900I

 

[Counterweight]

Counterweight you are a legend reading through your thread has boosted my confidence to atleast try to build by first scratch helmet. So much respect for you and this fine artwork of yours and allthough you see minor imperfections it perfect to me! Keep it up man.

-Korie

Sent from my SM-G900I

Wow thanks that was really cool to read. Idk about legend but I'm glad my thread helped you.
Do it! Worst case scenario is it sucks and you'll do better the next time. That's what I did
Make sure you document every step too so we can see the process.
Good luck. Thanks again man

 

[Happywookie117]

Wow thanks that was really cool to read. Idk about legend but I'm glad my thread helped you.
Do it! Worst case scenario is it sucks and you'll do better the next time. That's what I did
Make sure you document every step too so we can see the process.
Good luck. Thanks again man

Too true. Ill be sure to document it i wish you luck for the rest of your build

Sent from my SM-G900I

 

[Counterweight]

Servo shaft came in!

I had to dremel out the ear hole and RF stalk hole to fit the diameter of the shaft, then put the shaft into the holes and measured how far it had to go out. Then I used to dremel to cut it to size/ smooth it

For lack of a better attachment method, I JB welded the stalk to the servo shaft. Good thing is, it's still removable by the screw inside the shaft.

Okay so the batteries are running out, so I need to buy AAAs and see how well it works with fresh batteries.

If need be I will look into extending the transmitter and receiver wires via Silverstalker.

I'm still waiting on that Borden connector... who knows when that will come in.

Hard hat suspension liner should be in within the next few days, so the helmet will be wearable

 

[Demmoc]

Looks good! I have never wanted to dive into the servo but you might have just inspired me. Is the servo powered the entire time? If so, does it "growl" when it's up or down?

 

[Counterweight]

Looks good! I have never wanted to dive into the servo but you might have just inspired me. Is the servo powered the entire time? If so, does it "growl" when it's up or down?

Not entirely sure what you mean by growl, but no it's not powered the whole time. I use the two switches on the right gauntlet to operate it. The rear switch is flipped until the stalk is all the way down, then the switch is flipped back to the off position. The front switch is then flipped to move the stalk back up, and then is also flipped back to its off position. Hope that answers your question. I can do another video if that didn't make sense.